A channel dedicated to vintage Japanese motorbikes and their restoration.
Bio: I started riding bikes back in the late 1970's and like a lot of people, stopped when family and other commitments came along. Now semi-retired and considerably older, I've returned to motorcycling and what was once a necessary, cheap form of daily transport is now a hobby.
I can turn my hand to most areas of motorcycle restoration, but please remember I'm not a qualified mechanic! My passion is for the Japanese bikes of my youth; both the ones I used to own, and also the ones I could never afford at the time. This channel is my way of sharing this passion with like minded, equally passionate people.
Hey, i highly advise you to replace the starter clutch rollers while the engine is out, its really common for them to get gummed up and stuck, either engaged, that will burn up the starter motor, stuck disengaged and make a horrible screeching sound My starter clutch on my 79 just got stuck disengaged, and i will be pulling the engine out to repair it
There should be a one way return valve on the end of the spring, wasnt until i rebuilt mine with the new kit that didnt come with it that i realised, had to rebuild using the old valve
I'm currently working on my understanding of this bike. My dad had this as his first bike, about 15 years ago. He then got a newer Honda ST1100 Pan European, and the CBX has been standing still for almost 10 years, at this point. I'm getting it for free, and I can't wait to get the bike restored and take it for some joyful rides! The only costs to me will be new parts and maintenance.
I really want a classic Honda I can do some serious miles on. Id absolutely love a CX500C but these have also caught my eye. Is there a massive power difference and riding experience? Especially as a high miler, would it be a better idea to go for greater engine capacity, or are these 400s solid?
The CB400T is a great bike but dated in respect to the CX500. If you're intending doing some serious mileage the shaft drive on the CX would be an advantage also. Good luck finding the right bike!
@@VJMotoResto 5 gal buckets should last much longer than that. Voltage doesn't matter to much in Plating, however voltage is a measurement of force (physics wise or voltage pressure for electricians). So the only thing your accomplishing with a high voltage is producing hydrogen gas. If I remember correctly, I thing you only need a few volts to accomplish what your doing.
Had a faired one, then a naked one then another faired one..often drove it from west londin to devon,used it all over town for work,loved this machine...looks to kill at 500 paces
I,m lightly restoring my 1975 GL,, and yes I,v just made a misstake with buying parts,,I needed right hand switch gear and saw one ,,so jumped and ordered,,when I recieved it ,,it did not have the light switch on as per English model,,it was a US part without the light switch... Regarding back chrome mudguard mine is quite deep ,,dropping down well below the reg plate and light ,,unfortually mine has a split .. Again another English model only is the handel bars ,,mine came with straight ish bars ..Which when I rode (10yrs ago) played hell with my back ,,so I,m going US style bars ,,but I,m expecting trouble with wire length to switch gear..nothing is simple !!!
Iv a Honda TLR Hoping I can use this as when my ignition is on it drains the 6 v battery Tha stator and rectifier regulator are OK and sending 8 v to battery But the short that's somewhere is draining the battery till its flat
I'm a professional guitar maker and was wondering, how is he going to make sure the spokes are equally tensioned?,...Is he going to count the threads or something? I felt pretty stup!d when you hit the spoke with the screw driver and it made a perfect pitch 😁 You could literally tighten up those spokes with a chap $10 guitar tuner and have perfect tension all the way around. One thing to consider though is, that you change the pitch of each spoke if you cross it with another spoke and those two spokes touch each other. It's hard to see on the video, but if they touch each other, you've basically divide the length of a spoke in two parts and depending on which side of the crossed section you hit them, they will make a different sound. That's why some of the spokes on the old wheel didn't sound all the same when you "aimlessly" hit them with the screw driver. That, or they just were way off tension. There is a bit more to it, but I don't think that it's relevant on the scale of a motorcycle wheel. Grate job with the wheel. It looks amazing.
