Playing this track (Orbital - Belfast ) while night cruising years later still gives me goose bumps. Not many car enthusiasts have a 'tune' that speaks a cars creation like this does. Maybe it's just me...
I think the most efficient way to cut grass is with a rotary sickle. The curved part captures and parallel shears instead of perpendicular rips. The slice aspect too is beneficial. Shearing works with a mower like that one you use, but it requires more torque. The smoother action of a rotary sickle will require constant loading, instead of point loading. ALso, slicing is easier than chopping. So, i think, if you use a regular rotary mower, with a special blade, an s shaped deeply curved blade, like 2 sickles in an s configuration, you get the most efficient cutting that way. Blade speed and momentum are also important when cutting, I think friction is not increasing with increasing blade speed, but momentum stored energy is. Basically, I think the electric cordless mowers you can buy today need 2 upgrades, a hole in the front of the deck for grass intake, and a curved blade. It works like a sine wave, and slices instead of shears, which at the right speed is more efficient. It needs to catch and slice the grass somewhat fast to get the most efficient cutting action.
Can you provide a link to the 14T bmx freewheel sprocket you used? All the 14T freewheel sprockets I've found have a 34mm ID, which is too big for the Staton 2409 adaptor.
Works great! ru-vid.comUgkxprGGPRQoChQaA8u58dt7miEpxQBKiWeJ More difficult with longer grass, though, but I was expecting that. I have a small back yard, it seemed like overkill to buy a lawnmower with an engine. This is easy to carry in and out of the basement through the bulkhead. Very sharp (be careful). At the back of the mower are little wheels, which I use when pulling the mower backwards, so it's easy to readjust direction. I'm including a photo which shows the before and after for my lawn when it was at its longest. For long grass like that you really have to put some muscle into it, and I needed to go into a new section of grass with some momentum, but when the grass is only an inch or two higher than regular cut height it's quite easy. The lawn is still patchy and full of weeds, but at least it's a good height! A step in the right direction.
Yes, absolutely! There are plenty of folks who've built their own reel mower this way. Here are a couple of examples: ru-vid.comlW9Ujx4NxMg ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KRo33fkIQ_Q.html
How did you get the bmx sprocket on the reel axle? I’ve got a rounded nut with a washer that I can’t remove to place the sprocket. Did you have this issue?
@@andrewdouthitt3693 No issues with a rounded nut. I just removed all the parts from the axle, then heated the Staton 2409 adapter and slid it on the axle for a friction fit. The BMX sprocket then screws onto the Staton 2409 adapter.
All in I would estimate just under $400 for everything for this build. It could be less or more depending on the following: - price of the mirror and camera on the used market (I got very lucky on these) - price of parts for second license plate lamp - tools already owned for the build (especially the 3D printer) - miscellaneous materials like connectors for the license plate lamp, filament, wires, etc
Which camera did you use for the mirror? Been searching for coax ones that might work but most seem meant for an OEM housing and not something you want to mount on the car exterior
I don't recall the exact model number, but it's the same camera intended for the Camaro. The camera itself is well sealed and the printed housing provides enough extra protection for exterior use in this situation.
Hey, I just found your post on an s2000 forum. I bought one of these mirrors to do this exact same thing on my Jeep and I'm looking for a pinout for the 5 wires in the harness. Do you have that?
@@senrusho I don't have the exact dimension of the ball since there is a teflon sleeve that surrounds it. This adapter is designed to accommodate the size/shape of the sleeve, not the ball itself. Additionally, the metal plate on the back that retains both the ball and sleeve in the adapter are part of the OEM S2000 mirror mount. (pics of both items linked below) The best way to go about modifying this mount is to see what the ball joint of the new recipient vehicle looks like and how it's retained, then design around that. Unfortunately, I understand that's a risky proposition since you could cannibalize and perfectly good OEM mirror only to find that it won't be possible to make this mount work with it. Good luck, and let me know if you have any other questions! Sleeve: photos.app.goo.gl/wQn2tphfvRV8eUT88 Back plate: photos.app.goo.gl/SoXwzEpjcVoCcfyQ9
The only two wires I used on the harness are for power (red) and ground (white+black stripe). The mirror retains its setting even with the power completely disconnected.
