After an hour of frustration, I cleaned out the screw hole by gently hand-turning an M4 tap in and out of the hole until it was clean. It only took me a few minutes.
FWIW, the F in FDM stands for “Fused”. The temperature of the layer below should momentarily reach Tg when the next layer goes down, at least on its outermost 10-30%. If it doesn’t, you’re not extruding hot enough. Annealing at or above Tg makes this more thorough and consistent, as well as “releasing residual stresses” caused by the extruding process, making the part stronger at the expense of possibly altering its geometry. These changes should happen in predictable and repeatable ways, so if you’re making extruded plastic parts, the shape of the hole in your template is different to the final shape. I can’t say I’m an expert on these topics but overall, nice video and story telling. I didn’t expect you to rebuild your whole toolhead from scratch, but sure, why not! Also nice to describe all the extra steps that are needed when you do that to make sure the replaced toolhead works properly.
Laminar flow is not good for heat transfer. That’s common knowledge (as in very apparent when googling). As others said, the laminar flow refers to the movement of the air through the ducts (which I believe is more efficient, but I’ve never seen data showing how effective it is). When laminar flow is mentioned, it’s only referring to air movement, not heat transfer. I can go more in depth into why turbulent flow is better for heat transfer if you’d like, but it is just a google search. The short summary is in turbulent flow, there’s chaotic motion, particles ramming into everything (how heat is transferred). In laminar flow, there are these boundary layers, where sheets of fluid move parallel to each other, with little interaction between the layers. Hope that makes sense
@@SpencersDesk what's crazy to me is that you actually read my comment without even stopping to think about it for just 1 second. you instantly went to google. yes i know how heat transfer works and yes i know that turbulent flow is better for heat transfer (i've never said otherwise). i made fun of the fact that you said "laminar flow is a buzzword" as if it's something made up out of thin air. instead of copy pasting, do your research and then make a video explaining. hope this helps
I'm so glad the SV06 Klipper upgrade did all this work for me. Just consult the manual for mount locations, print a clip for the bed then screw the provided sensor to the toolhead and run the configurator for X, then attach the sensor to the bed clip, put it where it goes, run the configurator for Y and done.
Do yourself a favor and buy a set of feeler gauges and use those to set your Z offset. You want to be just touching the feeler gauge and then you can subtract the thickness of the gauge (I use the 0.3 on my set because its easier to see.) when you configure your Z-offset and then your printer knows EXACTLY where the bed is and you wont have to eyeball anything.
I’m personally part of the school of thought that believes Z offset is better done visually. My reference is Ellis’s 3d tuning guide. I’m also not sure how gauges work on a textured bed? I just don’t know what z offset leads to a perfect first layer. If I knew it was .2 mm or something, I’d definitely go with your method!
I think it was more for people in colder weather.i am looking for a complete enclosure with a fume extractor.i found a few online that are affordable but your video brought up something I overlooked. The USB stick.i never measured the printer with the stick in it.thanks for the video.
There is a usb extension cable that comes with it, so that could work! I think in colder weather you’re still going to need active heating, like a fermentation belt. I think I mentioned in the video that you want warm resin, not warm air around the resin? I still like it, I just think it’s not a standalone product, ya know? Made a video about the flex plate, I’m also a big fan!
Pretty sure that is a PS-SP11625 "Aliexpress" version with a "meanwell" sticker on it An real LRS-350-24 is 3cm thick good luck with the 2.5cm fan :P (oh and it has fan control it goes higher and lower on the temperature :P I use a LRS-450-24 with two 92cm fans :P
Someone's probably already said it, but I can't find anyone saying it, so I'm going to: Hero Me Gen 5 (and maybe 6, I dont remember when he switched to heat press inserts...) uses captive nuts, just like you suggested. it's still readily available on all the major 3d printable file hosting siites.
