If some tantalum capacitors have failed then more will almost certainly follow and given how much damage they can do I'd personally replace all of them on all the drives, they're notorious for failing after several years use. To remove them carefully use hot air gently bringing the board up to temperature without scorching it (practice on scrap boards), not the iron and clean the pads with desolder wick, those suckers can pull pads off the board particularly surface mount pads and I NEVER use them. Just look at the remaining good drives to identify blown parts. solder the new parts using hot air and they'll pull themselves straight due to surface tension. "Self fluxing" enamel wire is best, you don't need to strip it, just solder through the enamel.
Thanks for the heads up and tips! Going on 3 months now without any new issues, so fingers crossed I won't have to replace the caps just yet. Its also my understanding that even the newest servo drives are all plug and play.
@@RocanMotor Trouble is with tants it when you have to replace them because they've finally failed they often do so much damage that repair isn't viable and it's not expensive or even a long job with practice.
Excited for seeing some chips on the haas. Sorry to hear about the job, but happy to know you're pursuing a passion. Can't wait for some more videos. All the best.
Thank you Luke! We are getting close to running now. In a few weeks I'll be posting a rebuild of my Tool Grinder- it's an Agathon Style, E. Hofmann, Suisse Made.
It's best to check the directions of the epoxy being used and to confirm that you can meet the torque and fastener size suggested by the lift manufacturer. In my experience most epoxies allow for higher torque values than an equivalent sized expanding anchor.
I always suggest following manufacturer suggestions. All of the anchoring epoxies I've used specify using studs of the correct size and sizing+cleaning the bore correctly before applying epoxy. Generally this results in a pullout strength that greatly exceeds that of an expanding anchor. Many expanding anchor instructions caution against using epoxy with them, though I have heard of people combining both. Imho either expanding anchors or epoxy are viable options so long as the concrete is prepared correctly and manufacturer instructions are followed. This lift has been installed a few years now and I've experienced zero torque loss in any stud- I can't say the same of expanding anchors I've used in the past. When I did public works we exclusively used anchoring epoxy- far too many failures with expanding anchors over time.
Thank you!! I'm wrapping up the video showing the board repair and HL-1 Startup- it may be a few weeks, but do stay tuned! Lots of big changes coming to the channel- moving forward Rocan Motor Company will be my full-time job, so plenty of content to come!
I doubt you’ll ever pull more than 30 amps with your vf2. In my experience power requirements are over rated. Also with a properly designed phase converter, start-up with capacitors wouldn’t be a problem with a motor of this size.
I'm my testing of the VF-2SS so far I'd agree. Regarding the capacitor start, the current draw for a motor this size was in the 300 A range, supposedly, which I hadn't confirmed through any math of my own. That's for a brief moment of course, and likely okay, but I had the pony handy so this seemed simpler at the time.
Thank you! I tallied it all up and the final cost was roughly $800 for everything. That includes just about everything except for the 4/0 quadruplex cable to connect it all. The motors were free as was the steel for the frame. 40hp rotary phase converters generally are $5000 or more, so overall I'm happy. A smaller unit can be built for much cheaper- the pulleys required for the large motor for example are roughly 25% of the cost, and the large contactor was another 25%.
Do you leave the pony motor belt connected after start? Others I have seen use an idler pully connected to a lever so the belts can be slackened after start, think clutch.
I considered an electromagnetic clutch, similar to an AC compressor in a car, but ultimately opted to keep it simple and left the belt turning whenever the system runs. The losses are negligible.
The bigger motor may have a threaded plug on the bottom side of the bearing bell ends that you greased. Take those bottom plugs out when greasing and the old grease and bearing wear particles will get pushed out of the motor.
I'll have to check! I appreciate the comment, I was looking for a second port/ for the grease to come out but didn't see one. Didn't cross my mind to look underneath. Thank you!
