Its almost like the VK56 is becoming Nissan's LS🤔... And damnright too, b/c it's the best of both worlds: Still pure Nissan tuner, but now it's also technically a musclecar(V8/RWD)🤘🤠🇨🇦🇺🇲
I am going to be doing this too, and had planned on doing it way back when the Titan first came out because I wanted to make a modern updated 240SX and since the 240 came out here with a truck engine in it, it would only be fitting to do a Nissan Titan engine in a modern 240, lol. Thanks for doing the video's, they will help everyone see what and where of this and that of everything you could need to know. Great job, even on the tiny mistakes, which really help everyone even more.
Ahh thanks man, I appreciate that. I like doing different swaps. Its is fitting to throw a Nissan truck engine into a s13. One of the few 240's with a Nissan engine in it at events, let alone a Nissan v8 haha
I did a, I think it was, a 1997 Maxima brake master cylinder in mine. It's casing is just like the one that came in it but all of it's connecting lines are on the other side with a 4th coming out of the top of the end of it. I did all new hard lines and liked having a 4th line instead of only 3 that the 240 originally came with. You will also have plenty of room to do a custom heat shield to protect it too. I LOVE the work so far and I hope I helped.
Very cool swap - just put an HR in my S13 but I'm thinking of doing a VK50 or VK56 down the line. I know you're probably not having a great time after eating two engines but I would suggest possibly looking into getting a shroud on that pickup tube, kind of like the VQ. (Maybe you could fabricate one based off the VQ part). In my humble opinion, that open strainer is probably designed for a pickup that will never have oil sloshing around the pan, and as soon as the oil moves to the passenger side of the pan when it's seeing some lateral Gs, it starts sucking in air. I've never seen a basket-type strainer open to air like that - I would bet money that that is your issue. (*edit* I see you moved the strainer to a "level" position from the original ~45* angle which will definitely help but I'd still recommend a shrouded strainer)
I appreciate your insight! Honestly when it works, its awesome. Great power, good torque, in a straight line its jams man. If this oil pan issue is resolved im confident it will be a wicked platform. Unfortunate way of working out the kinks, im stubborn and like odd ball swaps and builds. I used to have a DE swapped in this s13 and it worked awesome! Everyone laughed when I put it in, but it seems to be growing in popularity.
Dry sump, expensive but necessary with high G maneuvering. Even a moist sump using a two stage scavenge pump with remote high capacity reservoir feeding the stock location pump is better.
Yeah Ive definitely been hearing the same info. I plan to run a accusump as well with a safety on my haltech for low oil pressure. If money grew on trees the dry sump would be here already!
Nice glad to see you haven’t given up on the VK. Do you do custom work for other people? Is Titan Fab your company? I’d love to speak to you about possibly helping me do this swap to my G35 coupe because most shops haven’t done this swap before and it seems like you’ve ironed out the kinks.
Yeah, Titan Fabrication is my small business. I could definitely give you some insight as too what is required. There is a few bolt on parts that would help get the drivetrain sorted, Colins makes an adapter plate and Spec Clutch makes a flywheel/clutch. Other then that its going to be custom parts. Feel free to reach out anytime, my ig is @Titan_Fabrication and email is Titanfabinc@gmail.com
@@titanfabinc well if Chris forsberg can win fd like 3 years in a row with one then it’s probably pretty slick. I thought for the same money I could v12 swap and the v12 got me hooked lol
You're giving me motivation to swap my m35 from a vq35de to a vk56🤌🏾 Originally I wanted to go with a turbo HR swap until I saw a drift m45 with the vk56 swap and fell in love! Plus an 2008/9 vk is only like $1,600. What trans did you use?
Yeah there is pros and cons for sure. Motors arent crazy expensive, but also not a ton of aftermarket support. The swap is a moderately difficult to do, but im use a 350z Cd01 transmission
Big dog big dog, what did you use for the ECU? I want to attempt this swap in a much much older vehicle and am fishing for ideas on how to handle the harness/ECU part of the Titan Swap
They are actually underneath the trailer, I used angle iron. I did briefly touch on this in the video, being the trailer is so narrow I am able to run the straps around the deck to tie downs underneath the trailer when securing a car. Otherwise there is smaller bolted anchor points for small loads
how much of a headache is it to get a vin on one of these camper/flat deck builds or did you not do that and just use it incognito? I've heard it's around $500 for the inspection/vin but I'd assume they'd instantly know it was a trailer frame and not as strong as a proper car hauler frame and it wouldn't be rated for a full 5000lbs (assuming 3500 axles)? Just wondering cause I've seen a bunch of these $600 camper frames on marketplace, is it worth building into a car hauler if it may never pass the vin inspection?
