Bonsoir King 👑😀 I am interested by the LRP 32, but I have read in several different places that its carb is really bad 🤔🤔 any thoughts on that ? Merci Monsieur 😁👊
What a great looking buggy Kings ‼️ - I know you said she doesn’t have great fuel mileage. Any chance a straight/non conical header will help? Maybe not as much as you need it to for a formal race but, wanted to ask 🤷🏻♂️ Sounds like you have her running really well 🩷 Nice work and thanks for the vid
Thanks buddy. Definitely need to try a different pipe and venturi in search for more runtime. The power of this engine is awesome, maybe even a bit to much. Thanks for watching
Crazy! The last time I ran my gt, I used 16% and it was perfect, performance, temp,everything was perfect. Maybe there is a more noticable difference with a low quality engine but a good engine with a good carb will do great with low nitro. Looking forward to more dyno testing!
This is what you get when you take consistent engine temperature out of the equation. On the track it would be a different story. Regarding timing numbers i think 25% will have a bigger advantage with higher timing numbers and less advantage with lower numbers. But still an advantage in terms of temperature and performance. I will need to take everything to the track and start tuning and testing again.
Hi Kings Racing. Nice to see some else doing dyno on nitro engines. I built my own inertia dyno and tested some .21 offroad engines. I use simpledyno software. If you want, I can send you some pictures of my setup and dynocharts. Regards Kristian from Denmark
Hi Kristian , Nice to hear you have your own setup too. For comparing i have no use for your charts. I see you don't have anything on your channel. Ever thought about uploading some video's on your dyno? It would be great content. Appreciate the comment and you watching.
Awsome! I am not surprised by the run time.. and I think that a Onroad engine (GP) like your r21 will suck even more fuel. The bodyshell is looking great 😮
Thank you my friend. Will need to break in my r2105. Already looking forward to that. But first on the list is the break in of the rebuilded r5r so i can do some testing. Think i'm gonna order some more body's 😆
I knew it was only a matter of time until you slapped the 501 in a buggy :) . Sounds like she still has the 7mm venturi in her, next time just remove it all together ...your face will cramp from smiling lol. The top end vs a 7mm insert is insane. Only down side is as you found out is the tires, GT engines punish off road tires .I run on a golf course almost daily and I'm consistently tearing tires unless I'm wrapping the inserts w fishing line. My 501 lives in one buggy with a Ielasi 2185 Gtr pipe and shimmed to run 45% nitro on 16/45 gearing on badlands ,its absolutely bananas , no bs it pulls wheelies on the street at around 35mph...right when it comes on pipe real hard lol ,Great content my man!!!
You got predictive gifts lol Yes, still 7mm venturi. Sure it's crazy with none. Was actually thinking to go smaller and try to get some more runtime. Would love to race this engine. Sounds like your setup is bananas indeed. Appreciate the comment and you watching
@@kings-racing From all my testing the 2185 GTR pipe is king daddy ...she sticks out funny due to the manifold shape but wow does it perform . I speak for all of us when I say we will love to watch you race with the 501....maybe go up a tooth on the bell if the track is flowing enough to keep rpms down a tad thus increasing economy at least in theory . As long as she is on the pipe she will pull that gear is silly.
@@kawicepticon8866have you ever tried the Max Power 2094? One teeth on the clutchbell is a lot, but i could try one or two teeth smaller spur. Definitely need to try a different pipe and venturi in search for runtime. Thanks for your input👊
@@kings-racing Yep I have the 2094 and have used it with his short and long manifold, to be honest I like his 2164 more but with a 7mm restrictor installed I would still say the edge goes to the 2164 in more book, but the 2094 with a short GT manifold with a 9mm or lack of venturi will pull silly rpm . Remember if you will be using the 7mm venturi Id stick with the "long" GT manifolds since you only have so much potential air to ingest w the venturi, might as well make as much power as soon as possible. I have been testing a Modded Roma on a Max L Gt manifold w the Ielasi 2185 pipe and the pipe does amazing with bigger bore engines as well...sounds real cool too!.Picco 2046 W GT esq manifold is another weapon on the G501, I ran it with a 41032 and 9mm venturi and it was megaaaa, tons of mid range and still ballastic top end. Lastly , King Daddy pipe for all out power and rpm is a clean 9886 with the manifold best suited application and timing of the engine....but its a 2 chamber .
Very interesting !!! I know when I ran 30% nitro vs 20% nitro, there was a little difference in power... not enough for me to justify buying the more expensive 30%, but I did notice a difference for sure. Great test man !
