i’m having all the symptoms of bad sway bar links except the clunking i’m hearing alot of squeaking with small clunking i already changed control arms, wheel hub, and tie rods it has to be the links right 😅
Thank you man you’re a lifesaver. saved me hours of pulling the timing cover back off. Btw it also works on a timing chain on a VW tsi. my intake cam was off 1 tooth and i did this and now it’s lines up perfectly
This is exactly the noise that I’m hearing on my Toyota Avalon ! Thank you for this video, now I know for sure that it’s my wheel bearing that’s making that rumbling noise. I mainly hear it at 30mph and then it goes away but you can hear that high pitch noise at higher speeds, like you were talking about. Once again, thank you 👍🏼
Great Question. If you are comfortable with repairs it is very doable. I haven't used this on car press in 10+ years except for some specialized rear Toyota truck bearings. Even those can be done without a press using some creativity. I love the on car press tool. If you can get the cv axle out, the tool will work. And if you can remove the axle with touching any alignment changing fasteners, no alignment changes will happen from getting the shaft out or back in 😃
@@EasyFixShaun I am comfortable with doing repairs, I have never done a press in bearing before. I am used to doing the bearing hub assembly which makes it a much easier process. I am certain I could get the cv axle out without messing with the alignment. I would be doing it on a 2004 Toyota Avalon on the passenger front.
I replace two times the same bearings in one week. I don't know why they get bad in couple days. I ll get the complete part in a yonke Yard today 😂😂 I go too the shop to putt the bearings in the press machine. That's crazy. A losses time and money plus days on my work. 😂😂
Sorry to hear that. I hope you can get it all sorted out. I have had one do that early on to me also. I pressed the bearing incorrectly. Years and years of bearings later i made this video to help. Sorry you are having trouble let me know how it goes on the press 😀
Weird. It would be a good question of what happened here. Im not sure whats going on but i will spitball some ideas for you, maybe it helps get you going the right direction... If the parts and application and sizing is all correct, no parts are damaged, the only answer would be incorrect install of the parts. It does happen occasionally. We all make mistakes. Usually pressing on the wrong portion of the bearings will still work, but in some cases it will destroy the bearing immediately. And in some cases it will cause premature failure. 🤷
Uh oh! Better make them standard and mandatory on every vehicle... oh wait, you have the solution for us to stay super duper safe!!! Thank you soooooo much
This is clearly sarcastic but like... why? To my knowledge he's not selling these things, there's no specific brand shouted out or link in his bio or description. What's your issue with it?
@@alex1701waller so your issue is... It's too safe? Is that seriously your argument? You'd like to NOT know if you're being poisoned? Car makers have a conflict of interest, if you are being poisoned they'd rather you not know. The free market won't fix that because car manufacturers by definition have a conflict of interest because of their position. The cost of doing it en masse is basically zero, and the cost of not doing it is potentially very high. This is like, basic economics.
Well we wouldn't know, and that's the problem. It would be less than $5 per car at an industrial level to add them to all cars at scale, and there isn't really a good reason not to. The concern isn't somebody dropping dead from carbon monoxide, but rather oxygen deprivation making driving dangerous and making you more likely to get into a crash.
@r.pizzamonkey7379 I won't be getting one, and I'm not a fan of the govt telling car makers how to.make. safer cars. I think I'm not in favor of this being mandated. I am in favor of folks bringing this to peoples attention, but also, some measure of risk should be attached to any claim like this. My wife wrecked her car because a spider got into it and crawled across her leg. We could mandate spider detection and elimination, or pest control for cars, but what would the risk profile be for that?..
I had two uncles working in a garage and they nearly died together from running the vehicle too long. Garage doors were open but it wasn't enough for some reason. They passed out and my aunt just happened to check on them at that time and called 911. Otherwise they probably wouldn't have made it.
It's probably fine and low PPM on the open road. But there might be some edge cases worth monitoring like home garages, parking garages, rush hour traffic, hot/cold days with engine running etc...
@@dgmangold that's a silly comparison though. Spiders are pretty readily detectable, just ask your wife's legs. We know the risk on that isn't very high, because it doesn't happen very often. And you're not a fan of the government telling car manufacturers how to make safer cars? Would you like to get rid of seat belts? Corporations won't do anything in the public's interest unless the government makes them, regulation works.
