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You can close the isolation valves and remove just the refrigerant that’s in the outdoor unit, you cannot replace the compressor with refrigerant still on the lines.
Oddly enough, my house came with a double door deep pantry and adjustable sliding shelves on the side of my refrigerator like you show. I don't like them... too many steps to get at anything they contain and things are hard to get at in the back of the shelves (even with the pull-out feature, as the cabinet is 24" deep). Two hands are required to open both doors and pull out one or more shelves, each and every time I need access and its too easy to bang the shelves against the door(s) if they are not closed fully. I'm converting both cabinets, upper and lower, to full pull-out pantry units where the door is integrated with the shelf carcass and it then has internal adjustable shelves, using extra heavy duty soft-close drawer slides (275 lbs.). Two slides at the bottom and one at the top to keep it from racking. One action required to open the whole thing and you have access to all contents from the sides, which is way more convenient... especially when unloading groceries.
Sounds like your plan would be a huge improvement to your current cabinets with the double doors. Anything that requires 2 handed operation is far less efficient.
What exactly is the problem with semi-hermatic compressor and you replace all pressure valves etc... ? Appreciate your response as I am a new HVAC Technician learning. Thanks
This system utilizes a pump down cycle to shut the compressor down. Basically a liquid line solenoid valve closes when there is no longer a call mechanical cooling. The compressor is deenergized when the low pressure switch on the suction opens. One or more of the valves were leaking refrigerant back into the suction raising the pressure and causing the compressor to energize. The compressor would repeat the pump down cycle running until the low pressure switch opened again. The compressor was short cycling and running every few minutes for a short period of time.
Hey i have a 10 ton unit and i bought hvac gut he couldnt locate the leak.is there any solution in finding the leak.keep on putting freon and keeps dying out because of the leak.
im a building engineer and today I came on roof because tech was doing repairs and I noticed the technician brazed an access port on the unit he was recovering and he also installed a bullet piercing valve and was recovering from both the brazed port and the BPV im like wtf is this shit ... cant be right?? he stated there was no port to recover from but I clearly saw suction line and 2 other original access ports from the daiken RTU ??
im going to look up the manual for that unit and see what those acces ports are because it looked like he only had 1 5/16 to 1/4 hose adapter so he just brazed in a port...
Was this a daikin vrv system? The only thing I can think is that the two factory access ports on the vrv unit are 5/16” and require an adapter to use with standard 1/4” charging hoses. Maybe he didn’t have the adapters? In my opinion the piercing valves are junk and should be removed after use. The other brazed port they were using, did they add that? Not sure how they would have brazed that if they could not recover the system prior to adding it.
Thank you for sharing. I have a 60 ton that shut down about 30min. And restart when there is 73 + oat and the third compressor kicks in. I never see the 4th run at anytime. I replaced the 4th comp. contactor and it run good for 5 days and start shutting down. advice.
Core depressors with field piece probes are the best way to never ever get burned while barley taking any refrigerant out of system. Hoses trap refrigerant probes don’t. Core depressors guarantee no burns and u control when schrader pin is actually pushed in. Every tech should know this because it changed the way I feel about hooking up. 1/4 inch core depressors are on Amazon for 18$ a pop and field piece probes and clamps ran me about 400$ from a supply house but u can probably find it cheaper. I hope this helps you as much as it helped me.
I have an SMAN4 that has a single wire detached from the circuit board. Is there any way you could send me a photo of the circuit board from your gauge set so I could see where the wire goes? Please and thank you!
@@geoffi So what are the best gloves to grab? My coworker acted like I was weak for being nervous of being burned by refrigerant. But, I just felt there was a smarter and safer way to deal with the process. Please if you don't mind.... can you provide me with the exact gloves that are best for this? & a link to the field piece probes? I need both of these things if it will keep me from being burned. I have a coworker who's hands are literally stained with pale white skin burns and I prefer not to burn myself! Thank you so much man. Truly appreciate it!
No issues yet, the snow blower has not gotten much use as this winter or the prior winter has been pretty light for snow fall. I did use it a few weeks ago and everything was working properly.
If you give me a little more info I could probably give you a recommendation. Do you know what type of equipment it is? (I.E. packaged unit, split system, water sourced, chiller, etc.). Is this a commercial, residential, or production type facility?
Good job,you can used a coins or any metal object and touch those 2 screws on the low voltage terminal block and will go fast on test mode,you don’t have to wait,is too cold,be safe
Hello I'm from India I'm interested this work and my qualifications diploma in Aircondition and Refrigeration. I also work vrv dakin and caset Aircondition package a.c . And I'm Search job aporchunity
Well done! Thank you for sharing! But.. with all my respect ; using low loss fittings REQUIRED by EPA Section 608! If a technician don’t use low loss fittings and purposely vents CFC, HCFC, HFC refrigerant they subject to fines and criminal prosecution. As of 2017 penalties for venting include a fine of up to $44,539 per day per violation. It’s a low
