@@loving-plumbing nice, thanks for the info. I watch a lot of RU-vid and it kills me that some of the not so good people have more views than the very best! Keep it up 👍
I have a question on the hot water outlet on top. I want to install an immersion heater but the 22mm copper pipe runs across the nut where the heater will be installed. Would it be okay to rise the pipe up about 6" to make room for the heater? or is there a reason why the 90deg bend is thigh to the top of the cylinder? A Great tutorial by the way
question, I'm thinking to use the jackoboard as well for my shower install that's coming up. What do you use to cut the board to size? (it looked so clean on yours) 😀
Thanks this is a really nicely done video. Small question is it better to do the flush or power flush before installing the new boiler or after. Just wondering if it is done before (using the old boiler to heat it up), the sediments in the pipes and radiators won’t go through the new boiler
Something to think about - I always thought a plate heat exchanger should be piped countercurrent Eg boiler flow top / boiler return bottom - system flow top system return bottom Just think of a combi plate heat exchanger - mcw and boiler return are together as are hot out and boiler flow If you leave it like that the flow to the system will be at the boiler return temperature ie 20 deg lower then you require - plus the temperature degradation loss To quote Andrew Millward - hope that helps 😂
I'm pretty sure it is piped that way. So each side is opposite. But the flow enters the bottom from the boiler. System flow leaves from the top. I don't believe it makes a huge difference which way round it is installed but could be wrong. Thanks
Didn’t watch till the end before making a comment 😮😂 Can remember a heat geek video on a commercial plant room in a school where they couldn’t get the rads to temperature and the plate was piped like yours Keep up the content good to see the experiences of others in the trade 👍
They have a reset button linked to the thermostat. If engaged it wont heat. If you have a range cooker that heats water the water my get too hot and reset the immersion if you have forgotten to switch it off
@@loving-plumbing So, if the flow from the boiler goes to the bottom of the plate heat exchanger, when it exits, it exits from the top? If yes, why? I’m just an apprentice 👍
@@magicalsounds7966 so it's opposite to each other. Flow in the bottom from the boiler so it heats up the return as it comes through on the other side. The two systems never actually mix. Only transfer heat.
To separate the potential problems, the old original system could cause a modern boiler. Too risky pressurising the existing system. So playing it safe really.
@@loving-plumbing I’d never pressurise an old system either…. But an open vented boiler may have been ok in this scenario….pump so low down….no pumping over issues..and the fact the old boiler lasted so long…testimant to quite a good clean system. But I get your point
If the cold feed gate valve is open, does that mean that cold water is going into the cylinder as you are working? Or did you run the shower to the extent that you used it to empty the cold tank and drop the level in the cylinder as well?
Hi, very useful video - thanks. Just a quick one. I have a gate valve between my cold water cylinder and the hot water, and also the second outlet for a pumped shower the same as this. In order to drain down as you suggest, does that result you essentially draining the cold water storage tank fully, and then the top of the HW cylinder will drain?
Do you need to strengthen the roof trusses if you put a tank in the attic? There must be a fair weight when full of water. I'm planning putting my thermal store in the attic. Thanks
great vid, if you were called to install a boiler but the customer was not willing to agree to power flush the system before hand , would you agree to the install ? even tho by default this would make the warranty invalid (I assume) and would you make note of this on the commisioning documents
No need to smear the threads with paste, think about the next guy/gal that has to change the immersion heater. Paste both sides of fibre washer and that’s it.
Lots of useful information, im thinking of jumping ship and start fitting these but wasn't too sure if the combis stood out from the competition lime the 200 does. Having watched this i might give the 050 combi a go. Many thanks
I wish all immersion heater changes went as easily as your demonstration!! Many time I have had to use heat to undo the immersion and a big hammer!! Draining is simple - switch off the top tank filler and run the bath hot tap till it stops. There might be a small amount of water to mop up with a vac. I disagree with using paste on a fibre washer for two reasons. A fibre washer is designed to expand if it gets any water on it so makes a watertight seal even if the immersion face is slightly damaged. Putting paste on both sides negates this ability and will make the immersion almost impossible to remove next time.
I have uses Hughes plastic pipe for heating for many years and do kike the push fit connectors which can be undone. But for under the floor the insulated Buteline does look better as pushing insulation along pipes is a pain!. I'll see if it is available at Plumbfix or Buildbase.(Derby)
Hi every problem you come across I have come across.Like you mentioned it’s all down to 1st fix and forward planning.Well done it’s looks great and you can’t rush a good job lol 👌
Think i would of tried to get a coat of paint on those walls beforehand. I know its not really your job to do it , but for a little extra work it would improve the look of your work.
