I started this channel, because there's not enough 4th Gen Acura TL SH AWD content on RU-vid. Big plans for this TL over the next couple years. Please hit that subscribe button, and join the journey for low to mid 12s NA! Then it's Gerzybear Supercharger Kit to get in the 11s👌?!
That depends, if you're going for sound or gains. Nothing will sound cleaner then not having pcds. My favorite setup was XLR8 jpipe only with muffler delete(busted muffler on one side)..Sounded like GTR from the inside. For gains XLR8 jpipe is only 2.75", now I have PLM with 3" but I liked the sound of xlr8 more. I also liked the sound of my OEM resonators better then the current setup. So, I can't really answer that question haha. Still got a cpl more setups I'll be trying.
I think Honda/Acura should’ve come up with a way to have the coolant pass through the throttle body only when needed. It just adds more heat to the air charge. And be careful of certain automotive cleaners such as brake clean. They can erode the valve covers… happened to my 4th-Gen TL and I had to replace them.
I have a base TLX 2018 V6 Sh-awd, it was from the CPO Section during the Pandemic.. No issues with the recalls so far, and I havent even brought it in for recalls unless the problem appears later on. Then, I will still have access to the remedy at no cost. Bought it at 32k mileage. Now, it's just under 75k mileage from 4 years of ownership, snow and everything. Just did a transmission and transfer fluid change at 74K. Along with Oil change just for fun. Replaced spark plugs at 65k just for fun. I replaced old ROTORS AND PADS with new OEM rotors and pads after 1 year of ownership. For some reason, the old rotors were warped causing the vibrations when braking (This was my biggest cost on repairs since owning the car). Since then, the past three years of ownership the new rotors havent warped yet. Such a relief, i think people just suck at driving, and cause rotors to warp based on their shitty braking reflexes. It feels really good to press on the brakes at high speeds now. Painted my calipers so the rust doesnt affect it in the long run. I did flush brake fluid when it was due. So far, it's still my baby. Nowadays, I joy ride that boy like there's no tomorrow out on the roads, and it's still kicking. Such a beautiful, naturally aspirated V6. That being said, it's an underrated vehicle. Very reliable, just keep up on the maintenance. Dont wait, just do it early. When my mileage hits around 90k I plan to change timing belt along with everything needed in that service. I dont wait around for things to deteriorate at the last second. Always stay on top, and your car will always be at it's happiest. Never seen a single check engine light on this Acura. Do I recommend this car? Only for someone who wants a luxury that's reliable. But it's definitely not the fastest car out there because of the weight. But it beats most cars on the road even with SH-awd. Besides, I ride motorcycles, there's no better speed than that. I do reccomend this car, but make sure you know the maintenance needed to be done that the previous owners didnt get to take care of. Regarding the STOP AND START. That's some garbage stuff.. For the past 4 years of ownership, I've gotten used to *everytime i get in my TLX press the button to turn it off* whoever came up with that STOP AND START garbage needs to be fired immediately. Even today they still run that bullshit in their new TLX's. Just sad. That shit really fucks up your starter.
It’s basically there to stop the throttle body butterfly from sticking when outside temperatures are too low. In warm climates it’s not needed at all. But in places where it’s normally super cold 🥶 it’s very useful.
@@Justwhimmy my best was 4.62s and 12.99 @105.55...insane for a bone stock Luxe on 91 imo, the freezing temps definitely played the biggest factor though haha
Run a full one where it gets more air and replace the factory air box. One sec gen you can even use actual headers that'll give it even better sound. Honda after 2003 went with a different exhaust port setup on the heads. Not the traditional port style but more the integrated log style heads.
They don't make true CAI for the 4G TL. I currently have a full custom 4" CAI with the filter feeding right from fog light hole. Only way to use actual headers os to swap the J32a2 heads on my block, but once I blow my j37a4 I'll swap J35 block with J32a2 heads for boost.
I get this issue with my 2021, only happens around a quarter tank usually a bit lower. Happens very rarely though so ive just ignored it and try to keep more the a quarter tank. You should look into mechanical breakdown insurance it’s different from 3rd party warranty, I got that cause im planning on getting tuned, I only pay $15 a month. With mine as long as i show maintenance logs and receipts even for work you do yourself they’ll cover your car modded or not. Rn it’s happening alot but because i put on the AMS full downpipes and haven’t gotten a chance to get tuned so thats just a heads up if you plan running catless
Did you do all the mods at once the tune or bit by bit driving it until you wanted to do the tune? I was always under the impression a car wont be running very good when adding performance parts without tuning it?
@motavice3499 depends on what mods you do. I have a 4G and almost went fbo with just ktuner basemap before getting etuned.. the owners description is in video, and I'm sure he only gets tuned once he does major mods, he's built now with J37 heads making about 80+whp more then these runs
Yah a stock 4G 6MT faster than the MDX Type S, wish they'd put the same platform in the RDX as a Type S to compete closer to the other mid to high 300hp small SUVs.
It should yes, other then Jpipe and catback...jpipe would bolt up to pcds, but you'd have to customize the catback exhaust to bolt to the jpipe...Can do lightweight wheels too
Turn the car on. Go to the passenger door. Hold the window button down for 10 seconds than Hold it up for 10 seconds. After that his driver button will work. It happens when the battery is unhooked.
