If you’re like me then you crave some authentic car content to watch, scouring RU-vid each evening looking for something interesting and engaging.
I don’t want to watch hip and trendy RU-vid “influencers” boast of their supercar acquisitions, and I don’t really need to see expert mechanics do their thing, I just want to enjoy something made by someone more normal. Someone more like myself perhaps?
So that’s why I started making videos - and here they are - a regular journal of car maintenance and restoration that pretty much anyone could do themselves, if only they took the first step and had a go.
I’m not hip or trendy (probably no one who uses that phrase is) and as you will see I’m definitely not a mechanic, but I’m giving it a go and having an enormous amount of fun doing so.
Please take a moment to subscribe, and join me on this journey of discovery and learning by commenting with your help, encouragement or questions - I promise I’ll reply to them all.
Wonder if anyone tested at which frequency the cambelt vibrates when tensioned correctly. (That's the method I've used to tension correctly on earlier Lotus'es. It's easy and it doesn't take more 'special tools' than a mobile phone 🙂)
@@MrToddgibbs pretty similar, mate ... thanks for asking, though. ... Got to say, that I think that in my case it truly is the starter. There is a light thunk when I do turn the key ... that said ... just watched a good little video (ClLTyu1pEmc) on starters and solenoids. Really useful ... and makes me think I have at least a bad solenoid, maybe a bad starter. That engine don't half get hot ... so it has *definitely* fucked with the starter ... but ... yeah ... I've had a right lovely fiddle with a couple of relays tonight. :). Anyway ... I will be doing a similar thing to your window vid soon with my passenger window. (I've got a LHD '78 manual) ... ... honestly ... I just want more places to drive to ... NW London (middlesex ...) is sooooooooooooo boring.
Nice bit of improvisation there Todd... If you have a press it helps removing parts off the motor spindle, rather than hammering it. I had similar issues with my cooling fans.
When you are looking for your no start problem when you turn the key and nothing happens... The next time it happens, try turning the key while at the same time pressing upwards on the key... If it starts this way, then the small shaft with the disk on it that sits behind the key barrel is worn out.. Look close on the stub with the notch at the disk end. You will see a worn out spot... This part is just pot metal and it wears out fast... New parts are available but they are different from yours... But they will still work. You will need to modify a new part to fit... Been there done that quite a few times... I have done the blower motor a few times too... Great find on the replacement motor I will be looking up that part here... I might have a couple 928s ;) or maybe a dozen or so lol great video thanks :)
Thanks for the comment - ah interesting, I will try that tomorrow. I have a replacement ignition switch, will that solve it, or is the issue elsewhere ?
@@MrToddgibbs You can try a new switch but I suspect your trouble is inside further... Once you have the pod off. Use a hack saw blade cut a small groove next to the locking pin, Just enough that your can pry it out with a sharp chisel. You can rotate the key barrel a few milimeters and redrill the lock pin hole that sometimes works for awhile. You must file off the alignment tab to do that... But really the piece that the key barrel turns on, if you look close it will have a flat spot worn in it. Once you get the barrel out just reach in with small pliers, it comes out easy..
The moment I heard "glass" when you started tapping I winced lol. Wire wheel brush is definitely awesome, curious if you used WD40 to remove the rust with the wire wheel before the hammerite. WD40 + wire wheel on iron or steel rust does WONDERS. Also, with everything you've done so far have you considered offering restoration services for other peoples' 928s? Seems like you know a LOT about it now!
Hi Alex, lol yes glass. It didn’t break but I thought better of it. I’ve never tried wd40 but I’m desperate to now!! Sounds great. I never thought about doing other peoples repairs, not sure I would have time! Thanks for watching :)
Ther's supposedly an early VW one (1980s Passat I think) that's close enough. I've tried a couple with not spectacular success. A ever, "Roger has them". Of course he does :)
I fitted the Passat one and it burned out after less than a year. Smoke in cabin under glovebox, a few minutes of panic 🫤 Sometime I'll remove it and see if water got in, or whether it was something else.
Ye I would have stripped that motor just to make sure it was dead in the water…… but well done on codging a VW motor to fit …..I’ve done similar too….. oh I shud dig out the other wing to balance the car up 😂😂😎👌🏽
What you do and have done in that little garage space, and DIY always amazes me. You are seldomly defeated. I’m a mechanic, and haven’t even gotten around to starting my 928 rebuild. You have educated me with your videos. I saved lots of them for the future… Great job! Can’t wait for more of the cosmetic rebuilds too. Fun.