I will need to do this test at the track. This is not a representative test. You can tune the engine to max performance on a dyno with any fuel. Very curious what the difference is than. Appreciate the comment and you watching.
Surprised by the results! Either fuels are not that important for max power where you can set the tune to kill or the engine timings or something too conservative. Thanks for sharing your testing
This is therefore not a representative test. On the dyno you can get maximum power of the engine with any fuel. I will need to this test at the track. Tune the engine on the track and than dyno it. I'm sure there is a difference and curious how much it is. And yes, timing numbers play a role in the difference. Appreciate the comment and you watching.
@@kings-racing my pleasure. Anything more technical about rc engines and setup you can ask me. The test is more representative of the engine so it's a good test in order to find what the engine likes or not, you changed head shims? I'm not familiar with the way you set the dyno plot, I'm used to rpm vs tq and HP.
@@kings-racing Been trying to understand more about our engines. I have a rb s5 I'm using as a test subject, tried more and less squish gap and now I'm increasing combustion chamber volume. What it does is burning more or less mix and that influences directly carburetor tune. When I ran tight squish the idle gap was 1mm and the lsn was in 3 turns from flush. The engine barely ran, now with more 0.3mm of gap it went back to normal flush needles. In your case I'd try more shims, OS are designed for tight gap that's why they are fuel efficient among others things.
Hmmm, looking at ways we dyno car engines maybe there is not enough resolution in your dyno setup. On cars we try to run the dyno at very high speed, eg geared up, so that there is a constant and long duration of load. Longer pull time and increased dyno speed/rpm will give you much higher resolution I think. Could you engineer an overdrive into the setup?
No problem buddy 👍 Glad to help and great that you can get the engine running again 🙂 Interesting dyno info, and it's gonna be interesting to see results after the track testing 👍
Thank you very much buddy. Really appreciate the effort. And excellent job on finding it. This probably was the only set available in the world. I'm very lucky that you found it and saved my engine. I will definitely need to tune the engine at track. The results between the different fuels can't be this similar. Thanks buddy👊
Yes, replace the rear bearing. Preferably to another brand. I suspect some bad Reds bearings went into engines and bearings of the same batch sold separately.. Hopefully this will solve your issue..
That is interesting, I agree. - I wonder if head shimming would change anything with the different fuels - Maybe as an additional test. Take one fuel type and change the shim stack a few times and see if it truly changes power out out We all appreciate the work that goes into these test. Thanks Kings 🩷
I definitely need to include more factors in the test. With tuning the engine on the dyno the results are quite similar. I will need to tune the engine at the track and than do a dyno test. The results than can't be this similar. On the 12% also try a different headshimstack and see if that makes a difference. Appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching 👊
What are the temps there? Also the fuel, is it castor oil or synthetic? Castor oil in the fuel helps. Depending on temp you would want TS3 cold and TS4 for hotter temps. The carb that's easiest to tune is CARB SET CG3 GEN1 3.5CC S SERIES BUGGY/GT (SKU ER210146). I would use a 8mm venturi to start, idle gap about 0.8-1.0mm and tune the bottom end needle to set idle rpm/mixture.
if it's not working properly, the carb or somewhere has an air leak, so I would pull it apart and inspect. Usually if something acts like it's defective, something is defective.
Thanks for the comment. You are right, something was defective. Check out the next video on the channel. It was the rear bearing. I suspect a batch of bad Reds bearings
Hoi, Jammer dat de motor onbetrouwbaar is, ik heb dezelfde motor in m`n serpent zitten, binnekort wil ik ook eens gaan testen daar. Rij je er vaker? ben nieuw op 1:8 buggy gebied
Hoi, ik vermoed dat er nogal wat motoren zijn met slechte lagers. Ik rijd regelmatig daar inderdaad. Misschien wel de leukste baan van Nederland. Wellicht dat we elkaar dan tegenkomen.
Great and interesting stuff, I do motorsport engines which get engine dynod, then rolling road. Always loved RC, great hobby and very educational regarding engines and chassis/suspension tuning
I have a first start video on my channel. After that it's two idle tanks, than i put it on the track. Very rich for the "figure eights" two tanks. After that dail it in a bit so i can run the track like in this vid at 2:00 minutes ( about 4-5 tanks). Than dail it in a bit more ( still pretty rich) and run to the point it has 1,5 to 2L through ( about half a gallon) After that the engine is broken in and ready for a race tune.
