Candy Shop Customs is one of the most famous shops that never existed; The name came about when a bunch of us were hanging out in the garage drinking some frosty beverages and listening to some 50cent...the rest they say is history! My name is J.D. I bought my first truck at age 15, and I've been lowering everything in sight since then, I've learned some do's and don'ts along the way and have been lucky enough to contribute back to the car and truck world with some Tech articles I did for Minitruckin' Magazine with a Lil Ol' Chevy Luv dubbed the "Junkyard Jewel" that we debuted at Sema2013. But we just call the truck Pedro. Hopefully we'll get to share some tips and tricks with you on some of our projects, and maybe help you guys figure out a few things on your own projects along the way!!! If all goes well I hope to post a video about once every Month or so. Give us a follow, and post your Positive comments!!!
Doing this on a 5.4 Triton. Did one that was broken below flush and it worked alright but now on the other side it’s tougher. Massive strut tower in the way, no room for my head to get in there and see with a helmet on lol and I’m using a stick. About to grab some insanely expensive UniChrom rods and try that
@@jedlowdually ya that was the only way I could do it on this one too. Ended up getting it done with the Stud X-Tract electrodes but it was a miserable experience
Yeah i suck at this lol. Trying to do it at home with a harbor freight welder on an iron block. Everything has broken off. Tried changing voltage and wire speed
What welder are you using? Wire type, gas etc...? I would love to try this for extracting bolts in aluminum blocks. Don't want to make the wrong investment!
@pingpong9656 Yeah I just use whatever I have in the machine depending if I was welding sheet metal or thicker stuff. Heat is your primary concern, if .023 is too cold maybe try .030 or something heavier, not that big a deal
It's an awesome method when you have all the tools but in my experience it always happens to people who try to change parts at home to save money but end up with broken bolts and tears of rage. DIY car repair is nightmare fuel sometimes.
@@jedlowdually I see your joke of course but it's the context of your video. Your viewer seems excited at learning how. You didn't have to "teach them" but would've been funnier if you implied how you could go about it & then gave up & said "You know what? Actually this is easier. *Replaces it*"
I posted the fix in another vid. But I didn't have a new grommet so I just cleaned the opening and grommet and sealed it with RTV (silicone) and let it set up for 24h before filling the washer fluid.
Just be careful as has been mentioned here in the comments, there are 2 styles of drive shaft, one you can take apart like mine and replace the steady bearing, and another that is NOT possible to take apart. U-joints on either style are non servicable.
These outer exhaust manifold bolts tend to sheer off on their own after a couple hundred thousand miles due to the thermal expansion of the manifold...pretty common
Nope, you can do this without the washer. The washer just helps if the broken bolt is a bit below the surface so you're losing too much heat welding to the nut.
@@jedlowdually I might have to do this tomorrow. My crankshaft position sensor bolt broke in the block and it’s basically flush. Also broke a extractor in the drilled bolt, hopefully it goes well like your vid 😅
@@alexward8596 If it's a cast block, here's a little trick so the weld doesn't stick to the block. Paint the area around the broken bolt with liquid paper. That'll prevent the weld from sticking.
@alexward8596 Good luck. Depending how comfortable you are Mig welding it might take a few tries to get it to stick, but this method almost always works for me.