Quick questio, but kinda complex. Is there any way to combine input shaping results from the accelerometer on both the head and bed for one axis and input shape based on both resonance values combined? I know the values are far lower for X on bed for example, but would there be value in compensating for that as well? Just a thought.
I’m not 100% sure I understand your question. Do you mean, take measurements on both the head and the bed separately then combine them together? Or are you referring to the head having resonance in the x, y, and z and compensating for each of those?
@@SpencersDesk Yes taking readings on both and combining. As in, combine the X reading for both bed and head measurements and apply it to X movement and same for Y reading and the bed. It's probably just not significant enough to worry about.
Whenever I cut PTFE tube, especially when being used as a 'liner' for a direct drive setup or a holding stub to wedge into the hotend for some bowden hacks, I've found it's super useful to gently ream the ends into a taper with a sharp drill-bit. It's important not to overdo this on the hot-end side, leave a lip all around so it can structurally seat, that side helps with cold-pulls, on the top side, a slightly more aggressive taper, helps keep inserted filament from getting caught on the edge whenever putting a new color in.
Good video. On the laminar flow topic, that would pertain to the flow inside the ducting. Once the air leaves the duct and starts to run into things, it will quickly turn into turbulent flow. The laminar flow inside the duct will definitely increase output of air at the nozzle. While I'm not a cooling expert, I am a Mechanical Engineer. We had to study this topic in fluid power and thermodynamics. Using a flow software such as Ansys would show the improvement to output. I know there are some alternatives and even a free online software that Teaching Tech has a video about how to use it.
Yeah, I’m just a baby, perspective ME but I’ve been trying to create “laminar” flow for a laser nozzle but it’s been, challenging. In order to achieve laminar flow (sub 2k Reynolds Number) at the current flow rate, the nozzle orifice would have to be 70mm, rather than 2mm. I’m just shooting for MORE laminar flow though, and there’s already a massive amount of improvement with the nozzle designed by Nervous System. I’m now trying to constrain the paths more and design based on air characteristics rather than water in the super soaker based design. All that to say, fluid dynamics is hard :(
Generally not a good idea to use a resistor divider for a voltage, unless you know exactly how much power the load will draw and that it will always draw that power. A better choice would be to replace the lower resistor with a zener diode and use a smaller resistor for the upper, to match the zener’s design current. Even better is a simple linear dropout regulator (LDO), or a switching regulator. There are many small ones available.
I definitely prefer using LDOs but I wasn’t keen on waiting for anything I ordered haha. This worked in a pinch and I haven’t had problems with it since, thankfully! Good info, thanks
What do the screw terminals marked M Power (HV +) (Gnd) do? Are they input for separate power to stepper motors? The manual does not make this clear... I am reluctant to poer them from the 24V PSU
Yes, there is an input for the motherboard, and an input where you can have a different voltage for the motors. If you choose to use the motor input as well, make sure to add the jumpers. There’s a section in the manual about that
I don't understand how this thing could work correctly when the print head has to move along the z axis. There should be a great difference in resonances when the head is at z=0 and z- in the middle point of maximum travel distance
The answer to this lies in the input shaper you choose. When you look at the graphs, they show the input shapers having these large humps. This means if that peak frequency shifts to the left or the right, the input shaping algorithm will still be covering that frequency range. If you choose an input shaper that only corrects for your peak frequencies, yes it would be a problem. But, most algorithms have those humps, which makes it robust against changes. For example, the beds on bed slingers typically use the ei algorithm as it is robust to change. This means input shaping will continue to work even as the bed becomes heavier as plastic is added. Hope that helps explain it a bit!
Personally, I don’t think I’d use the hero me system with a prusa printer. They’re very nice machines. I think you’d be better suited with a prusa specific mod! Why do you want to use the hero me?
@@SpencersDesk sometimes I get a layer curling on a small sharp corner that is above the first layer, some edges or angles/corners have different shrinkage and makes that section weird looking and not sharp, not sharp sharp, but a clean edge not getting a clean edge on some areas.
