Hi. I'm Stephen and welcome to Audio Nautica! Audio, as in Audio, and Nautica as in things Nautical. This channel is mostly about vintage audio, ships, and a few other things as well... Please subscribe! Support the channel at Patreon, www.patreon.com/audionautica You can contact me at audionautica21@gmail.com
Friend of mine had one of them in the early 80s, great sound even when he used to crank it right up. Would be interesting to see how those filter caps measure up after a bit of time.
No, we don't know who the other reviewer is. Actually there is only one other Accuphase C-202 review on RU-vid (13min 56sec) and it doesn't say that it colorizes the sound.
Yep - that's it. It's a great review. As I said, I'd already ordered mine from Japan when I saw this review. At 13:04 he said "it alters everything that goes through it". With 3 years of listening that has not been my experience, and as I said, a pre-amp should change nothing except for gain - unless one is particularly wanting to change the tone which is what tone controls are for.
I think what he meant to say there is that it gave him understanding what a great preamp should sound like (not the best choice of wording). But who knows...i left him a comment asking about it. Thank you.
Noticed an audible difference sharp spikes bring about. Have a felt backed, soundproofing carpet resting on additional cork sheet on a concrete floor at mine. Low frequency definition improves markedly with spikes allowed to dig into the concrete vs. just resting on circular, locating pads they came with. Not sure how to describe it, but when anchored, the lows seem deeper and hit harder, in a more point like fashion. Wonder if it would work at yours. Obviously, the spikes are shaped like a tip of a dart, rather than a cone and about an inch in length, so that the speakers are elevated above the carpet. Once levelled, a nut allows to lock the thread in place.
I'm sure it would be doable - I could just put knock in inserts on the bottom side and screw the spike in there. However I would suspect I might be dabbling with diminishing returns. If you watched carefully you would note that the room is seriously compromised as a listening room - speakers in the corners with one halfway in a doorway - there just isn't anywhere else. :-( I certainly have noticed a big difference with these stands in a) getting them up off the floor b) substantial decoupling from the floor at bass frequencies - it is much much better than it was with those big speakers sitting directly on a timber floor. Thanks for your comment!
@@audionautica6843 You're right, suspended timber behaves in a much more "lossy" and unpredictable manner. Even the speakers destined for the American market tend to have a higher Q & resonance frequency to compensate. In my previous setup, I have had some success with marble slabs, about 3inches tall and slightly larger than the bases of the speakers. I had placed thin strips of compliant rubber between the slabs the speakers and thicker ones between the floor and the slabs. You could feel the slabs vibrating, almost like a pendulum on spring, but transmission to the floor was much diminished. The slabs were around 40kG each, bit less, than the speakers.
Beautiful amps! I have ordered lots of things from Yahoo aleado through Jauce. But I never ordered expensive stuffs. Only cheap vintage Japanese turntables, accessories. Packaging was always bombproof. At my very last order the guys in Jauce warehouse broke a stylus of cartridge and never admitted their responsibility and fault, so I have stopped using them. Also DHL raised shipping prices crazy high in the last three years, so only rare and expensive hi-fi gears worth to buy from there. And yeah, the risk is always there... impossible to repair because someone already messed up inside. All my gears working now I bought from Japan, but required lots of hours refurbishing. Greetings from Hungary Sir! Enjoy your spectacular system!
Thanks for your comment, I really enjoyed reading it. This was my first purchase from aleado - possibly not the last, although I think my system is nearing completion (ha!). It was a nerve wracking experience, but seems to have turned out for the best. Yes - freight is a massive expense. AUD 700 just on freight for this amp.
Great build quality and sounds good even through my computer speakers. Interior components and layout looks very similar to my Luxman L-100 integrated and M2000 amps.
Please read up before posting, as these faults are all classical. The R7/8 that caused this fault, must be replaced by at least 1W 3k3 or it will blow again. The classical faults are different related to PCB rev.
Twin transformes... Mmmmm.... Thants very nice, great gear..!!! You din't mention how much it cost. Please don't forget to meka a video of the changing off voltage from 100v to 120v. (that would be amazing) Thank you.
Hey man thanks for all theses informations, I have a few questions though, ( I don't think I got everything right english is not my mother tongue). Also I know nothing about this hobby, just getting started. But basically I am currently playing music from my computer sending qobuz tracks to my audio gd R28 NOS going to my Arya stealth headphones, I am looking for a clean source, would that solution will work for a headphone set up? Also I am not sure i get how you connect all this, could my laptop send the information to the raspberry related by I2S to my dac/amp? Does that make sense? I wish you a good day, thanks again, bye!
