Really well done and thorough explanation of how to do this. I'm a novice just looking to take care of an apartment wall, but you already made me feel like this task wont be as daunting as i originally thought.
How about piping on the floor that would be behind the cabinet? Can I cut the base board on the back? I also have a shut off valve that I would need to keep exposed in case I need to shut off the water
I have a Zircon Studsensor but it will not work in my garage but neither will tapping so I'm ASSuming they have plywood behind it?? (I'm not a handyman). Any tips for garages with no outlets or windows on the wall? I also don't see any nail or screw marks.
I use a small masonry drill bit. It goes through drywall but not wood well, so you'll know when you hit wood. The wall could be concrete or concrete block.
Using water-based primer on MDF is fine, been doing it for years. Unless you're buying extremely cheap MDF, you should only have to sand it once and every finish after that should be smooth
What do you have between the countertop and wall of where the backsplash is going? I see the cover but is there something specific you are using to cover the back bottom edges? Thanks!
Im not a professional tiler im a carpenter/joiner but I usually tile the floor and walls after ive installed the kitchen, and I used to grout the way you have just done and i wandered why my joints sunk and even grout pushed in or fell out, until my professional tiling mate tiled a kitchen for me and the worst thing you can do is to go diagonally or in the same direction as the joints, You should go across the joints so that the squeegee flicks the grout through the joints and fills the joints completely and wraps round the back of the tiles and then it can't fall out and especially if water gets through it will run down the back of the tiles and cause damp and then the tiles come loose, especially in a shower,
How would it wrap around the back of the tile? Unless you don't have enough coverage? You need to pack the grout in but how can you wipe subway tile off without going diagonal? Up and down or left to right there are grout joints. Sounds like you were mixing too wet or too dry. Or using crappy or pre-mixed grout like the stuff from HD
Without seeing the holes it is hard to say. You can try the spackling and see if it dries. You can use a hair dryer to help if it's not drying or drying too slowly.
How would this door hold up against forceful entry not counting the hollow out door itself like mounting hardware and locking latch? Could it be swapped with a solid wood door assuming extra work involved to fit track.
I had to make some custom brackets but their are some available online. I screwed the brackets to the framing of the trailer and siliconed everything so it's water tight.
Thanks, Bud. I was about to build an entire structure to support them while I remove them. I didn’t know you could do it in tiny sections. Yes, I am dumb. Have a good one🎉
It's tricky to not make a mess. We usually just tape areas off. Clean it up with water before it gets too dry. Try a paint brush to spread it. Maybe I will make a vid in the future. Thanks for watching!
It will depend on the tiles and how tight they fit together. A lot of subway tiles don't need spacer so you are probably fine. Make sure you use an unsanded grout
I would maybe do do different holes. The holes may be a bit too loose. You could stick a toothpick or something in the old holes if you need to reuse them.
@@BrentDarlington thanks, makes sense yeah. Also I guess if you wanted to change the floor later on the subfloor would be ruined by the glue and would also need replacing.
I didn't mask my plugs, Years ago.When that 110 comes through that wet sponge it will shock the living shit out of you,And you will never leave tape off your plugs again!