Wow, this is impressive. I was thinking of getting a new Gentex “universal” version of this but the camera has to be mounted inside the car against the rear windshield. I’ll have to try and read up on what you did here
Thanks! I use a 4 Ah battery when cutting the grass and have never had it run out yet, so unfortunately I couldn't tell you. However as a point of reference, it takes about half an hour to finish cutting the backyard, and trim the edges all with the same battery.
@@aphex4000 What's your square footage, what type of grass, and what is the cutting height? I see there are now cordless reel mowers on Amazon for $200...so that's another angle that can actually work out to be less expensive.
@@golfshoe9321 We have an odd shaped backyard because of a creek that run behind the property, but I would estimate just over 2,000 sq ft. I totally agree that the number of electric reel mower options on the market have grown considerably, and would be a better option for someone who doesn't already have all the spare parts for a project like this.
@@golfshoe9321 It was built for a beautiful lawn of cavalier zoysia (shown in the videos), but we have since moved to Georgia where the lawn is an unsightly mix of st. Augustine, bermuda, fescue and several miscellaneous weeds like chickweed, spurge and nutsedge. 🤦♂️
There is a post on Reddit with links to a lot of the build photos to help anyone who wants to give this a try. Someone also responded to my post on S2ki with a very well executed 3D printed solution of their own (for a different digital mirror) at the link below. www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-electronics-26/frameless-digital-rearview-mirror-oem-mount-1211840/
Good question, I totally had not thought of that! The pipe is still coupled with the Wingtite connector and the funnel exit is only a tiny bit smaller in diameter than the pipe itself. It is possible that sewage backing up at high velocity could be an issue due to the slightly reduced pipe diameter (a couple of mm), but for a slow backup it should not be a problem.
This is a good point. Maybe a O-ring of correct diameter could be installed in-between the funnel and original pipe if the funnel had sufficient thickness to support the o-ring, or even a silicone caulk barrier might work? @@aphex4000
Sorry, but no plans to put together an in depth tutorial. There are several 3D printing companies online that should be able to create the parts for you.
Hi, I added a small £5 speed controller on the 24v supply to the rear fans and I trim them back to 60%, reduces the noise very cheaply and a lot quieter or I can ramp up to full again if required 👍👍
What sprocket tooth ratio did you use? I'm doing the same thing and have a 12 tooth sprocket on the motor and am looking at either a 20 or 24 tooth one on the reel shaft.
10T on the drive sprocket (attached to drill output) and 14T on the freewheel sprocket (attached to mower shaft). The 14T was chosen because of the clearance between the mower shaft and frame. A full parts list is in the description of of the overview video. (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W-96d-06aOs.html)
It worked fine during the time it was installed, but I ultimately returned the hotend back to its factory configuration. I went through about 1/2 kg of filament trying to get print quality better that I could with the original setup, but the results were the same. The only real upside is the speed at which the hotend heats up, but I was unwilling to trade that for the increase in noise level due to the smaller cooling fan (linked below) I used. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AbIA4V4omek.html
@@williamluong7743 yep, I completely agree! However, I think a full Bowden extruder conversion would be needed on this particular printer to fully benefit from this hotend. There is just so much weight on the carriage that changing directions at high speeds (even with tuning of accel/decel settings) causes too much vibration. Because of this, the only other benefit I looked for was an improvement in quality, which just isn't going to happen. 😕
Yep, the clone worked just fine but didn't seem to perform any better than the original setup. I am not sure if this has anything to do with the quality of the clone of it it just reflects the limitations of the Flashforge Dreamer's design.
I haven't tested a mellow clone, but the NF Crazy hotend clone of the Mosquito hotend works great. Was it worth the effort to mod this relatively old printer? As a matter of practicality, no. It was definitely a fun project though!
Its crazy how much they charge for reel mowers it actually doesn't make sense based on what they actually do. No competition in the market place so they can pick whatever price the see fit.
My question is how did you get the sprocket over the bearing race? I just built a rc tank with a reel mower but my sprocket is screwed to the wheel. I really don’t like my setup