To all those watching- We had some mic issues filming this, but on our next video we have improved our audio greatly with some new mics and some changes to our post processing. Thanks for tuning in!
Thank you Joe!! I say give it a shot with a smaller 3 phase motor. A phase converter this large is a bit daunting (and deadly), but the same principles apply to all 3 phase motors and with some research and planning you could have a working phase converter in a weekend. Also, it doesn't need to be expensive- local ads (marketplace, craigslist, etc) turn up free 3 phase motors and components all the time.
Thank you!! It's slow going, but we are working hard on the video showing the rotary phase converter that powers this lathe. After that is done, well release a video showing this lathe getting up and running!
Those are crap and give nothing but problems in the long run. Get a pigtail lead instead. Solder the joints and heatshrink if you want it to be a pro job.
Solder joints shouldn't be used in high vibration environments. I agree though, a pigtail with a properly crimped and heat shrunk joint is a more robust solution. With that said, this has presented zero issues so far since I installed it.
@@dabooge the various circuit boards absolutely use solder, but solder joints for wiring connections are strongly discouraged. The boards are secured well and are not prone to brittle failure like a wiring connection is. Honestly, I can't think of any oems employing solder joints in the wiring harness. I'm curious if you have seen any oems use solder joints. In my time working as an aerospace and automotive mechanical engineer, crimp joints have always been favored and what is reccomended by SAE and other governing boards. With that said, a soldered joint, when properly supported won't necessarily fail, as your experience has shown.
Thank you!! It's an extremely busy month for us- walls are getting closed up this week, and we've got a really large, 8000lb surprise coming very soon!
I left the factory installed Forward-Reverse switch in place, mounted the VFD on a wall behind the mill, and wired the VFD 3 phase output directly to the Forward-Reverse switch. Followed by building and installing (at a convenient place on the mill) a remote-control panel equipped with Start/Stop and Speed Control potentiometer. Followed by programming the VFD for remote control per VFD instructions. The reason for leaving the forward reverse drum switch in place and wiring the VFD to it, was to prevent having to change the forward reverse switch direction on the remote panel when changing from low to high speed operation (which changes spindle rotation). When changing from low to high speed operation (or vice-versa), reverse the drum switch position, leaving the Forward Reverse switch on the remote panel unchanged.
That's a really nice way of doing it! You also can't beat the solid feeling of the oem directional switch. In the past I had wall mounted all of my vfds and then would have my controls on a mount within easy reach. With this shop I have been trying to make everything easily movable, so I'm trying to machine mount all controls so that I can simply unplug, roll to a new spot and plug it back in. I will be building a new control station for the bridgeport with forward reverse, e stop, speed pot, and some additional controls for an upcoming addition to this mill that's secret at the moment. At the time of recording, I just needed to get the mill running to aid in getting the shop built. Thanks for watching!
This kind of lift stuff is way over my head.. aha. Jokes aside, its very nice seeing you realize your passion. Super funny how it perfectly fits beneath your rafters. Sick, man. 🤘🚗
Excited to see what you have in store. I joined your channel from your CNC lathe and Bridgeport mill videos. I was hooked by your attention to detail and your engineering knowhow. Thanks for posting these. They are fantastic.
Apologies for the audio later in this video! We had a microphone failure- hopefully the new camera footage towards the end helps make up for it! Lots of improved content coming soon!!
I was going to built a new pole barn, buy a bigger air compressor and a new Mohawk lift. What a bad idea. I sold all my tools and bought a new truck with a five year extended warranty. Life is good !
After seeing HowNot2's pull tests on similar rock bolts I'd call epoxy anchors super good enough as long as they're installed to the manufacturer's specs.
Thank you! I give McMaster a ton of business- the speed and convenience are too hard to pass up on, even if there is a slight premium to be paid. The parametric models they provide are jusr phenomenal, especially when if hardware changes are necessary. A find and replace works 95% of the time- that feature alone has saved me countless hours of effort.