Got a new neutral switch to fit to my GL1000 which I believe is a engine out job but had heard it was possible to screw the top out in situ and clean the carbon off the contacts which will fix the neutral light staying on all the time so it was good to see this 👍
Really glad that I discovered your channel. I really enjoy your "no bull" and down to earth approach to everything, while still achieving the best possible result within reason.
Disculpe tengo una honda gl 1100 de 1979 se calentaba por unas juntas de cabeza que estaban mal selas cambien y ya no prendio cree que pueda ser las valvulas ya que solo avienta explosiones por el carburador el tiempo esta bien
Cheers,a useful video to have a look around the engine while its all out of the bike, im looking into getting a crash damaged 1500/1800 and quite like the idea of creating a lightweight trac/ day car like a small mid engine lotus europa convertable (if such a car exsisted),with Valkyrie carbs and exhaust sound it will sound like a little supercar, dont see many in cars yet but i think it could make a cool 70s inspired flyer go and sound well, with most of the brakes and lights switches and controllers being used from an original donor bike gives it interesting legislative standing as a bike/ car "kit". Like single front headlight no front numberplate mot emmisions held at the year of bike. Etc. Anyway thanks muchly😏
Another great video! I have been binge watching the whole series before I start restoring a 79 model. Please keep the videos coming. Looking forward to seeing it all come together!
On my Sherco trials bike I could change the fork seals without disassembling the forks. Take off the dust seal and the fork seal circlip and clean the recess as best you can with the seal still inside. Empty the fork oil as best you can through the drain, or top of the fork. Put the fork leg in a vice (use a rag or soft jaws to protect the chrome) and gently heat the area slightly around the seal, unscrew the cap and valve from the top of the forks and push a compressed air nozzle against a small oring to seal it and pump air into the fork. The seal should pop out. Make sure you have a rag wrapped tightly around end of the fork where the fork seal is, because it pops off with a bang and residue oil comes out behind it under pressure. You can then thoroughly drain the oil, refit the new seals, circlip, seal dust caps and add fresh oil, and the job is done. wear safety goggles because if the oil hits you in the face it is no joke. The first time I did this I didn't wrap a rag around it, and sprayed myself and the inside of the garage with dirty fork oil. 😂😂😂
Thanks for watching and commenting! That's certainly an interesting way to remove them! I've never tried it but next time I cant get the inner out of the outer leg because the damper rod just spins, I'll give it a go!
first kick is wrong .. second kick is right because you found TDC and all the way up with the kickstarter and all the way down .. that's because there is a decompressor on,,
Yes that's a good idea. Couldn't find anything lying around suitable though. I'm only riding about 10 miles for the event so it'll be fine for now. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Excellent video VJ. Hopefully this will help me sort things out on my 99 Triumph Thunderbird. Dead short I've been trying to run down for several days.
If ever the impact wrench/broom trick does not work on those bottom bolts, I've had success making up a fork tool - by tack welding a proper sized bolt (head down) on the end of suitably long and narrow diameter steel rod. Fits right in there. Cheers!
Bought mine brand new 14th April 1985, Red version, loved it!! Never a problem with chain tensioner...almost a year later near killed myself & totalled bike in collision with truck.. (my fault)... Bike was wrecked, front forks snapped clear in half...... how I survived is still a wonder.... Yup loved the bike... 39 years later my chariot is now a lovely SV1000S.... Great old girl....
good video. towards the end when you were trying to free the engine would lifting the bike off the engine have made it easier? just wondering. good job and thanks for showing us how to do this.
Thanks for watching! Lifting the bike wasn't an option for me as I have no lifting equipment. I am considering lowering the frame onto the engine during the rebuild though, and then re-assembling the rolling chassis afterwards.
Just spent 6 hours on pulling my 1979 GL1000 engine, and still haven't cleared it from the driveshaft and still have not been able to access the neutral switch! Frustrating ... but I appreciate the fact that you posted this. Good to know that others agree that "it's quite a job". Will try again tomorrow.