You DAC looks quite interesting, and I see it has an I2S input. So to answer your question we need to think about where your music actually comes from, and how it gets into your ears. So what we have now is this: Internet (Qobuz)->laptop->USB->Dac->Headphones. So effectively all your laptop is doing is converting Qobuz from the internet into USB to get it into your DAC. The problem is that USB is a terrible interface for clock reliability. The best interface for a DAC for clocking perspective is I2S. Now I have to say firstly I think the single biggest thing that matters in musical enjoyment is that you are using Qobuz. Just changing from AAC or MP3 files to Lossless files and changing nothing else makes a HUGE difference. Hopefully you have already noticed that. So I don't think that you are going to get an astronomical improvement. But you will get an improvement by improving the digital signal going into your DAC so as to minimise jitter etc... You could do this by using the same hardware I am using, or there are other ways of doing it. I am using Tidal, not Qobuz. I am running Volumio on my Pi Raspberry board, and I am pretty sure it supports Qobuz instead. So what you would do is not use the laptop anymore, but use the streamer, and so what you would then have is this: Internet (Qobuz)->Steamer->I2c->DAC->Headphones Now the noisy USB interface is gone and you have a high quality I2C interface to your DAC. You would need to check the pinouts are the same from the streamer to the DAC!!!! I hope this is of help.
@@audionautica6843 First of all thanks for taking the time to awnser me, you got everything I try to do, so yes I know I2S is better than usb, the question is, how do I command the raspberry pi and make it play the music I want? with my pc? my phone? but then I have to use usb right? that's what I dont understand. Thanks again for your time (btw my usb on the R28 NOS has galvanic isolation)
@@mickouzz It will depend on the software you have on the raspberry pi. I have Volumio, and it has a Tidal/Qobuz connection. So I open up Tidal on my iPad, and tell it to connect to Volumio. So I control the pi rasberry through my iPad. But it has nothing to do with the signal chain - it just tells the pi rasberry what music to play.
@@audionautica6843 ok huge thanks, btw do you know if that works for PC ? I don't have an IPAD and it would be easier not getting my phone full of music :D (I use the offline dowloaded files from qobuz,)
@@audionautica6843 ok huge thanks. so your ipad is comanding the pi to play the music with bluetooth? or what ever usb connection? Do you think it works with windows? I would like not to use my phone (dont have an ipad) so I dont have to download all my qobuz offline library in to my phone which would be anoying. otherwise great news!
OOOOO-m-g!!!! These crown ce-1000/ce-2000 amps are some of THEE WORST amps to work on. I've seen a service manual and it's at LEAST an inch thick!!!! Pretty sure crown outsourced the design to china or japan. WAY to much smt in them! If you have a working model enjoy it while it lasts. If it breaks, sell it cheep to someone that can use it for parts and just buy a new amp, cuz none of them are worth even the most gifted techs time!!!!
@@audionautica6843 yo tengo 5 cl1 y es la misma placa pero menos transistores y lo mismo transistores buenos y sabra dios porque no funcionan una basura de crown
I am trying to recover mine, all is now working, except for when the treble is 100%, it sounds like voltage interference going through, and one resistor next to big capacitors R721 gets really hot and starts smoking. But if I bring treble to 80% all is good.. any ideas? Thanks
I build an 7C clone, etched my own circuit board, using 6 tubes 12AX7 and used regulated voltage. Deleted the tone controls and volume pot. I should make a video soon, i focused on the RIAA circuit and calculated for best curves and used best components. It sounds amazing, I'll post soon. Nice video by the way!
My 80s PIONEER amp. @110-watts per side @ 8-ohms. hisses a bit after 10-oclock it always has.. It's not a loud hiss but you can hear it a bit.. I don't think there's anything wrong with the circuit... You do great work...
Estoy buscando una SOLUCION a "instalar " un Radio Fm o receptor de frecuencias Fm (93.5 en mi país emisora deportiva y noticias) por internet a un Amplificador Fosi audio ZA3. Será que lo podré lograr con un Rasperry. ... y de paso será posible hacerle o existe un Control Remoto (como el de las TV) para controlar dicho Rasbperry, .. espero no estar pidiendo mucho, jeje
Having brought an amp that was released around the same time as the 3020 (Denon PMA350) as a gift to myself for geting my first proper paid job, I'm starting to feel old now these are referred to as "vintage" 😅
Yes, but that's commonly what these kits are called, and there's a few of them out there. It's the same with the Quad 405, there are various clone boards out there, but they won't sound like a 405 because the transformer was a fundamental part of how the 405 works (and sounds).
