Hi Brad, just done the rear cylinder lower rocker box gasket on my 2008 fxdc, all went great till I started her up, had the cover gasket upside down, re flitted now perfect, however now I am wondering if I fitted the lower one correctly . Don't want to strip down so to check I sucked and blew down rear pot and front pot air passage tubes with the same result, can't blow into either cylinder but it let's me suck does this confirm I got the gasket the right way up, brill vid just wished I payed more attention, any help much appreciated, ben
The software is ok, sometimes... But they've made it such a pain on the butt to connect the computer with the bike with the latest Bosch unit that it can be a nightmare just to connect up. Trust me. You don't really want it.
Wow you made removing the compensator nut and clutch nut look so easy, without using the 'jam' method using a wooden piece or tool?! how?! :) I honestly dont understand. Im currently gathering intel on how to do this job on a 1995 evo touring.
I haven't ridden a bike with the balancer removed so I can't speak to what it feels like. I can't imagine you'd notice any noticeable performance improvements just by removing the balancer tho.
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard got cha thank you, you’re one of the few that answers questions on here and i appreciate your honesty thanks. I’m putting my bike back together and figured I’d ask.
Ive adjusted it a few different times and still can't get it to work. I did the shift seal and main seal on the back of primary. Never removed the rear belt sprocket. I redid it again today ti make sure nothing was done wrong. Check the tranny side where cable goes in looks ok. Ive adjusted the clutch plenty of times before with no problems, weird soon as i put it into 1st gear it wants to take off. Got bike on lift. Thanks for the information. I just cant figure it out @HarleyDavidsonWizard
First off. Great video! For removal of jack shaft oil seal you use a 5/8 socket. I have an 03 TC88. 5/8 is too big. What would be the correct size? Also. It looks like someone used a green adhesive to hold the old one in? Should I apply heat or some kind of solvent before? Thanks.
Maybe the outside diameter of your 5/8 socket is larger than mine, just use the largest socket that'll fit through the primary bore. As for the green material... so the original oil seal harley davidson used had the green type of sealant on it. It was manufactured allready applied to the seal. If your using a new rubber seal like the one I'm using in the video, no green stuff or sealer is necessary as the new seal is updated and has rubber as the sealer.
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard My bad. What I thought was part of the case was indeed the metal part of the seal. Once I figured that out, the 5/8 worked and it came right out. Thanks a bunch. Now I can watch the rest of the video and get this thing back together.
I have a question again lol. I have the trans off the bike and i have the trans casing off as well. Is there anything i can do/use to hold it from spinning so i can get the sprocket off? Been trying for 4 days now 🤦🏾♂️
I've worn a leather glove and held the pulley before and used my milwaukee impact before. I have this one. amzn.to/4cBkKax. It has never NOT zipped that nut off. It didn't take alot of strength to hold the pulley, but it does have sharp edges.
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard got cha, i have that exact Milwaukee tool and i will try that, thanks man i really appreciate you responding so quick and being helpful. It goes a long way 🤜🏾🤛🏻
Sorry to bother you again, on a 2007 softail some say you need to loosen the 2 bolts from the starter to remove the inner primary. Then pull the starter back. And than remove the innerprimary. On a softail its a hard job because the oiltank is in the way for remove the bolt. So is it nessesary to remove the bolts? Isnt it possible to take the innerprimary of witht the starter in place? Can you or somone else tell me that ?
On a 2007 softail to remove the inner primary you will need to remove the 2 starter bolts and "dislodge" the starter from the primary, to remove the inner primary. I use a long 1/4 ball allen and can get in and remove the starter bolts, sometimes you have to removethe exhaust system. I back the starter bolts out of the primary but leave them dangling in the starter then you walk over to the primary side of the bike and firmly push on the starter gear (the starter has a firm oring that will keep it in the primary) so you push on the starter and it will move like 1/2 inch and the primary can be fully removed. During re-installation of the primary. Sometimes, it's easier to remove the battery, and you can get a couple fingers on the starter and wiggle it back into place in the primary before retightning the bolts.
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard Thank you for your reply, now for me I understand that the bolts are connected to the primary . So now I understand why to remove them. I also understand that the oiltank doesent need to be removed. As a technician amunition sinds 1980 ( dutch army )I have a golden rule :" I you dont know exactley whatyou are doing dot touch it ". Mij fatboy lo 2011 ( compensator model 2007 ) I let do the job by an qualified technician , but I like the technical aspect and I want to understand it. In general I prefer a trusted dealer and not somone who think he can do a job faster and cheaper. Better safe than sorry . Thanks again for your Answer.
