tricking out my print head (Mosquito, Orbiter, CAN + more!!) 

What kind of mods are you planning to add to your printers?

Haha, the simulated sound effects are top class. Great video

Just today I was enthusing to my son about how I was thinking of frankensteining an old i3 clone I have (which has good bones). He tried to pour cold water on my noodling by pointing out that I already don't use my Voron fulltime. So I'm out here reviewing crazy project videos to keep my momentum going :-). That toolhead is awesome, it's like the frame just exists to support the toolhead.

The outro music is my favorite part of this video!

just subscribed to your channel mate😊 a Pro Tip: use same or more capable current (amp) output LDO instead of voltage divider series of resistors😉 it will be more professional but don't forget to add source to 100nF tantalum capacitor to 470uF and then to LDO then 100nF tantalum again to 470uF capacitor voltage regulation and filtering circuit😉

Ouff. Hello. I just woke up to you talking about 3D printer upgrades. Fell asleep and RU-vid decided I needed to learn something different today and chose your channel 😂 I will rewatch because I was sleeping the first time. Oh wow. You’ve just implanted a ton of new ideas into my head. Had no idea what CAN was, very intriguing. How do you like the direct drive vs Bowden? On my old printer direct just worked no issues but it was loud because the whole assembly was so heavy. Bowden made it more accurate and way more silent but also so much harder to get (and keep) running

Hey Spencer! I just found your channel and fits me perfectly because I want to make those exactly mods to my Kobra Go lol Can you recommend me a crimper for making Dupont and JST connectors? thanks!

Hello :) Planning out my hotend remake! Do you think the btt EBB36 would work? - For three fans, the hotend, and a probe. Also, I'm planning on using the new btt EDDY coil levelling sensor which runs on 5v. Do I need to modify the voltage from the CAN board like you did in the video?

Generally not a good idea to use a resistor divider for a voltage, unless you know exactly how much power the load will draw and that it will always draw that power. A better choice would be to replace the lower resistor with a zener diode and use a smaller resistor for the upper, to match the zener’s design current. Even better is a simple linear dropout regulator (LDO), or a switching regulator. There are many small ones available.

6:33 It's most likely caused by the motion system instead of the print head. Check out resonance compensation of the klipper firmware. Also I would suggest you to enclose your printer. ASA/ABS filament will either wrap badly or have abysmal layer adhesion when being printed without an enclosure. Enclosure also help at reduce the smell and noise while printing.

that boy is thicc! Is there any loss of Y-axis build volume? im thinking of having a similar build on ender 3. But my concern is that having ebb42 behind the extruder might reducing the Y-axis volume

Love this. Which BL touch mount did you use? I'm doing a similar setup on my vyper

Simple question! Where can I find the 5015 fans you used, and what fan would you use if it shouldn't be the noctua in the middle? (So i dont need a buck converter)

I hope PCTG catches on but right now it's over twice the cost of PETG so right now either PETG or ABS for me until more companies start making and competing with PCTG.

Hello :) I'm getting ready for modding my Vypers hotend myself, and I'm about to print the Hero Me print head. I'm exited but confused. There is so many files, and I'm quite honestly getting overwhelmed. I hope you can help me by listing what parts you have printed for your system to work. Of course my final version will be different, but you could still help me get an idea on where to start as I will only be changing a couple things on your design. I'm planning on using the stock hotend (for now). 2x 5015 part cooling fans. 1x 4010 fan for heat sink cooling. (Or whatever the stock on the Vyper is?) A mount for the orbiter extruder with an EBB board on the back of it. And a mount for an endoscope and a btt eddy sensor. Thanks in advance :D

Spencer, I am pretty sure this is the only RU-vid video about installing Orbiter on Vyper. How do I know? I searched. A lot. I am running a freakishly similar upgrade process and encountering all the roadblocks as the ones you have discovered... My Vyper initially was upgraded with an all-metal hotend (Revo Six) and a HeroMe - based part cooling setup for dual 5015 fans. This upgrade already solved so many Vyper problems! The stock Volcano hotend tends to "ooze" a lot of filament, hence the stringing. The bowden tube tends to be burned after a few months, contributing to the clogs. After the upgrade, I was super happy with PETG printing, getting almost no stringing. I am yet to switch to Klipper on the Vyper, but already have MainsailOS prepared and set up on a Pi... Now comes Orbiter 2.0. I really wanted a direct drive setup to reliably print flexibles and have more control over pressure advance, etc. I printed all the necessary HeroMe 7 parts to install Orbiter. The first problem happened during the assembly. Not sure if it's a issue with Hero Me 7 1.0, or whether it was designed for an older Vyper, but Orbiter didn't mount because of lack of clearance from the massive printhead connector. I eventually realised that it only needed ~2 extra mm of clearance, so used m3 nuts as extra "raisers / washers" to move both the hotend (actually, the strain gauge itself) and the HeroMe unit away from the gantry. Finally, it has mounted! Now to the saddest part... As you mentioned, the strain gauge is not designed to work with direct drive. This rigid setup pretty much prevents it from bending and registering the probe touching the plate. My first attempt at auto bed leveling left a series of deep dents in my plate... Now I was wondering whether I could squeeze in BlTouch and how on Earth would I find extra pins on this print head for that... And here comes your video. Yes we CAN! I will start ordering some parts tonight... Once again, a massive thank you! I would have shared photos of my setup, but I don't think it's possible on RU-vid. But happy to chat if you would like to discuss the Vyper. PS: Maybe, instead of the rollers, you should consider linear rails as a more robust / precise motion system? PPS: Also, I don't think your problem was with stepper drivers, as the upgrade should not have touched them?

I found that TMC2209's skip steps really easily in stealthchop mode if you try printing fast. I run mine in spreadcycle and they never skip steps for me at extreme speeds.

I blew my E3S1 breakout board and could repair it, but lost my part cooling fan control. The cheapest way to replace the breakout board in my area is the ebb boards. Seeing your video gives me a lot more confidence to replace my burnt board. I had many questions like what wires to use and can I add another adxl to do input shaping for both axes,etc. After seeing you go through the whole process, the procedure seems less daunting.

You need to adjust your vref for you stepper motor s that’s why your having issues with stepper drivers overheating. You need an umbilical cable with four 20 AWG conductors with one twisted pair.

You definitely should NOT twist the power wires around your CAN comes wires. The power wires on 3d printers are extremely noisy due to the stepper motors which can easily couple over to your comms if you wrap it like that. Also, the voltage divider used to get 3 volts isn't a good idea. The voltage isn't going to be stable and will move up and down with the current draw. You should instead use a level shifter circuit to shift the 3v logic upto 5v.

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