Thanks for another great episode, your work is inspirational. I think you asked last episode whether you should drop the engine and paint the engine compartment. For what it’s worth, I think if you have the opportunity to do that, you should. Cheers!
Original colour! I think dark colours suit the compound curves at the rear and sharp creases in the front wings. The 928 that was on Wheeler Dealers looked great after a respray in Cocoa (that car ended up in Ireland)
Well done Todd. I had a likewise issue with the difference that all my components of the ignition were renewed. My problem turned out to be a problem with the distributor : rotor resistance did not measure a resistance. Rotor was brand-new and I had driven hardly 500km with the new one. So one good advice : do not take for granted the new parts cannot fail. Quality nowadays isn't the same as before
@@MrToddgibbs Todd, when you say that engine was running on 7 cilinders, how exactly did you notice this? I am asking this because my car sometimes starts difficult and the first hour of driving, engine seems to run like a tractor, so rough running and engine doesn’t idle smoothly, it vibrates a bit and during acceleration it holds back a bit. After 1 hour, problem is gone. Probably because engine and all parts have become warmed up and hot. Did you see anything unusual regarding the color of the faulty sparkplug?
Hi, I think someone on YT suggested it and then realised it was hesitating to rev and the sound was unbalanced (not smooth). Recently (like 2 weeks ago) I unplugged plug 1 and drove and instantly recognised the same feeling. Its lazy and sounds strange. It sounds like you are on 7 cylinders. I would not run the engine too much until you fix it you may get bore wash (where the fuel is washing away the lubricating oil and the piston heats up and scores the cylinder). To track it down start the engine and remove the plug lead from cylinder 1 while listening to the engine noise. If it changes you know that plug was firing. Replace the plug lead and do same for 2-8. If you remove a plug lead and hear no change you know this plug was not working... Once I worked out which plug wasnt firing I removed it and cleaned it up with a file. Then I reinstalled and ran again. Remove the plug and confirm it is still clean (no black soot). In my case the plug was faulty, which I identified by fitting a spare plug. Good luck - let me know if you find it (your could be distributor cap, rotor arm, plug lead or spark plug)
@@MrToddgibbs Hi Todd , I checked my spark plugs and they were all working I added some movies in my youtube channel and you can here the engine idle irregular with rattling sound of engine Also my vacuum should be much more higher than 400mBar, isn’t it?
@@MrToddgibbs I replaced the original fuse blade in my 911 with a classic retrofit one that has modern blade fuses. Not cheap but meant I stopped worrying about fuses being to blame for any electrical issues. Prob the same with this?
Well done in sorting the problem, but the ignition on without cooling may have started the problem you just fixed, those resistors will get hot I'm a two turn start after sitting for a while, then first pop after The brake light switch is on the Master cylinder, very simple connector, I needed to look at mine a while back but forget why now, from memory just spade connectors Green wire I have one dangling near alternator, no idea what it or goes Well done on 2500 followers, you obviously doing this well and I'm for one appreciating your work
I so appreciate your entire series Todd! When I have problems with my 1978 this is where I come to first. My latest is now a single electrical “snap” from somewhere in the engine compartment when I turn the key and the starter no longer turns over. Maybe a starter, or some far simpler issue. Who knows…
You're better using an old-fashioned test lamp with a filament bulb in it for these sort of things. Multimeters take such tiny amounts of current that they won't cause a significant voltage drop across any resistance in a circuit and you'll miss it. A bulb will.
Just got my White 928 back from the garage after having to fix the starter. Given you have a Pasha black and white interior i would go for a light colour, maybe an ivory pearlescant colour which means you don't need to take the engine out. Great progress and perseverance, you are nearing the end now. 👍👍👍
Hi Eamonn, I may redo the pasha, but I agree a ligher colour would look better - and I would like to stick to a porsche colour. Glad you have your car back :)
I was rooting for you once you renewed the resistors. It's good to see it running again. Your perseverance definitely paid off. Respect from a hot Taiwan.
Well done again. Brakes, pedal switch? As for the paint, original colour is always best imo but I don't know how practical that is to do. Keep up the good work as you're really winning.
