Hey great videos! Did you get oil pressure up first before starting? I’ve been told to remove rocker cover , glow plugs and fuel solenoid before first start
Thanks. I didn't do that myself. It wouldn't hurt to put a small amount of oil in each piston to add some lubricant to the walls when the pistons move for the first time, but that would be about it. The oil pressure drops to zero after a few days of not driving normally, and that's never an issue, so I don't see a problem with just letting the car do its thing.
I'll have a look for you, can you send me some pictures of the latch under your fuel cap and of your fuel cap? Also, if you can, move your question to the VY fuel cap video, it may help others as well.
Eventually child lock sensor ceases to work properly. Will lock you out and beep continuously. Cost a $1000 to replace circuit board. Do not buy, you will become a slave to this as nothing else fits in counter hole.
Amazing set of videos mate. Can't thank you enough. Watching these gave me a lot more confidence in trying for myself. Going to watch them one more time just to be sure! Thanks from NZ🤙👍
would it be wise to mount the exhaust manifold onto the head before installing the head? Doing this part tomorrow and just thinking through it. Is there any danger to having the exhaust mani already on it?
I don't think it would be an issue as long as you're 100% the manifold won't interfere with the amount the head is torqued (e.g. the manifold is resting on the block a bit and affects how much the head is pressed against the block). My vague recollection was that the manifold was very close to the block at points so check that. If you've not 100%, at least loosen the manifold so it can move and can't cause any issues.
Did you take the harmonic balancer off ,did you have to remove the main bolt and then put a puller on it ,you seemed to fast forward the bit that I came here to see
hi, see that pulley at 8:16 your tensing the belt with, does it have a spacer or washer or a bearing maybe between the "wheel" and the bracket . because my pulley seems to back up hard against the bracket and I cant see how the pulley can turn , I'm starting to think I'm missing something that goes behind the pulley wheel but in front of the bracket. what you think
The pulley is designed/built to provide the required spacing with the bracket. Here's a link that shows a pic of it, hope it answers your question:- www.allfourx4.com.au/Air-Conditioner-Idler-Pulley-suitable-for-Landcruiser-1FZFE-Hilux-Prado-1KZTE-88440-26090-88440-60050?gad=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwg4SpBhAKEiwAdyLwvHawDOjAxNym-VeFxQ06LXbg3oimQBFkEKnlgpl7YUbAnTLhFW0dJhoChvgQAvD_BwE
how did you decide what grade head gasket to buy? the replacement head I bought came with a gasket with 3 holes, but the old one I took off, with the cracked head, was a 4 hole gasket. now im thinking of going with a thicker 5 hole gasket. my thinking is the 5 hole is slightly thicker which would reduce compression thereby lowering the chances of cracking the head again due to high combustion pressures, but in doing so giving away a little torque in the process. what do you think?
My mechanic friend picked up the gaskets for me so I can't help you there sorry. I think the cracking of the original heads was a design flaw that has been corrected in the design of some of the new aftermarket heads (mine was one), so I don't think you need to try and compensate for it if your head is one of those. I'm also not confident that fitting a thicker gasket will make much difference to the compression and/or torque. I'm also not sure decreasing the compression would stop the head from cracking, but I never researched what caused the heads to crack or if they actually know.
@@aussieknowhow thanks for the input. I'm just gonna go with the 3 hole gasket that was supplied, I did a bit of research there does not seem to be any benefit one way or the other. I'll see how it goes. I believe the heads were cracking due to the thickness of the alloy in certain places. and overheating in those places, a different thermostat that opens sooner was suggested. thanks for posting this playlist, probably couldn't have done it without them. bad news, I dropped a head bolt washer into the engine bay somewhere, its behind the turbo I think, but it's gone to another dimension. ended up ordering a washer from a Toyota dealer. cheers
Really good video with some very helpful advice. Planning on doing mine in the next few days. The car has been laid up for two years so hope things haven't deteriorated too much.
Thanks mate, I only had the instructions that came with the kit and numerous RU-vid videos to go off. I always appreciate helpful and constructive feedback 👍.
Excellent series. Thank you for the work you put into making these videos. Did you buy the AMC head or a chinese one? And at what mileage did your one crack?
Thanks for the feedback. I had a mechanic friend round up the head for me. It was an aftermarket head (not an OEM Toyota) that was an upgrade on the original design to fix the cracking issue the originals could have.
No worries mate, glad you find it useful. All the best with changing the head. You could do it over a weekend, but I'd start early, 7ish, and work into the night, 9ish, to make sure.
Hi mate, thanks for the videos, seeing you doing it on your nature strip was the inspiration I needed to get off my butt to do mine! In the instructions that came with my head it said to hand crank the engine until oil shows in the galleries but noticed you didn't do this. I've cranked it over for ages and nothing is coming through, reckon I just pour some oil in and go to town with the starter motor?
Thanks and glad you are finding it useful. I wouldn't have expected hand cranking would have built up enough pressure to push up the oil. I certainly didn't do it. If you haven't done it already and can, put a small amount of oil in each cylinder just to lube the cylinder walls and hand crank it a few times to spread it. But unless the block has been sitting open for ages and the bores a bone dry I don't think it'll be a show stopper.
This is helpful. Should I replace the fuse at the same time? My rear windows aren’t moving using either the master switch or the switches on the doors. I’m wondering if the child lock has malfunctioned in the ON position
I've not dug into the relationship between the child lock and the window switches, so I can't help you with that one sorry. Is it just both rear windows not working and the front ones are?
I don't know how you could. The only thought I have is to try and reverse what you did with the key and see if it can pull the dead lock back in. Is it a Gainsborough lock? Failing that I can only suggest a lock smith sorry.
All good info but a little ass about face, always give yourself maximum space when in the engine bay, takes 20mins to remove the radiator and that would have made your life way easier, you were fighting space on the entire front of engine work, remove the radiator and fan shroud.
I did think about that, but then I would have run into the aircon intercooler, so didn't see the benefit at the time. In hindsight there were a couple of things that may have been made a bit easier by removing it, but hindsight's good for that :)
@@aussieknowhow air con condenser is the front most cooler, radiator can be removed from inside the engine bay after viscous fan, 4 bolts secure the radiator through the top and lower grills
Tested the fuse's all good was master switch . Put new master switch and aswell as front passenger and rear passenger switche's. Thank's for video was simple to do mate.
The timing belt has two marks on it that you align with two pulleys when you fit the new one. No need to mark it yourself. See video 10 - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DdSh60JTkmM.html
@@aussieknowhow thanks mate I’ve now watched them all. I’m doing a head this weekend, can I ask how you knew were able to set the head timing correctly before you placed it on. Is it as simple as having the cams rocking on cylinder 1 valves?
