Seriously awesome video. Thinkin about doing a 24 valve. Only diesel I ever had was a 6.0 psd. It’s nice to know there’s motors that run past 300k before they need significant work
Your right not to pull the head off.... the heat & cooling cycles destress the head & once pulled they tend to warp or twist, you can't detect it using a feeler gauge & straight edge. I have seen it show up a number of times when you surface the head. The block isn't as bad. The valve seats tend to crack too. What is the part number on your springs?
The 12 valve tappet covers are a good option for more crankcase breathing instead of going a billet cover. Cams with duration 188/220 or preferably less with greater lift than stock will help bottom end. power as well
As far as cams go, yes you can spend the $700 or so on one and it definitely will help with shifting the power up closer to the 3500-4k rpm, but you can still make an easy 800whp with the stock cam, it just loses a bit of duration over 3k rpm. Your head is a bigger overall restriction, but if egts aren’t an issue, keep head and can stock for a budget build. Maybe invest in a better flowing exhaust manifold for a bigger EGT drop on a budget compared to the potential $1000+ on camshaft/lifters
The rod bolts deform the rods because of the higher clamp load. Just checked a set yesterday and they deformed the rod by .0035” which will cause damage. Have them honed next time
I was just about to post a comment regarding this. Definitely have to have them honed with new hardware just like your main caps if you do studs. Pull those bearing caps with just the studs installed after some driving and I’d bet you’d see copper in 2 spots exactly opposite of each other on them bearings.
I had read somewhere that someone had tested coolant _pressure_ at different points on the block and it was noticeably higher at the rear of the head. And they were surmising that the high coolant pressure could be contributing to the 53 blocks breaking. Installing a bypass evened out the pressure and they were hoping that, combine with modding the water pump to reduce the pressure, made a 53 block live longer especially on a non stock engine. So I put one on mine. Cannot hurt other than lightening my wallet.
They 5-6 cylinders have a tendency to over heat so I dropped my thermostat 180 and they that brought the heat down and my fuel mileage did not change and that’s in 05 Dodge 3500 6 speed manual. My first truck was a 1992 single cab 8 ‘ bed 5 speed manual and when we went out west pulling a 25’ Road Ranger and we went everywhere and it was straight pipe coming out in front of rear tire and everybody knows how the 12 valve really talks and we had CB radio and when we blow past a semi he would always tell the drivers to roll down your window and listen to this Dodge with a little cummins . When I bought it I told the to turn the pump up 3/4 of a turn and he said that’s not enough so I had the wrench showed me how to turn it down a little. So when on flat ground but going up in the mountains and ard pull at the Royal Gorge and people behind me would turn head lights on and you talk about rolling coal so when we got to camp ground at the bottom of pikes Peak I turned it back down and when you do that you have adjust your idle and after that it did great and with the 5 speed and you could lug these motors but not the 24 valves . But when up a long hard grade you just watch you water temp it sets at 1/4 on gauge and when a long steep pull I would wait till gauge would get a hair past 12 o’clock I would drop a gear and the gauge would drop back down to 1/4 on gauge this 92 didn’t have a tack just a real temp gauge not like the in my 05 . Sorry for the ramble.
Is the reliability not there once you start to upgrade the engine to those power levels? Lets say I wanted it in a daily towing rig and I did all those mods to get me up to about 800hp will that engine reliably start up every single time I ask it to? I got detttered away from the cummins cause it seems some think the reliability is not there once the hp goes way up, im not an expert on cummins so not sure real world issues with these engines. Also at what point does mpg start to diminish with a high hp engine? Im assuming alot of it has to do with how the rig is driven.
i only want the coolant bypass to get rid of the metal heater core tube and mess ram designed. mine is almost rusted thru. as a plus it looks kinda cool.