Brilliant job of sleuthing the problem. The compounded issues with these 928s is that parts are old, the cars became inexpensive, and shade tree repairs were often applied. Getting the vehicle back to "as designed" configuration often cures these problems. Nicely done!
Those Hard lines from Porsche are INCREDIBLY EXPENSIVE...save them at all costs if possible. Some are NLA. The last time I checked the Long front Passenger side was over $700 US . Take your time and work them loose. Heat, flare wrench on the solid nut and "crows foot" on as long a ratchet as you can find and work them loose. Just did Transmission lines that were SOLID...wrap a towel in Solvent of choice and let them sit for a day or two. The Aluminum Hubs are fine raw.
@@MrToddgibbs Did you video making the bends and the process? the long lines are incredibly complex. Would be interesting to see how you managed it. TY
I always joke that whatever problem you have, somebody on youtube has your solution. So here I am, watching Todd Gibbs solving my problem for a jammed plunger in a fuel distributor in my 1979 porsche 928😂😂 thanks Todd!
Hi Todd. Have you wathched this video? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GHTSjoFD1vw.htmlfeature=shared They seem to know thier stuff on oils and they have a pretty convincing explaination to the flex plate & torque tube issue. Keep up the good work. 🎉
Agreed, exhaust is a little more refined. I’m going to modify the straight pipes a little …. Yes it’s getting full throttle. One time you can see it visibly accelerating slower, that’s because the Bowden cable is too tight and it’s stopping full throttle
I had an ‘82 with the 3spd auto as a daily driver for 10 years. If I floored the throttle and kept my foot to the floor it would hold a gear through to 6,000 rpm before changing up. However I found it more enjoyable to shift it like a tiptronic. Moving the shifter to 1st to start off it would hold 1st until I moved the shifter to 2nd.
I have done s similar adjustment process and come to the conclusion that the only way to get full rpm is to change the gears manually. Maybe thats how its supposed to be.
You seem to skip the part where you jammed the throttle peddle down and checked the cables, if the arm at the transmission is at its full travel there’s nothing left to give. If there’s still some play and no adjustment left you could put a knot in the cable under the hood.
Hey Gaz, yeah I filmed it but it’s hard to show under the car so I cut it. With pedal pushed fully down the cables are all tight…. I even over tightened it such that the throttle wouldn’t fully open. So I know it’s all adjusted ok now.
Nice episode Todd, sort of casino how far the rpm could go. You unleashed 25 extra horses between 4k rpm and 5k😊. Offtopic : is known why the cold start takes so many cranks? Our 928 had such an issue too and it turned out be a fullpressureregulator
I want those 25 :) I noticed while editing the video how differently it accelerates each time (I just plant my foot, nothing fancy). Sometimes it seems to really take its time, others it whips the needle round… Cold start. It always needs 2 turns of the key. Even if I crank it for ages on first key turn it won’t start (I’ll test that tomorrow just to be sure)
Todd, Took a break for 10 months from my '81 restoration. Going back to it next week. While you did not remove the handbrake cables from the rear hubs, I wonder if you had anyone refer you and sources on how to do that? As purchased the attachment from the cable to the parking brake shoe mechanism was broken so I have to remove the cables. Specific question is "is it possible to remove the metal sleeve that appears to be pressed in the hub (through which the cable travels)? Or maybe more appropriately - Must I remove that in order to fit a new cable? Many thanks for all the inspiration.
Hi Timothy, good to have you back! That is a good question, and one that stumped me. I never managed to get the handbrake cable away from either hub. From what I could see you need to undo the axel nut and pull off the piece with the wheel studs. That allows you to get at the end of the cable. When I searched on Rennlist (biggest 928 forum) it appeasr the rigid sleeve you are after is just pressed in, so should twist/wiggle out. Let me know how you get on! Instagram might be easier to chat...
It's looking Quite Nice ,,Very impressed with the Holes U Cut in for Speaker holes, How did u go about that chore ?Wow . It looks, factory. Also I have used super glue or Jet to strengthen cardboard, & Learned to use Backing soda as a filler ,to bulk up small voids or tears .Put it on location Dry & then wet with fresh glue to lock up white powder, It worked well for me. The leather Coloring went well ,as you built up the base color slowly, coming back to original appearance. Thanks for sharing a great Video