@@RevsALot My joint have the charger spot but just not the camera on the front.. I wish I still had my TL not gonna lie. I had it just the way I wanted. It was one of the cleanest ones in the city. Not to many people take care of they're Tls here smh. I just got the transmission fluid and oil changed on the tlx at the dealership yesterday so its feeling back new now. U got the best sooped up TL im seeing right no on RU-vid bro
One thing I noticed with the coolant is it's low when cold, but check it once it's fully warmed up. The lvl rises. Fuel cut is so frustrating though, cpl ppl in the comments mentioned some fixes for it which would be a good idea if you're out of warranty anyways.
This is common with the VR30. If you always keep more than 1/2 tank you really shouldn’t have this issue. Or once you do an aftermarket lpfp it goes away entirely. I will say once I tuned the car I’ve never had the issue again either even before I did the fuel system.
I mentioned in the video it did it with 3/4 tank, and I don't want to spend money on parts that will void my warranty to fix an issue that should be covered under warranty. If I didn't have payments then it'd be a different story.
This is a known issue with the factory fuel pump basket and pickup. It was designed for a daily sport cruiser, not a racecar. Problem is its located in the front passenger side of the tank, and the feed pickup tube on the drivers side is also draws from the front of the tank. Going around ramps , and uphill curves while accelerating makes the issue more apparent. (all the fuel sloshes away from the basket and pickup) It's a bigger issue on tuned cars because they launch harder. Either keep your tank over 1/2 a tank, or you will need to extend the pickup tube on the driver side and add a Holly Hydramat to your factory pump in the basket. I came up with this mod when my car got too fast to handle the fuel demand. No question that will solve all your issues. Forget the dealer, they can't fix it because it is a design flaw.
I seen a video of somebody doing something like that. I think it's ridiculous you have to do that to a car in order to be able for the car to run like any other car made sports car or not. Maybe I'll look into doing that, I'd like to mod it a bit but atm it makes me wanna sell it and get something else lol.
Without looking at the car in person. A few things that could be causing it might be obviously bad pump, bad fuel pressure sensor, bad fuel filter/dirty fuel pickup, bad spark due to worn out plugs, coilpacks not giving enough voltage, bad maf sensor, O² sensor on the fritz or something tune related.
I've only ever put 91 Shell, that's our highest octane. It started doing this around 38k km(23k Miles), and only at 45k(28k miles). Stock tune, never modded...unless Z1 Drop in filters count as a mod.
@RevsALot bad fuel could be pumped in from any gas station. Bad batch of gas. Hiccups can happen even on a stock tune. Also forgot to mention. During the hotter months of the year, it's a bad idea to run the tank down low. The hotter temps might be overheating the pump. Fuel in the tank is used as a coolant for the pump. Less fuel = less coolant
I try to always have gas before light comes on. I hate having to always have to have over half a tank, no other car has that issue. Horrible design and qaulity on Infiniti part.
SC is for reliability. Turbo is for modularity. Both are fun, both are great but turbo would be better option in my opinion. Amazing videos and just communicating with your viewers. This goes a long way!
@talhamohsin6195 definitely not haha, my new brakes and rotors are on the way. Just been dying to get some sort of race in, so I took wtv opportunity I could get.
I think I would've won a 50mph roll cause he would have to be in 3rd while I would've been in my perfect powerband in 2nd. I didn't wanna do 1st gear rolls, cause I'm not risking grinding 2nd anymore. The 2nd run I would've probably done better in first even though he was already top of 2nd. Good runs, I always have fun win or lose🤝.
Hey bro. My name is Sam. I’m new to this channel but I have and 2009 TL SH-AWD that has everything. We paid $77 k after it was all said and done. ( wife wanted seat movie screens and a in house hamming system that was used maybe 5 times. The car has 50 K, yup you heard right just 50K. Long story short was at the start we were taking it to Acura for the first 6-7years until they starting adding shady repairs every time it was in for maintenance. The they recommended I replace the timing belt and tensioner because it could go anytime. This was at like 20k. I’m not a damn mechanic so when your Acura tech tells you something like that and the repercussions are that you lose your engine if it does go ( but it could last for another 10 years he threw in). So that cost over $4000. Then because of moisture in the headlight housing and bulbs they would need to be replaced too ( this way about 2 years after timing belt) which cost $1800 each. Anyways after we left Acura we started taking it to fountain tire in ST Albert, AB here which was good at the start until they changed ownership then down hill again. I’m telling you this crap because we’re being told now that the knocking/tapping that comes and goes, (Comes when it’s just started and goes once it’s warmed up) is coming from the bottom of the engine so it needs a rebuilt engine, complete new one, or a second hand one. I think they don’t know what they’re talking about so I was hoping you might have some insight. Or can recommend somewhere near Edmonton or even Alberta. Sorry for long ramble but needed it to explain half of what’s going on. The wife drives that car like 20-30 kilometres a day and it has been babied so needless to say I want a few more years considering what we paid. Plus I love that car, black on black. My #780-700-3045. Phone or text if you can. It would be greatly appreciated.