Cool video, I recognise those speakers & have been looking for a while to see them. My dad had a pair powered by the Rogers A75 Series 2 amp. He brought them as a whole new in '79. Sadly the speakers were drowned in a flood years back. But I have the amp which I seriously love. It's on my PC's audio out. (Which has a x570 MSI Gaming Plus main board.. I choose this due to audio DAC). The amp sounds great when the output is set to Ultimate power in Realtek software panel. Rare to see would be rarer still to see them on a vid together amp & speakers - Rogers MAJ5 +A75 Series 2. There was a sub bass amp and speakers also from that series/time for this setup. I think the crossover Amp was called XA75 & the subs L35b.
Quite a special amplifier in its own right, noise at unity 9nV/√Hz which is at par with most opamps, THD 0.001% @1kHz, warm presentation. Use OPA134 for servo opamp.
This is a great design to be honest. Being equally honest you could shave a lot of weight off by simply rectifying the wall current, running it through some common mode chokes and large value capacitors. This essentially converts the wall current into raw voltage for pushing some serious drivers. If you put enough MOSFETs in parallel you can drive quite the low ohms load without overheating too much. I know it's possible on 120vac @ 20 amps. It runs clean and quiet and will dim the lights if you push it hard enough. I think it would be some fun content if you reckon you can get your head around it.
Yeah - I think you're right. Got any suggestions for some nice clip on heatsinks???? It worked for 5 years the way it was, so I'm hoping it will be OK for a little while until I come up with something a little more elegant. I don't think higher powered rectifiers will work because the holes in the PCB will be too small for the leads.
Make the biggest heatsinks that will fit (looks like you have lots of room for taller sinks) out of sheet copper. Easy to cut and fold. Just tack them on with some thermal epoxy. Not the most elegant solution, but they are not going to be seen. Dan
"...USB as an interface is particularly noisy..." True only if you have a very poorly designed or defective DAC... It a good idea of using a Raspberry but a you're wasting money using the useless "digital interface" which your DAC is slave clock... Best choice is to use async USB and a good DAC. It's ok to use the DAC you have, Denafrips is not bad tough the IRIS DDC is totally useless... Using async USB renders completely useless all the stupid hardware pushed by peddlers too... forget about SPDIF / EAS / etc, linear power supplies, reclockers, etc pushed by people who don't have a clue about basic undergrad electrical engineering... For others, there are many high fidelity DACs like the SMSL D-6s / Topping E50 / Etc that cost less and offering very high fidelity. www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/smsl-d-6s-balanced-dac-review.48813/ www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/topping-e50-review-balanced-dac.26219/
I know someone who hooked a modified 405 up to Lowther speakers, even though a risky thing to do the sound was interesting, mids were like a decent valve amp, bass was very good but typical for Quad transistor amps the treble sounded like it was traveling through broken glass. Still an interesting experiment.
Excellent video and I appreciate your work on this lovely old amp. Also, your experience has been very useful in demonstrating how important it is to measure the filter caps out of the circuit before buying replacements. Could save me some money in the future!
I've transformed my 405, checkout my channel, I have videos on there, on upgrading the 405 & it has taken it to new level of performance, great video by the way👍
Good morning. I'm after one of these fantastic little amps to drive my two pairs of leak sandwich 600s speakers. Currently I'm driving them with a sansui AU 717 (what a amplifier) but she's trying to blow them up😊 no intergraded amplifier under 100 Watts can take on the sui 717. Anyway know anyone selling the leak stereo 70? Thanks in advance
Great video, very informative. I have one of these, had it for years and it sounds great, apart from transformer hum. Thinking of giving it a service so this is very, very useful. Thanks 👍
55:10 that's a great point. on some designs the heat sink and/or mounting screw connects electrically to the transistor's collector when the leg is not used (like the shown transistors were missing the middle legs), so a silicone pad or insulator plug wouldn't work... something to keep in mind..
Hi, I've just done a recap on one of these thanks to this video 👍 . My question is , is their an upgrade i can do to stop the loud pop when you first turn the amp on ? Thanks
I would recommend an external speaker protection circuit - as the protection in these is rudimentary, and quite frankly I wouldn't trust it to save my speakers. Most external protection circuits will also provide a start-up delay, which will deal with the pop.
Did you take into consideration that the Keithley lists the specs as 0.004% or -87dB THD, and 0.056% or -65dB THD + n for the unit? download.tek.com/document/SPEC-2015_R_June_2019.pdf
Hello is it possible to use a cr123a battery instead of the br2/3a? In my country the br2/3a is like 5x more expensive than the cr123a (both Panasonic). I could buy the br2/3a but if the other one is viable i would preffer to save thay money.
Can't see any reason why not - but it is up to you to check yourself and be happy it is suitable before you install it. Of course you'll need to check the size and you'll want the solder tabs on the end to solder into the board. Good luck!
@@audionautica6843 I hope there won't be any problems. However, none of the batteries comes with the solder tabs so yeah, I'll have to figure out what to do. Thank you sir.
