i put 94 in my '23 ram $120-$125 for a 33gal tank. I came hear the difference in engine & exhaust note when running 89. I bought a truck, so I don't care about the price of gas.
MDS is horrible for your engine. These trucks are heavy enough it doesn’t help much anyways. When those cylinders disengage you have metal to metal contact in your engine.
Can you have multiple tunes like a 97 octane and a 87 octane tune and do you need the device to switch between tunes or can you switch the tunes without it
370 RWHP just from a set of long tubes and a tune?! That means adding in a 20% parasitic loss, the headers and tune added 67 crank hp to an N/A motor (462 bhp vs stock 395 bhp). Somebody is either full of shit or the tuner loaded the rollers to lie like a sum bitch....
Please dont tell me you just said lower the rear. Because if you did, then youre insinuating that in order to hook and launch, "that Thang needs to squat!" Since somebody else has already said it better, i leave you with this: "Shut the f*ck up and go somewhere else. You dont know what youre talkin about." -Secretary of State Rob....
Appreciate the review. Keep in mind, this is super mild "tuning" on a stock naturally aspirated Powerplant. All it does is just massage spark/fueling to optimize the power curve. Its not gonna rocket to 120 mph from highway speeds. If you wanna "feel the power," toss a stinger plate kit from nitrous outlet on it and club it over the head with a 250 shot.
The software in your truck has to retune itself to the octane. You're not going to get accurate results tank to tank of fuel. Also, why would you think you'd be getting better gas mileage with 89? That's not the point of using it. It's for the higher compression of the Hemi so it can run at it's full potential.
My 2014 camry said to run an 87 but it just feels like the gas count for how many miles you have left drop by really quick. I noticed when driving 1 miles, it drop by 2 or 3. So if my destination is 20 miles, it dropped by like 50 total. Then when I switch to 89 and it was a bit better, a 20 miles drive now will cost about 30 on the reading. Still not accurate but better. Not a car expert but should I keep going with it or revert back to 87 for a better life for my engine?
Back when trucks ran hundreds of thousands of miles, you would use 89 to prevent misfires and detuning. You would lose millage and cost, but the engine was protected for the long haul. You also got more power from the octane boost, in the V8. Now that trucks are 'built to break', in so many other ways, you will start to spend endless money on other problems near 100,000 miles. The prices have skyrocketed too. I find that you can run 87 without any real damage. It runs for plenty of time, before rust or other failures replace the effort. The cost and mileage, plus unreliability, make it pointless to put in 89. If you're a safety pro, want Mopar power, or are wealthy, then 89 is for you.
Tanks for putting this video up! But it's funny to see Americans complaining about their gas prices. Come to Sweden and have a taste of *DESPAIR!* 😂 Right now (oct 2023) diesel is the equivalent of appr. 8.5 $/G. Prices in the video are from yesteryear but that's close to double! Price of electronics and automobiles is around 35% up over American prices as well.
My 5.7 2017 ram owner's manual states that 87 octane is "acceptable" but 89 octane is "recommended" so I've used 89 octane since day one, mostly from Chevron, sometimes Shell.
I get better mileage with mds off. I have a 2019 Ram 1500 Classic with the 5.7 Hemi and 3.92 posi rear-end. With MDS on the truck is constantly going in and out of MDS. With it off my mileage increased by 2 mpg and it's more responsive.
So this is turning out to be a longer process than what I thought it would be. I got my unlocked PCM last week and followed the procedures that needed to be done before swapping the PCM. I disconnected my battery then I removed the gray/silver connector, but then the tan/beige connector wouldn’t come undone at all. In the process of trying to get it off, I ended up breaking the red latch off. So in the end, I was unable to get the connector off and had to take it to the dealership to have them get it off plus put a new latch on it. I went and picked my truck up from the dealership yesterday and brought it home and immediately swapped my PCM since I had already installed the bypass module and gotten the stock tune onto the tuner last Thursday. So then I continued on with the process and selected which tune I wanted to do and then it asked me if I wanted to customize the tune or add it as is. By this time it was starting to get late and I had to go to bed so that way I could get up for work early in the morning. I tried to see if my truck could start and it would start and run for maybe one second and then die. It did this a total of five times until it no longer wanted to start. I’m hoping as long as I finish up tuning later on today when I get home from work but after doing that, my truck will finally start. If I keep having problems, I’m gonna have to just throw my stock PCM back in my truck since I have to pull my travel trailer next week.
Hey buddy, I still don’t see how you actually do it. I’m planning to buy the same. But don’t know how to set it up. All the things you talked about, I don’t really understand the technicality. If you show what you actually do. That would be fantastic, thanks in advance.
