Hello everyone and thanks for stopping by! My name is Mathew. I have been an automotive & light duty truck technician since 1994. I currently work for a Ford dealer in Snohomish Wa. My intention is to share content that I find interesting and informative plus hope it gives you insight on similar repairs. Cheers from Rain City Wrench.
My Lord ! - " Rain City Wrench " - outta Washington State ( West Coast ) - whatta Cluster Flux Assignment ! Southern California Vietnam Era Veteran Ex GM Dealership Smog Inspector - Smog Repair Tech /Independent Auto Tech.
My doorman replacement part went bad after a year. Doorman sent me new gaskets but at this point I’m too lazy to tear it apart again. The leak isnt enough to cause more than a half quart of oil loss between oil changes so it’s staying the way it is unless I’m really bored some weekend. The one on our town and country didn’t look anything near as annoying as this looked.
This made me so glad that we had this factory installed! 😆 I highly recommend it. We use the B&W Companion w/ Slider Fifth Wheel Hitch, which has a pin that drops in & locks to the bed mounted Turnover Gooseneck Hitch. Unlike a lot of 5th Wheel hitches, it doesn't require any additional attachment points, so it's easy to remove (in 2 heavy pieces) & have a clear bed. We're towing a 40' 5th Wheel & the whole system works really well. We will definitely be putting it in any future trucks too.
Outstanding work! You sir, have the patience of a Saint!!! lol I see now that Ford has a pan replacement for 2.7 Ecoboost, as the original pan is no longer available. Pan # JT4Z-6675-E, and use only RTV# TA-31 for corners of pan only. One thing about Ford engineers, they make you use every tool in your tool box. lol Thanks for sharing!!! Cheers from Motown/Dearborn.
Appreciate that! 👍 Hard for me to keep up with all the service bulletins but Ford has TSB 23-2330 that uses pan #JT4Z-6675-E which also requires replacing the valve covers. The new pan doesn't have the side chamber and check valve. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-M38U3cdzDyo.html&ab_channel=RainCityWrench
Excellent teaching tool! BTW, I intently watched to see him Show the Idiot light Finally off....but he was done & gone..!!! Could He Edit this Video and show that? :)
First of all. My first car is ford escape 2013. I bought a week ago. I buy from used dealerships. And i have a problem. Shifter can move but wont shift. Indicator light stuck at Park position. After look up this video. Is that same problem with my car? Please answer. Cause i have no idea about car. Thank you so much
I don't think it can. The coil has an insulated sleeve that protrudes through the case. The insulator is blue on this transfer case and you will be able to see sticking out the back case.
This is freaking insane!!!! You have to disassemble the whole car just to change the taillights!!! Thank you for making this video though so I can see that I will be taking this crap to someone else to do for me! 😂
I have a 2019 Raptor and I just replaced the arms and I had to loosen the rear glass panel to get the arm under it and far enough back to reach the hole with enough clearance. Your install seemed to have plenty of room in the rear. Now the motor doesnt seem to have the power to move the new arms back and forth and it keeps stalling/returning. I can get it to close but only if I help the air dam close. Any ideas? It was a major PITA to get the new forward portion of the arms into the track and they were hard to move forward and backward to get the ears to line up.
Great video. I just had this installed on my 22 super duty by a Ford dealership near me. When I got home I noticed the castings seem to be slightly off-center in the bed. I measured the position of the gooseball casting from the left and right side of the bed and there is about a 1/4-inch difference when measuring left-to-center compared to right-to-center. My bed seems to be aligned with the cab based on my measurements but the crossmember seems to be slightly crooked. I’m curious if this can be corrected or even matters? I brought it up with the dealership but haven’t received much of a response as of yet.
Almost every one I have done is slightly off to the passenger side and forward on the right side. There are alignment pins that the bracket fits over but it places it off slightly. Luckily it won't affect anything other than the aesthetics to the eye. You will be good to go 👍
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I have question about aligment of this plate and conwerter. Is a little off a acceptable thing? I jusat watched wideo about them and guy said " these flex plates are there to make up for this misaligment"
There should be no "A little off" The center hole should fit almost snug around the crankshaft journal. If something is off alignment then it will eventually ruin the torque converter, bushing, seal and or break the flex plate. Make sure the alignment dowel pins are in good shape and the dowel pin holes are not wallowed or elongated out.
Have the brakes inspected the next time your tires are rotated while it's on the lift. You may be able to look up inside the wheel yourself and see the outer brake pads. They sell cheap measuring gauges that you can check the pad thickness. If the pads are 2 or three millimeters then they need to be serviced very soon. www.amazon.com/Lisle-81850-Combination-Brake-Lining/dp/B00OJG327E/ref=asc_df_B00OJG327E/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5867973331562478612&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033389&hvtargid=pla-2281435180218&mcid=ceb922e8e1973c30b68bb5c70edfa826&hvocijid=5867973331562478612-B00OJG327E-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1&th=1
I would start by looking in the owners manual for the rear wiper fuse and check it. Next I would have the modules scanned for codes related to wiper motor. If fuse is fine then you need to locate the wiring diagram and check the power and ground at the wiper motor. My 02 Yukon rear wiper stopped working and it ended up being a burnt ground at the liftgate harness. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sF546BES6Bg.html&ab_channel=RainCityWrench
Most likely has the 6F50 transmission. Count the times the rpm's drop when accelerating from a stop to 60mph. The rpm will drop each time it shifts which will be 5 times to reach 6th gear. If it doesn't reach 6th gear then something is wrong. It may be in limp mode. I would have the computer scanned for codes and fluid level checked before doing anything else.
I just got done pulling the front timing case off to replace my timing chain tensioner. Filling the radiator back up and have water running down the back of the block. Despite practicing the install of the cover with a new O-ring on the front of the pipe, I have managed to get a leak. It was a lot of work to pull that case to I am looking at going in through the top. My first attempt will be to try and reseat the pipe from the top after removing the minimal things needed to access. If that doesn't work. I will be doing this next. Do you have a list of O-rings that I need to replace if any? How about part numbers for the knock sensors?
Could you possibly torque down the phasers before reapplying tension to not have to worry about putting pressure on the guides rails and tensioner, also could you use a pair of vise grip on the cams locked against the other cam or intake surface to prevent the cam tool from flying and having to use a wrench and extender?
Yea you can use a vise grip to hold the cams. You could also index a wrench on the cams with the alignment tool still installed and tighten before pulling the wedge on the tensioner 👍
These hubs can be manually locked in by rotating the lever on the outside or if left in auto, they will be vacuum actuated when switching control to 4x4 on the dash.
@raincitywrench117 on a truck that has manual locking hubs the 4×4 knob on the dash only turns on the transfer case. There's no vacuum lines connected to your hub so it's just a inner knuckle seal correct?