I appreciate your work on the topic. Unfortunately, this only applies to one printer model. For me - a Delta owner - this information is only a theory.
While I respect the work and research of the hero me contraption I have always thought it looked too bulky and overboard for what it does. I like simple designs, this is the complete opposite.
The data sheets show they push about the same amount of air. I think the culprit is the fan guard on the noctua! Another commenter told me that noctua has made 4x10 fans at 24V for 3d printing so that’s the direction I’m going!
It is midnight so I don't have time to watch the whole video, but today I learned that my part cooling was too good. I was getting crazy warping and delamination with PLA at 230 C and it turns out the my blower fans I mounted are cranked WAY too high, I didn't know that could even happen with PLA. I printed test prints at 75,50,25, and 0 percent speed and it turns out the best is 50% with good layer lines and good adhesion. Now I can finally print vase mode.
Very helpful vid. I was thinking i'm lazy and it would be great if I can just leave the pi pico on the machine, but my raspberry pi3a runs hot and I'm concerned about the power draw. So I was wondering if I could connect my pico through a U2C [usb to can already takes power from the power supply so shouldn't strain raspi] converter with canboot and plug pico into that. I'm assuming the pin callout would look different, but also like would it be possible.
Hey, as for the soldering you did here 23:46 - I don't even own a soldering iron (yet), but on "college" we learn to solder somewhat. AFAIK you are meant to put the cable on the metal pad and heat both at the same time, and then put the solder wire on so it melts right on top. If you heat the wire on the air, it (sometimes) creates blobs. Cheers!
Great video and great info shared thanks. What do you think about this cooling solution? less bulky, weight saving as well, cheaper and I might be biased but it looks awesome ru-vid.com5hCnzWzlSWo?feature=share
For anyone buying a soldering iron, considering getting a pinecil instead. It's around $25 and it's better then most irons in every way. Also you can buy a tool from CNC kitchen that also fits into this made for heat inserts. It's open source as well, can be used with USB-PD.
My bone stock Ender3v2 can do the pin support challenge no problem, even the sphere. Only tried it with PLA tho. Overhangs at 65° look really solid. I'm considering switching to the Mini Satsana cuz it's super simple and doesn't need extra parts. Hopefully the bi-directional cooling is an actual improvement over stock.
Interesting. I just ordered a big pack of inserts and a dedicated setting tip for my iron a few hours before finding this video. Unsure if I'll go this route with the new hotend I ordered though
Thats not correct.. laminar flow is very important 3 ways. 1) getting as laminar as possible airflow reduces most of the air noise you here. this is aided by not reducing the overal surface area of the air "exit" at the nozzle. Here it is actually beneficial to reduce the overall surface area vs the fans exhaust since this is increasing velocity and we only need the air in a very little area anyway so its very important to make the airflow as smooth flowing as possbile to not get additional noise from turbulence. 2) you want to avoid turbulence because even slight turbulence can reduce the efficency by 30% or more. With efficiency is ment the reduction in air velocity. Air is not water - so air can be compressed. Reduced velocity basically introduces backpressure in random places which can slow down airspeed even more. Most of us know this effect .. you can increase fanspeed on any restrictive device but at some point there is so much turbulence and backpressure that with increased speed there is not any additional air coming out. 3) Both style fans have a very limited ability to deal with pressure. There tollerances are so big - i mean look at the airgap between fanblades and housing - that if you introduce pressure its getting very likely that you start recirculating air in that gap and also air will use every other gap it finds to leak out reducing the pressure but also effectivly killing your cooling solution as it wont go through the restriction you want it to go through. Always keep in mind that air is a "bitch" it never wants to go where you want it to go. So getting laminar flow of air when its not a straight line is actually a big deal
These are some valid points, but I believe that they apply to larger systems. I think at these small scales, it really doesn’t change anything. I also stand by the point that turbulent flow is more efficient at cooling surfaces. It doesn’t matter if you’re more efficiently getting air to something you want to cool if it then doesn’t cool as efficiently. Again, I’d like to see the simulations he discusses having done (through a friend) to really believe it