Hey Brad, first off, I just want to say thank you very much for sharing your content I no longer have to pay thousands of dollars that I don’t have for someone to not fix my bike but my 2006 Harley Davidson Electra glide just like the one that you did the primary inner seal on it’s been going through clutches I’m just wondering if there’s anything that might be causing that or if I’m just not adjusting them properly I mean I’m pretty sure I’m adjusting them properly. It’s not rocket science but seems like this last set of Barnett clutches just went out faster than they should have. Let me know if I’m gonna spend 150 on the side of Barnett and 50 on the side Amazon ones and they both last the same amount of time I guess it’s really no comparison by why ???if you have I sure would appreciate it if you could share your thoughts on the situation, anything that might be causing my clutches to wear faster than normal first two years I had the bike. I never put clutches in it that I changed them one time and then now I got to change them every three months.
Thank you finally found a good video my bikes been sitting for 3 months. Watched it all took notes soon i should have my bike running thanks brother blessing to you
Should every harley mechanic at the dealer be able to do this job, or does he need a special qualification to do this high tech job? I mean its somthing differend than a normal sevice or do new pipes on it. I just wonder.
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard thanks I learnd a lot, but I keep my fingers away from it. For a softail its even more difficult because of the oiltank. Greetings from Holland.
I do have a leak on my primary side. But I'll be damned if I'd let these clowns around here do it. And I haven't got the Harley specific tools to do it. 500+ parts. Are you in the Detroit area?
At the time of making this video it didn't. It was a fantastic product. But it's been re formulated to where now it does. It's it's now a sucky product.
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard Thank you. Because of oil leaking, I'm going to change the rocker box gaskets on my 2008 FLHP. Do you recommend something other than CRC brake cleaner to remove debris from the screw holes and degreasing the engine?
That will work just fine. Just make sure you use air to blow cleaner and debris out of the hole. And use alittle of your cleaner on a unseen area of the frame & engine to make sure it doesn't harm the finish. Some of these newer non cfc cleaners can attack the paint if left on to sit.
At the time of making this video, the Wurth was great and didn't harm paint. But since then, it's been reformulated to be better for the atmosphere and now will harm paint if left on for like 20 seconds.
Hey Brad, where do you work at, need to get my transmission checked, getting shavings on my transmission sensor a lot, changed the fluid, nothing in or on the plug, rinsed the transmission with some diesel, nothing came out, put it back together put fluid in it and checked it again today, 100 miles later, got shavings on the sensor again, what do you think,it’s a 2000 ultra classic, 35000 miles, runs great shifts great, no problems.
No. I always replace the pulley nut as a best case situation. A new pulley nut comes with really good locktite pre-applied and a used pulley nut usally has at least a couple threads that have rust build up in them. And I prefer the clean threads of a new nut to prevent any future problems.
Why did you not have to use a wood chuck to hold the compensator and clutch housing for moving an most i see have to use a breaker bar . Is your trick to use a powerful impact gun
If i wanted to replace both transmission side cover gasket and transmission door gasket, do I have to do everything you did on the primary side? obviously not completely strip it down but do i just take out clutch release bearing and tensioner?
131 stage 4 , first of all I'm very sorry for your family loss (Palms 55:22) our God promised to help you carry this burden. That being said you will find much joy with that stage 4 Milwaukee eight. Be careful I have the stage 4 on my street glide it is big time aggressive and purrs like a kitten. Have fun!
After talking about tools and it taking 15 min then an add every 5 I ain’t wasting my time. Probably some useful info but RU-vid put in 50 ads in there and I give up
amzn.to/3UTQDmX is the one I use in the video. The red handle broke off of it so I uss the vice grip/slide hammer with it. I like it better that way. Saves the knuckles.
Sir, can i put a hose on my Front cylinder Breather tube Down to the Ground? It keeps Blowing Oil into my Air Cleaner, and I'd rather not R&R the umbrella gaskets right now as im semi-planning to do the 1275 upgrade next year.
Sure. You would want to keep both umbrella assemblys in both heads and keep both air cleaner breather bolts. Then just run the tube to the ground from there.
This is an older video where the pipe doesn't have catalytic converters in it. I haven't looked at a newer Vance & Hines pipe to see how easy or hard they would be to remove. We don't sell much of the Vance Hines anymore. We mainly sell D&D pipes that don't come with them.
I'm not sure why Harley didn't put oroper fins on the bottom of the pan to dump the heat out of it. Has minimal ridges along that increase the surface a bit.
That is the reason it costs so much to get things worked on in a shop is: Labor is not just man hours, it is all those tools that you do not have. Have you heard of the snap on man? The SNAP on MAN. That goes to every shop? You know what works, it is cool. You do amazing thorough work. Keep it up.