Hey Shaun, Im a new subscriber to your channel. A little background of my vehicle, I was side swiped on my my rear bumper panel and the wheelbearing was also out, it started to make a loud noise. Car was dropped off to get it fixed, a new bearing installed and now the noise disappear. However, 3 weeks into driving the vehicle again, I started to hear noise from my passenger side, started making a noise on every bump it encounters... my question is do you think 10 years powertrain warranty will replace bad struts, bushing, sway bar links, shock absorbers or any other things that causes it to make a noise? Also got this brand new 2023 kia soul last year and the car only has less than 15k miles within 2 years of ownership. Is there any way I can send you a quick video to determine why causing the passenger side suspension to make noise it makes everytime I go over a small bump or big ones?? Your kind thoughts would be much appreciated.
Hey man! No problem, post a youtube video on your channel and let me know when you did and I will gladly check it out. The warranty question should go to the dealer. Depends on your warranty length and what is covered. If it's under warranty those components would be covered most likely. In the mean time also check out my other superior sway bar link video and try the hand shake test on links and bushings. The shake and sway test also helps point towards links and bushings if you can't get them to make noise by hand. 😃 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0S8JBe_jn6g.html
@@danp7463 Bolt-on are much faster and easier as long as there are no corrosion problems. Subaru's Rear bearings with corrosion are brutal. There is a video I made about the hub shocker tool for those if you need it 😃
A friend of my son just brought his car over to my home garage. Had a suspicion that this is what the issue was. Just like you said it made a hell of a lot of noise. Good video and right to the point!
Great video but I'm 99% certain you don't need to take the bearing apart because the bearing press kit allows you to flip the plate around and press on only the outer race since the plate has a lip. Edit: but you should take the bearing apart so you can pack it with more grease since it doesn't have enough from the factory
Correct! Great tip. Most Press-in style wheel bearings are sealed version and do not come apart. Subaru bearings are exactly the same concept of pressing in with one small difference. They fall apart because they are an unsealed version of press in bearings.
dang 2003 is different, I was pretty excited to see the whole assembly as a unit...but 05 is somehow different than 03. Anyway, on to more pressing matters..... yea, yea, pun intended !
On-car press in wheel bearing video that doesn't change alignment angles- very pressing matter 😂😃 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P5bwlKKpusk.html
No problem. If your tire is bald look for loose worn or broken suspension components like bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints. Anything that will throw the alignment off. If the tire is bald on both outside edges it could be low pressure, so always a good idea to check that too. Let me know what you find 😃
@@EasyFixShaun what about CV axel and front axel boots that are split? Would that cause tire to go bald? I had that fixed but not sure that is the problem They told me the tie rod boot is a little torn but not bad....
@@mimi7914 Your Cv-Axle boots won't cause tire wear either. But a loose tie rod end could cause worn tires. If your inner tie rod end has a split boot moisture and debris could be promoting wear on that joint making it loose. That is where I would start, by shake and checking all steering and suspension components that effect the alignment. So basically all the control arms bushings and ball joints and struts and steering tie rod end inner and outer. I would check all that stuff front and rear 😃
I have driven my Audi s4 163,700 miles and one of the front bearings is making this sound. I described it like a propeller engine plane in my footwell lol. Thank you for the helpful tips
Great description! Make sure you do the shake and spin test at all wheels. I have had many I thought were drivers front and turned out the passenger front was bad or even a rear bearing! Bearing noise travels like crazy! 🎯
Hello, just stumbled upon this video. I am facing similar issue and sound in my CLA 250 2016. Only thing is same sound happens only when I’m braking and its repetitive. Was at mechanic which saw the damaged link rod and suggested change. He checked breaks and they were good to the eye. Is it possible the link rod makes that sound while braking? I have sound - video.
Hi! Your sound doesn't sound like a textbook loose sway bar clunk from links or bushings. Those should still be checked though for play. You can try the hand shake test in the video. It sounds as though you have a loose pad or caliper or bracket or pulsation rotor moving the caliper around during breaking. That could cause sound like that under braking only. Could be a loose wheel bearing causing this also by allowing those parts to move around. I would do a complete check of all steering suspension brake and wheel components to loose for worn damaged broken parts and repeat until the culprit is found. You have a weird noise symptom but will make sense once found. It happens. Track it down best you can and I hope that helps give ideas 😀
Anyone know if I can replace on my own on a 2017 Buick encore ? Will I need the wheel bearing kit bolt in or the hub kind? And how much should a mecha charge me for one ?