Well this already had a vin, and was easy enough to get a plate for. They never asked questions for me, yeah 2×3500lbs axles. Id be happy to put 5000lbs on this without a worry. Ive done multiple trips of steel, long hauls with race car + gear, s197 mustang. Never an issue
@@titanfabinc I actually somewhat answered my own question today lol I found a forum for 2007 which said there isn't a VIN inspection, it's just literally you pay for a guy to come out and give it a vin. Which is terrifying to think of the sketchy trailers that are on the road. On your registration does it say "travel trailer" with the old VIN that's in the system or does it say homemade? Or could someone tell the registry anything like "car hauler" and in the eyes of the law that is now what it is? lol
@hurtinalbertan3844 All I said to them was that it is a now painted black and that it is used as a utility trailer. I do agree there is some sketchy home built trailers out there, this did save me some messing about being that it all ready had a vin stamped in it and had been registered before. I did strengthen the frame, as well as widen it. But the way it was built as far as axles, brakes etc is still the same. I am a journeyman welder in Alberta, im more then confident that the modifications done are adequate if not better then what is was prior to me. The cross braces literally had 2 welds per tube and were very easily wacked off with a hammer and some grinding. Ive had a few people comment with how stupid this is, but again 2×3500lb axles. It was rated to carry a load, whether the load was "self-supported" or not the frame underneath is the real steel part of a camper. With some additional cross braces, and the additional width (2x2x3/16" HSS) around the entire upper perimeter I would believe this is a perfect candidate for a budget flat deck. Its still going strong, my paint didnt hold up so well. But the trailer it self is solid with new tires and axle bearings
@@titanfabinc All good, yours definitely looks well done and you know what you're doing. Definitely some of the camper frames are pretty cheaply welded together and need to be strengthened. I'm pretty sure a lot of the actual frames are only 1/8 wall tubing which might not be so good for a full 5000lbs over the length, 3000-4000ish sure. You added the 2" square tubing so that probably helps with stiffness. Most people probably strip the camper, slap some ply wood on it then go towing their 1 ton on the "legal trailer" lol
Jesus that motor looks huge in there. gunna need a cowl hood for sure. i seen a 350z with vk56 motor on youtube somewhere and that thing sounded awesome with its exhaust setup
I think its a combination of super short gear ratio 6 speed + 4.09 rear gear. Linked to a billet flywheel she revs super quick and rows the gears. Its on a standalone Haltech ecu. 1.90" primary longtube equalish length headers, with 3.5" collectors, 3" mid pipes, 3.5" single exit with resonator. Also has 288/278 11.2/10.8 cams, redline raised to 7200rpms, and a slight port/polish of the heads.
I guess I should make a follow up video haha. I believe it was the valve lash, it definitely still has a tick unfortunately. However once it warms up the the tick gets quieter, regardless the valve lash was wayyy to tight and perhaps they could using a bit more clearance. I feel that these are overall noisey engines, seeing multiple videos of Titans and Armadas on RU-vid asking what is this noise. But it does run again, took her for a boot up the road and she rips like it used too! Awesome torque, spins through 3rd short shifting its a blast 🤘
@@titanfabinc It's definitely a noisy engine. I believe all modern Nissan engines are noisy because even on altimas you can hear the valves or lifters
I give you so much props for all that work you put in. Helps all of us learn the issues for the ppl that want a similar swap. Thanks brother cant wait for you to post next video. Cheers
The VQ is a nice light engine. How much heavier is the VK in comparison. In trying to decide between these two engines but lean more towards the VQ just because of weight alone. I'm also curious as to why you just didn't just turbo the VQ if you wanted more Hp.
I had a turbo vq in the past and it didnt work out for me, its always ran hot, had way more piping in the way of basic maintenance/repairs on track, blowing intercooler boots mid drift etc. Im sure I could have refined it more and had good results but after the 2nd engine blew up I went back to NA vq. And honestly liked it so much more with the cams and more rpms. I went VK because of the massive increase in torque compared to the VQ, i figured I could hit around 400 ft/lbs of torque without forced induction and low in the power band at 3000rpm. Where the vq really lacked the torque NA. Also im stubborn and just wanted to go something not many people have done haha
@titanfabinc I agree with you 100 per cent. I'm big fan of your swap but bro you had to put the VD in there and not the DE. Would of gave you over 400 hp and torque.
First time viewer. I,ve built several engines for stock cars, and street cars. When there are issues, I always go back to the last place work was done. In your case the cams you replaced. Secondly, Contact the cam manufactor for valve lash info. They are the experts on their product. I liked your video, I like to see the work being done, I do understand how hard that is to film.. Good Job..
The Vk still needs some kinks worked out, unfortunately my job has taken up alot of my free time havent had a chance to sort it out. But from what I did get to experience, driving that car is a riot. She is wicked fast, the torque is so instant!
@@titanfabinc why didn’t you go with the 300 degree cams instead of 288? Also are you going to get higher compression pistons eventually? Just wondering how much you could make NA. I’ve seen a few claims stating you can make 500hp if not more NA. Specially from Hartley engines in NZ.
@AntoineJra 100% NA these motors can make some good power. I didnt go any bigger due to machining the heads, these are the biggest I could go without interference in the heads. The size of these cams really arent jiving with the truck intake as well, being that the cams want to flow a ton of air up top in the rpms, and the intake has so much volume I need more of a short ram manifold and I should see a good jump in power on the dyno. The power came in super good down low and then the graph just falls off after 5500rpm
@@titanfabinc oh ok I see. Do you think it would be possible to convert the dual intake plenum from the VD to the DE? Would that fix that issue? Or would it be better just just get something custom made and keep the single throttle body setup
@AntoineJra I think that would be a awesome solution, have the best of both worlds! I might end up just making a plenum, with the nature of this swap it just seems fitting
Nice build.. i would like to ask if Kelford cams will work fine with the vvt? the intake variable cam (CVTCS).. i guess those cams are made for older models with fixed camshaft timings
They work fine with the vvt on my setup, I told them when I ordered that I was going to use the vvt. The ones I ordered are supposed to more or less "drop in" cams, but you can get lock out plates for the phasers and set the adavance yourself
