I am working on my pottery fame and sharing my work with you all. Here you get a chance to be entertained and explore the world of high fire pottery with me.
Very interesting. I like how you throw against the flexed metal kidney. One difference I notice in the way you work is that you keep your clay much wetter than I do. I feel like my pots would collapse if I did that. What type of clay do you use, and are you near the threshold of the walls collapsing, or do you feel they have plenty of margin? Wonderful shape, I will work on learning how to do that. Thanks!
I typically throw stoneware or porcelain. This here was porcelain. You mostly need to learn how your clay reacts. Stoneware has must more strength and less prone to collapse. One thing you can do is let it dry on the wheel for a few hours and come back to throw. This is almost a requirement when you start throwing pieces over 10 lbs.
Hi! I was wondering how you can get the base to also be round, i'm trying to make a spherical lid for a container and was just wondering how (or if) it's possible. Thank you!
So nice to see a potter be real about the reality of wheel throwing! A lot of pots fail during throwing, during trimming, or during firing. It’s just the reality of the art of pottery.
Thanks so much for this review! I’m currently taking courses at my local community college and I’m about to purchase one of these guys to make small stuff while I have free time at home. Real insightful
That was a great bit of throwing Could u advise me a little On pulling up the clay mine loses centre as it goes up, I'm struggling around 5" wonder if u might have advise
Nice work. It should go without saying but if anyone is making this for vinegar, juice, tea, soy sauce, wine... make sure the glaze is compatible with high acid or other caustic liquids. Any glaze with high levels of metal oxides or other ingredients like barium carbonate should never be used for acidic or caustic liquids as they can leach out of the glaze.
I did pottery for 4 years in high school and was the art department honor student my 4th year. Class of 85. I just got back into pottery with my own wheel now. Your narration is what a guy like me needs. Please don't stop narrating. It's helping me. Thanks in advance. Your very very good bye the way.
I so appreciate you giving us this advice. Your prices are very reasonable. I have a lot of pottery I have done and want to sell. You are inspiring me to now get it done. You have such a nice voice.
You should definitely get your pieces out there and if you are motivated to sell you will definitely get buyers. Pottery sells so well no matter what level you are at as long as they have some reasonable quality and aesthetic.
I made a 7 pound bowl yesterday. It is the biggest I have made so far. It took me a whole lot longer to throw than you do. This is a great video, and my bowl shape is quite similar to yours. You do beautiful work.
It's so satisfying to watch you throwing in real time, without quick cuts, annoying voiceover or sped up timing. Like, THIS is how long it actually takes to make this difficult (for beginners) form after you've mastered it. 👍
You can probably figure its about 80-90% labor costs. A 1lb or 2lb of clay depending on type is really only about $.50 to $1 for materials. Energy costs are not really much more than that.
You dont just throw faster on a whim, as you need to balance speed with what your actually throwing. I think this is a case of you not knowing what your talking about even if while technically true isn't an appropriate solution.
Do you have any other recommendations when it comes to bat systems? I’ve ran across Studio Pro & the Canadian made Bat Man bat systems, the latter of which is made in Ontario at a company called Amaranth (sp?). I have the 3D printed square that you reviewed here. I bought what was claimed to be 6” tiles tho in reality, their the 5 & 7/8ths. Out of the bat types I have, I prefer the Masonite type bats, altho I think I’d like regular cut wood bats if I could afford them. The plastic bats are the worse for me. I don’t like how they throw or how they feel on my hands. The trouble is many of my bats are warped from age despite being stored dry & sitting vertically. It is heartbreaking to see the price tags on bats these days. I might be more amenable to a higher price tag if there is a system that can stand up to a reasonable amount of time. Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Very cool to see how you price it all out and how much value you can get in one kiln. My kiln is the same size. I'm just starting to get into selling. What tops do you like to use for your oil pourer pots? The whole load looks great!
Isn’t it though? I had to toss out ones I had stored away from 18-20yrs ago. I should have done it sooner. These were also pieces that were not uniform, s cracks, bad glazing outcomes, & some that had never been fired. The latter weren’t nough to warrant an attempt at reclaiming since I throw a different clay type. I have been known to enjoy smashing unfired pots that didn’t turn out well. Something satisfying about those breaking noises. 😂🤣😂👍🏼
Hmm, I think this advice is sound where the local population had disposable income - if you live in an area where people are piss poor and can buy cups/mugs from charity shops then you may not find it easy to see a return for your investment.
I don't think its much of an issue like you suggest. I know and have seen a lot of potters who live in rural unincorporated towns with no money and are able to support themselves as full time potters. People will travel hours to buy pottery.
Beautiful! My pieces are always so bottom heavy..not sure what I’m doing wrong. There doesn’t seem to be any clay left to pull..bottom is square..yet when it dries and I can tell right away that it’s heavy..any thoughts?
Mostly I would suggest trying to push the clay along the wheelhead into your piece. So basically your pushing all the clay on the bottom in towards the center. Also test to see how thick your bottom is. That will help get more of that clay into the walls of your pot. Also if you have a thick bottom sometimes that is okay and can just be trimmed away when in your trimming phase.
The finished oil can is on the cover of your video but it is difficult to get a good look at it as the film rolls past it so fast. Anyway, I like green and other earth tone color of glazes. Is your fire electric?
The overhead view is useful, I can flip the laptop around and get a similar view to my own when i throw, thank you. I find it very tricky to do what you did with the rib in the left hand inside, nicely done :-)
There is a way to make a scoring tool out of a cork and several needles like for sewing. Anyway, they save a bit of time making score marks for attaching.