Hi, you have Press-in style front bearings and Bolt-in style rears. Cost will vary. Front will be a more cost because of press in style but generally last longer. Google says 4 hours labor in general on a press in bearing. 2 hours labor on a bolt in bearing. You could call around and try to get labor rates or quotes for the job in your area. Labor rates are different everywhere 😃
Thank you! It will work for an unlimited amount of teeth in either direction for you. I just think generally speaking 1 or 2 teeth is a safe amount on most motors. More than that, piston to valve contact can happen. I tested it on the particular motor I was testing and 4 teeth off I made contact. So you just need to be careful 😃
Thats my preferred method also! I use a saws all usually. I wanted to try and save this one because it wasn't rusted too bad and only a year old. It was still stubborn 😂
Good job brother very well articulated video put together I have 47 years wrenching and wrenching on cars Michigan with the rust can be a nightmare thanks again for making it a cut dry understandable video for many people to understand😊
So I have a question. Been trying to figure out this problem with this vehicle. No wheel bearings have play or make any noise, I even used a stethoscope. It has this constant sound in the front similar to bad wheel bearings, what could it be?
If the wheel bearings are good something else in the driveline that is spinning is them most likely cause. What year, make, model, drivetrain vehicle do you have?
That sucks. Sometimes the fasteners weirdly loosen up and make noise Like a bad link. Check to make the nuts are still tight. If they are loose, you can just tighten them up and the problem is usually solved! What brand parts did you use?
It is pure preference really. I don't do it because the factories don't do it. They all come apart with no evidence of lubrication. Dry as popcorn. You can do it if you want to. Neither way is amateur. I just try to stick to what manufactures do if possible as a foundation, then deviate from there, if needed. I have never needed to lubricate a bearing. They do go in harder, but that is the point of a press fit or "interference fit" part. You don't want it to spin once inserted and operational during its entire lifetime. Quality bearings last a decade+ and 100k+ miles. For reference I have never seen one spin lubricated or not, so I think both methods are ok 😃
So I get this noise on my D/F side but I just recently replaced the wheel bearing and I’m still getting the noise so is there any other methods to diagnose the problem
Sorry you are having trouble. This happens quite frequently so you aren't alone! Usually the worst bearing will mask any other bearings that are bad. Perform the Shake and Spin Test again all 4 Wheels and you will likely find another Loud or Loose wheel bearing problem. The worst wheel bearings will mask other bad bearings. 2 bad is quite common so stick with it and try to locate the second one if you can! Let me know how it goes please 😃
Great question. No damage should happen. The force is placed on the races primarily. The actual bearing rollers or balls are just along for the ride. The tool performs the same operation as a traditional press. But it is much easier to use because it can be used on the car. And, if no alignment bolts are adjusted or moved to get the axle out (essential to use this tool) the alignment won't be changed by the process as long as parts are all exact 😀
Sounds like a wheel bearing in front most likely to me! There is a test you should do next, I call it the "shake and spin" test. It is super helpful in pinpointing bad bearings so you don't replace the wrong ones. Sometimes it even finds a second bad bearing that couldn't be heard over the loudest one, and many times there is an additional loose bad wheel bearing thats about to fall off! Its my number one video on my channel if you need to look for it 😀
I was just curious, can the sensore be removed before disassembling ? I have a 2016 Crosstrek is the Outback different. Ive always removed these sensores. Just curious.
Yup you should always remove the sensors. I should have mentioned my reason behind not removing. Sorry about that. The only reason i don't remove them is the fastener breaks where I live from rust usually. Or the sensor has to be destroyed to remove it, also from rust jacking. So i usually risk it and leave it in. If I'm successful in not damaging it, I'm good to go. If i damage it, then i just replace it, and drill the bolt if it breaks, yada yada 😀. If you are doing a rear subaru wheel bearings i highly recommend you watch my two Hubshocker videos. It's a great tool and the best way i have found to do rear Subbie wheel bearings.
I tried to the spin test on my vehicle, and the tire on the suspected my wheel and it only goes a quarter turn before locking. Do I have to be nutuel to perform this test?
Sometimes. Make sure you are jacking on a level surface and block/chalk the wheels so your vehicle doesn't roll out move on you. Let me know goes it goes!