@@SpencersDesk but you actually iterated over the point that we want cooling only at the nozzle. Because we want the molten plastic to instantly solidify but stay as gooey as possible for as long as possible. Turbulences will make the air go everywhere uncontrollable so not desirable for our use case. And again we want good cooling at minimal noise so it does matter. And then from the other way around.. if we have laminar flow and we make a slightly decreasing diameter funnel which increases air velocity(only if it's laminar flowing air) we can get decent cooling with much less rpm which in returns is quieter again. As soon as air leaves the ducting it will get turbulent instantly anyways which creates most of the noise you can hear. I did a fanmod by myself and iterating over the funnels was very tedious to get to a design thats flowing well with minimal noise created as even at full blast a 5015 fan is basically silent until you add any form of ducting
@lamarcdesign I still think Larymi at flow is not there. The environment under the nozzle is constantly changing as the part is printed and there’s no way to guarantee a laminar flow. It is more than likely turbulent no matter how you design things, just the nature of the system. I can’t say I’ve ever heard a fan that’s silent at full blast, on or off of a duct. I still believe laminar flow is important through the ducts, but not at the part air interface, where turbulent is much more efficient to cool
@@SpencersDesk i only ever ment in the duct. It would be complete marketing bullshit if anyone claims he can achieve laminar flow in free air and I'm sure that's not really what heroMe is trying to 'sell'. It's only that within the duct it's laminar. Many printable part cooling solutions this is not the case and is hurting efficient performance alot so they need to throw much more rpm at the fan then would be necessary for the resulting cooling performance with an flow optimized duct. That's what I ment and that's probably why heroMe is making some buzz about it. And it's correct.. comparing some of my earlier designs to where I am right now I get basically the same amount of air at much lower rpm then the earlier designs and this is straight forward linked to how laminar I could make the air flow through the ducting
@SpencersDesk Vez3D situation. They killed his project Goliath with a bullshit patent. They patented something that even isn't their idea. The patent is bullshit because it covers every way of solid connection between hot block and cool zone that isn't a heatbreak tube that feeds the filament to the melt zone. Stuff like this was invented in RepRap times and used by Creality long before the slice engineering hot end was invented. To make situation even worse, options of opposition were half the price with exactly the same performance, but the patent blocks any kind of competition, and you can't buy anything else than SE hotend right now. So they forced monopoly, destroyed a project of really talented inventor, and are charging double the price for stuff that you could buy before and isn't even their invention. I hate them for life. They can't compete, so they just block the competition, blocking progression and making a problem for everyone.
@@riba2233 It shouldn't hold in the court, but somehow it does. Look. They canceled Vez3D project because he was making a stiff connection between heat block and cool zone, other than the heat-brake itself, in his prototype. He was trying to get around it by using screws and different stuff, but no mater what he used they said that it is copying their idea. Meanwhile Creality CR10 is having exact same connection using two screws. Why they have not sued Creality for stealing their idea then? Because they know they won't win this in court, because Creality did it first.
I thought that the partial air from HeroMe fan duct will hit the silicone sock and that will change the direction of the air flow. And this is why I removed HeroMe gen7.4 from my ender 3 and designed my own fan duct for my own setup. I personally hate Hero Me. BUT this is the only video that explains how to set the part cooling fan settings on Orca slicer (prusa) so thank you! I had no idea how to adjust those min fan max fan settings.
I think the water test I show was enough for me to believe the air is going the correct direction. I do wish, at least in my setup, the the mosquito was turned 90 degrees so the ducts wouldn’t be so close to the silicone sock. I definitely think the hero me isn’t for everyone! I’m personally planning to move away from it when I’ve got time to do some of my own design. I’m glad you got some use from the video!!
