No crime in killing time. Road racing is my addiction. Follow me as we document building and racing my track toys. My daily is a 2019 F-150 ecoboost and new to the channel is my 2022 Toyota GR86
I heard you mentioned adding a turbo to the car? Still planning to? Are you worried about heat soak issues? Love the videos BTW, thinking of getting a GR86.
I literally typed this comment at the 17 minute mark lol, looks like you got a turbo, still interested in your thoughts on heat soak as I am sure you have already thought a lot about it.
@@phelpsgarage4202unrelated to turbos, but if you were to start over with a 2024 GR would you get the performance package with the bigger brakes? Or go base and pick something aftermarket down the line?
@@user-iz3qg6sv3f depends on the budget. My AP racing brakes work too good 😂. I’m sure the performance package brakes are a lot better than stock brakes so maybe start with that.
I just returned from doing three track days. Two were at Watkins Glen. A 2:14 was my best lap which is as good as a top Miata Spec racer. I was running 255 Yoko AO55's. What surprised me about your video was that there were no point-bys AND a mix of Supercars and Miatas. I had a NASCAR car and some pro racers that were blowing by me, but they were required to get point-by's... I really had to stay on my toes with all the fast cars in my Instructors/Advanced level group.
Lol thats pretty cheap comparing to something like 911 or a c63 amg 507 that i own , brakes alone cost me 5.5k usd , thats on a cheap side oil change is 500bucks alone, i owne the car for 4years and allready 15k in maintnance
At 21:49, what is that part that you’re using to tap into for oil pressure? I am currently using a port built-in to the oil filter housing of my oil cooler kit, but my oil pressure seems to be reading high, even though my oil level appears to be OK. I’m thinking it’s because I’m tapping in into the filter housing.
Without a before and after I think the results you have are worthless. I agree that the dust shield needs to have holes in it. For my STI (very similar) I used the original plates and, after cutting holes in them, I welded a short piece of tubing for attaching flex hose to. That hose went to the bumper. Not that different from what Verus offers. Why are you switching brake fluids? I'm curious, as I've never had an issue with Motul. BTW, I run Wilwood calipers and Girodisc floating rotors that are the same as for my STI. The caliper doesn't take advantage of all of the rotor's surface, but the combo works great. I’m running PowerStop “Track Day Spec” rear pads and Hawk DTC 70 front pads. I haven't felt the need to add any cooling yet. Perhaps that will change on upcoming 85° day. I'm about to try 255/40R-17 YOKOHAMA ADVAN A055 SL tires on the car.
I have a 2013 Z06 with the Z07 Performance Package love that car in my opinion the 2011 thru 2013's with the Z07 Package are the greatest Corvettes ever made pound for pound.
Thanks for the video man. Toyota should gift you a new gr86 just for the street with everything you are doing to show the potential of this chassis. I need to get sway bars. I track the car. Which sway bars will you recommend.
@@phelpsgarage4202 nice i was looking into that one, i know a guy making 400-450 on that kit, also i was looking at jdl kit, please do a full install video im looking to purchase as well
What about the Perrin strut tower brace? Did you notice any difference? As I think I've mentioned (and lots of RU-vid videos to back it up with) I have a similarly modified Gen2 car. How are you comparing to Spec Miata times? I'm as fast or faster than pole sitters at some tracks. That, without Hoosiers.
I'm currently using the RBF600, I also have a bottle of SRF for future bleeds. One issue I have with the SRF is the bottle size, 1L vs Motul's 500ml, a bleed on my car takes a little less than 500ml (dirty to clear fluid in my catch bottle). I don't know if after opening the SRF how long the self life of the fluid is, the unused fluid sitting in the opened bottle is bound to start absorbing some water. Do you think its safe running the SRF that was opened a year earlier? I do a bleed at the start of ever season.
Been following you on IG for a bit, happy to have found your YT brother!! I'll most likely be in a GR86 and trading in my WRX in a week or so. What steering wheel is that? Looks sweet!
Wheel set up looks great!!! Was there any modifications you had to do to fit the 57 gramlights??? I’m looking at purchasing a set in the same spec for a good price. Thanks 🙏🏼
Thanks for sharing this. You should have more "storytime" segments if you get the chance. Also its crazy, I was just readjusting (today) my rear Whiteline adjustable endlinks. Having a hard time getting them to zero preload. Lastly, are you adding E85 to yourself, cause you're looking mad fit bro. Can you even fit in your 86, Hulk? Lol 😂 seriously, love the channel, down to earth advice and experience. Keep it up brother. Gives me hope for my build.
Good to hear from you, yes it’s been a while. Stillen has a reasonably priced bigger rear sway bar but I can’t complain as my 2022 Hyundai Elantra N rotates easy as it is. I was impressed that the 2024 models now come with poly rear bushings from factory ✌️
This was an awesome video!! Never been on the track with a car, but planning to drive on track in the future. Great voice over and the knowledge was appreciated.
About the tyres, could it not have been the camber/other geometry? The Hoosier tyre will be a softer compound and hence the rubber strength will be lower than the street equivalent. If the tyre didn't make a nice contact patch, it could shear easier hence performed worse. I'm guessing the geometry should change between tracks, but I wonder if there could be a way to test the contact patch, maybe filming the tyre somehow?? or Just looking at the tyre wear
Good to see a new upload! Congrats on the turbo! I worry about forced induction on stock internals with the 20% higher compression in the GR86's FA24D (12.5:1) compared to the turbo WRX's FA24F (10.6:1). 🤔 Glad to hear you got the understeer dialed out too!
they respond very nicely to boost. high comp means not much psi needed for very large gains. they are completely capable of holding 350whp reliably, including stock internals, stock clutch, stock transmission. seems these were overbuilt, and quite sturdy when not starved of oil.
With good fueling and tuning, low boost and timing I’m hoping it lasts quite a bit. I’m only looking for 100 hp which is easy on pump gas with like 5/6 psi
@@phelpsgarage4202 if you look around 100hp reliable you need at list to run on e50, on pump gas max 50hp stock block gr86 is not reliable on boost for TRACK use. Is metter of temperature, if you can manage to run low temperature it gonna work otherwise forget reliability, already with stock NA it run really hot those engine, subaru engine don’t like high temperatures is the major reason because they fail and as well knocking thats why you need e50
with harder sway bars you have less roll and "less grip", it does different reaction in the steering input, so in theory a nicer feeling to the driver to let you push harder the car....
Awesome video brother! Loved the story time and good insight on the experience you're having with each stage of modding. Good ideas to help stiffen the chassis, I look forward to seeing the results!
@phelpsgarage4202 thanks for the insight! I was doing 28-29 cold, around 33-34 hot. I need better tires tho, the Cosmo mucho machos don't feel too good around the sweepers
