This channel is for entertainment purposes only. The thoughts and views expressed here are not for the purpose of educating but to entertain.
I am not responsible for any harm or death that befalls someone for attempting anything I've said or done.
Follow any advice, instructions, suggestions said or recorded at your own risk.
With that said, I'm intending to document and share my experiences as I start a new chapter in life.
In June 2022, I've decided to become a little more "stationary". I've been traveling since 2020, but with the price of diesel, (and everything else), skyrocketing, I've decided to park the RV for a bit and start a new hobby/career.
I have no training on the equipment or software I'll be using you will be watching the learning curve. I intend to offer the items I create for sale on hobowithwood.com.
Hope you find this entertaining, and we all enjoy the ride.
In regards to a middle initial. If you have an empty cell in your cover file, it should not put a space in the middle initial spot unless there is a space in that field.
Hi Steve, I purchased the file on your website a while ago. I loved it. It was so easy to cut and assemble. Thanks for all that you teach. I am curious how do you edit the file to score only the attached text? I have been cracking my brain on how to accomplish it. I appreciate your time and effort.
It is a process. It requires positioning all the text without welding the text. Creating overlapping letters side-to-side and top and bottom. Once the desired position is achieved, make duplicates. Select one of the duplicates and turn on welded text. This will weld the individual words. Then, you will need to use the Boolean tools to weld the words together. Now you have the base for the design. Now, use duplicates and the Boolean tools to create the desired lines. The lines go on a cut layer in line mode to engrave them. The base goes on a cut layer. It's a little work. The toughest is orienting the words. Varying font size and height of different words.
@@HoboWithWood Thanks Steve, You are amazing. I'm pretty much doing that now. I was hoping there was an easier way. Well my consolation is I only have to do it once. LOL
Thanks, we finally figured it out at the end. That's what I love about working with a community. We fumbled and bumbled until we found the right outcome.
That was a feature I didn't know existed. Lightburn continues to impress me with its available features. This is excellent, I can think of things I can use this for besides tumblers. Thanks for the video!
Thank You Steve, as my grandson says; You’re the GOAT, Greatest of All Time. I am very grateful for all the studying you do so you can teach the rest of us.
Thanks Steve, I was just trying to work out some veneer inlays. 8 separate pieces of veneer into one inlayed cut-out. As my trial was not to my satisfaction, now I no why you have just saved me a load of work. Cheers Ian
I basically understood kerf but when you used the carpenter cutting the piece of wood on the line examples, that really hit home for me. Why did you only reference diode lasers? I have a CO2.
@HoboWithWood Thanks. Another question, on one of your videos, you referenced not caring for the XTool. What small portable laser (that will engrave wood and metal) do you recommend?
Awesome video. So much to remember. And those that say "oh it's just a laser...how hard can it be? Why do you charge what you do??" Well, they just don't know .
No need to. If you could, it would only have a positive outcome when cutting straight lines, like cutting a box with tabs. You can get the same result by turning your design so that all the lines are cut at 45 degree angle. No straight lines. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4tjwCeIa1rs.html
You can't put 10lbs of crap in a 5lb bag. But if you need the 10lbs, you get a bigger bag. If a smaller box is out of the question to get a "perfect" kerf, then you get a larger piece of material.
Was thinking about this subject this morning. What if you bought a file from testy, let's save the Lord's prayer wood cross. You have no idea on what laser it was designed for. Maybe it was a 30w diode and you just bought a new 70w diode. What do you do now because I would think that you would have a real mess on your hands?
The design should not have any kerf from a previous designer. You set the kerf in you layers settings. Should you open a Lightburn file and go to the laser settings and see it already has a kerf value in it. Ignore it. Delete it. Set your kerf settings. The kerf settings have nothing to do with the actual design. It simply tells the laser module where to travel in relation to the design.
Kerf is important when cutting finger joints or tabs and slots. In cutting the individual letters out of the cross kerf does not matter. Where it would matter would be in the tabs along the bottom having to fit into the slots in the base. If you want a tight friction fit, then you have to worry about kerf. As a woodworker I want a little space between the pieces for a place for the glue. Each brand and type of laser has a different kerf. So, you need to test the kerf for each type of material and for each power setting. CO2 lasers have a round kerf where diode lasers are rectangular. Which means that the kerf for a vertical cut is different than the kerf for a horizontal cut on a diode laser.
I have talked about kerf in a lot of my videos. But I had not shown exactly where to enter the value in Lightburn. I was receiving that question a lot in the last couple of weeks. So, I made this short video to cover the basics on kerf and Lightburn.
I watched your video on kerf settings,still confused as what i use this kerf setting on>If used on tabs and slots doesn"t it just defeat purpose as both are lasered a outside of line.
First you have to understand kerf. Kerf is the width of the cut made by the laser. Different brands and power modules will have different kerfs. A switchable module with two or more different power settings will have a different kerf on the same module. To complicate things even more, a diode laser will have different kerfs on the X and Y axis. The diode spot size is not round resulting in the two different kerfs. If you are trying to cut a slot and tab measuring 3mm and do not add any kerf adjustment, the slot and tab will not measure 3mm. Your laser is cutting a line at 3mm. But if your laser has a .24mm kerf, the tab will be .12mm less than original 3mm. Half your kerf width. Because you are cutting a line at 3mm and if your total kerf is .24mm you would subtract 1/2 off the kerf on either side of the line. So, when compensating for the kerf, you add half of your total kerf outward in order to achieve the desired outcome.
I really enjoyed watching your video. I thought that the problems with today's, not only young people, who apply for a job and want to get involved in the work process, either with a private company or with the state sector, are only here in Europe. But unfortunately, this trend is so global that it's even funny..... that is, if these.... didn't replace us in all positions over time. I wish you a lot of strength in your next activity and not only with the laser. And above all, health and good luck. :o)
@@HoboWithWood Thank you for the comment. I have a question for you, is it possible to do in LB somehow, instead of tracing the line of the image with two lines, trace the drawing with only one line? so that only one vector remains from the image?
@@lada-v.vacatko9028 the only way to avoid multiple lines when tracing is to try and only work with "filled" or silhouette SVG or images. When tracing line drawings it will create two lines.
@@HoboWithWood But that's it, having only a silhouette is what I don't want. I would like it if LB could somehow approximate the center of the line. I haven't found this feature yet. Well, what can be done, until they "learn" it, I will have to do everything manually...:o) But thank you for the answer. ....And dear.... good luck. Lada
@@lada-v.vacatko9028 you should be able to get a single line in it is a silhouette. Email the image you are having a problem with to hobowithwood@gmail.com. I will take a look at it and then we can connect online and I can show you how to overcome this problem.
Plenty of useful information . I like how you explain in great detail. How do you add the horizontal and vertical guidelines from the sides?. I see you just click and and drag and they magically appear. I'm clicking/dragging and on the edges wont move. I want to be able to drop down a horizontal line to line up my points.
Need to be using Lightburn 1.5 or higher. Move your mouse to the left or top of the work area until the pointer becomes a horizontal line with a squiggly center. Then left click and drag the tool path onto the work area. docs.lightburnsoftware.com/Version1_5.html#draggable-guidelines-added
@@HoboWithWood The problem is user error. I have version 1.6.0.3. I was trying to start the line from the edge of the grid working area instead of the edges of the toolbars. Once I tried that, it worked. Now I know.