Only thing i don't have is the rod bolts but my Quadzilla only fuels to 3700rpm anyway so i should be in good shape especially since I'm only around 450-500hp
If you guys read your comments? Will you be kind enough to tell me if the af house is vacuum or pressure from the turbo. I p pumped my dodge and now it seems like I don't have enough fuel or that my turbo isn't working properly. I also have about 18 degrees in my timing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Thanks for the video! I’m building a 24v p-pump Conversion as well. Is it a wise to go with the Hamilton towing cam since I’m going with 2 turbo’s? Or should I save my money and use my stock cam
Unless you build it yourself of course, 47rh/re are easy to build. Throw a billet input and output shaft in, accumulators, modify the valve body, Kevlar bands, and some extra clutch packs and you’d be surprised those minimal upgrades will handle the power short of launches and shifting with converter locked. Speaking of converter, that’d be the single most expensive item when it came to the trans. I spent about $2900 for my triple disk billet converter with a billet flex plate and arp crank bolts. Trans upgrade parts cost about as much as just the converter.
So I’ve got a 07 5.9 mega cab, and I’m trying to decide whether it would be better for me to 12V swap my Cummins or try to build what I have? But I’ve been told it would be cheaper to swap it and build the 12V
Depends on how far your trying to push it power wise I don’t personally own any common rail trucks built I’ve built them for guys, I’ve got a 98 12V as a fuck around truck and a 98.5 24v (vp44 not common rail) for a daily/towing, the 12V trucks if you build a lot of power will be a Smokey mess that’s just how it is my truck makes 1000 horse and 2,300 ft lbs last time I Dynoed it but it smokes all be it lightly just idling, the 24v VP44 and common rail trucks can smoke a lot but can also run fairly clean because of the customizable fueling based off boost PSI, price wise most common rail stuff is more expensive especially injectors over 12V P-pump injectors or even VP44 injectors. Never done a 12V swap on a common rail truck so depending on the price of doing a swap for possible electronic issues etc the price of the swap may outweigh the price saved on injectors etc.
Don't swap for 5.9 commomrail out for a 12v! The common rail makes more power, way easier, for way less! Not to mention the fact that you can tune it pretty much as much as your heart desires. You can detune a 1400 horsepower Commonrail Cummins to only make 500 on the lowest tune and 1400 on the highest tune. Not to mention the power from a Commonrail comes on way harder and faster than a 12v does.
Nice job you mentioned that it’s a 53 block I also have that in my truck,My motor has 250,000 on a 1999 Ram it has programmer, exhaust, fass system. If you could educate me on the 53 block a little more I guess so I’m not scared I know they’re not all created equal that being said is there anything that I can check, any and all help would be greatly appreciated thank you.
There’s really nothing to check, if it hasn’t cracked I wouldn’t worry about it. Even if it does crack its not a catastrophic failure, just limp it home and figure out next steps.
Thanks for the reply. I knew with stock head bolts and gasket 40 psi is pushing it. But didn’t know with stock head gasket with arp head studs you could get away with 90 psi. That’s crazy!
@@TruckMaster just make sure you get them popped to p pump pressure. Depending on the size of compounds will determine to go with a camshaft or not. The 188/220 will help spool the bigger chargers since you'll be at a static timing set. Best of luck. I'm from Michigan as well stationed at drum as a mechanic
You're going to atomize the fuel better and more efficient with them popped for the pump application you are using. Which is why injector company's such as ddp pdd etc pop them to that pressure when you order injectors. I've had both vp pressure injectors and ppump pressure injectors and it ran better and was way more snappy in the mid range with the correct pop pressure Injector for that pump. But to each their own.
They are. They've got thinner walls around the freeze plugs and water jackets than the 54 and 55 blocks, which makes them prone to cracking in those areas
@@Jhubes5.9 no. They are garbage blocks. Many more people have had their 53 block split in half than people who haven't. You do any sort of performance upgrade and you're asking for trouble.
@@ThatSilverSecondGen it’s no guarantee you’ll have a failure with a 53 block. Yes, there’s a higher risk of failure but it’s not inevitable. Of course I’d avoid one if I was doing a performance build but if I was buying or already owned one and keeping it mostly stock I wouldn’t be too concerned about it. If it’s made it 20+ years and 300k kms it’ll probably be fine lmao
@@Jhubes5.9 you just went back on everything you said. That's like saying "meth isn't that bad and you probably won't get addicted to it, but I wouldn't smoke it". They are shit and nobody keeps these trucks stock anymore. A 53 block is like a 47re. It can barely handle stock power and even the smallest performance mods put them in danger
