Fantastic video, appreciate all of the detail as I want one of these but wasn't sure where I was going to start with customizing it. But now I have a tutorial! Thank you Sir! Truck looks fantastic!!
DO NOT FORGET ABOUT THEM.! I recently made the mistake of putting 4 wheels & tyres in overnight & forgot about them, when I finally remembered 4 days later, all that was left were 4 tyres sitting in a pool of white plastic sludge.! 😉 😉 😂 😂 It was super weird stuff too, it was a pliable sticky thick liquid paste that solidified back into hard plastic as the acetone evaporated.. It's got me wondering if it would be any good for repairing broken parts.!?
Verry good and usefull vid. Thanks for this good work you, ve done. Have a 6.2 and i would soon buy the new 7 carpet version, but here in Switzerland is out of stock for more than 4 weeks.
lol your wheels are still covered with old glue you need to get off. just dump enough acetone in the container so the bead facing down is fully submerged and wait 12 hours. flip over and wait another 12 hours. you might have to clean up the wheels a little but but take a paper towel soaked in acetone and wipe away.
Great review! Did you have to use a different size screw to attach the damper to the caster? I tried using the one that came with it and it didn’t seem to fit. Thank you!
Has the XB2 gone? How would you compare the two? Did you put the Xray on the scales? I was drawn to the Xray as 'not another Associated', but this does look like a great kit.
Yes the XB2 is gone. It's essentially a B6.4. It is light on the scales, partly that is because they don't include any electronics plates in the box, but lighter than the B7. Parts work out expensive on the XRAY and quality is not as good as the Associated (XRAY quality seems to be slipping). It really is hard to compare. The B7 is a totally new platform.
Seeing a lot of people posting about broken c mounts (pin pulling through the pill and the aluminium of the c mount where the slot/cutout is) after the types of collisions the say the B6.4 would usually survive; typically followed by replies from people denying its an issue, blaming the poster etc... But longer wishbones means longer levers; so its logical that in a collision, the longer levers will cause more force to be applied to the c mount. If the c mount hasn't been beefed up to account for the increased leverage then I think we'll likely see this proving to be an issue.
I'll see how it goes. Gut feeling is that the extra arm length is not enough to make popping an arm out "easy", so more likely a combination of the parts on the B7. Note that the D block is not attached to the chassis so probably has more movement in it than before. Going back a few years, popping hingepins and arm mounts was an issue on the Tamiya Durga. Solution back then was some fine shims to take the excess play out of the hingepins, there is scope for more shimming on a B7 too.
Yeh, may all prove to be nothing :) but pretty big redesign so could also need a revision or two to sort out any issues that crop up. The other thing I'm interested on keeping an eye on is whether with the narrower kick-up part of the chassis + the longer arms we see more incidents of that part of the chassis getting bent/twisted.
Superb 👌 thanks for taking the time to do a detailed breakdown of the changes from previous generations of the AE 2WD. Your videos are some of the best around 👍
Glad you’ve got one these, looking forward to your coverage of the car. I didn’t know Associated are owned by a Taiwanese corp. Always thought of the as an American company. Old history I guess. Laughably I don’t like blue anodising 😂 it really puts me off. I know that’s ridiculous
Just bought this but do you know what the different colour screens are meant to mean. At the end of the charge, it goes from red to green and then to blue. Is it automatically balancing at the green stage and totally finished at the blue screen.
Interesting car. Just found that they have released this new 2wd! I usually purchase AE but have always heard Xray has an excellent reputation for quality vehicles. Seems like you may have sold the vehicle, but you were talking about the droop on the car. You also have a Three Degree arm setup. It looks like it has pills, so if you wanted more droop without purchasing the arms, you could switch pills to bring the arms in. That would narrow the back of the car a small amount. I don't know if the frame would interfere with the arms at that point but you would not have to purchase the longer rear drive CVs.
Fair point, and I believe I mentioned changing the hub inserts in the video. But then you are also reducing track width. You should be able to make changes in isolation, I want the car to have enough droop and also be maximum width, XRAY don't supply the parts for that in the box, and in fact they become very expensive options.
help me please! I bought the hobbywing quickrun 120a version 1 esc I did the correct calibration, but the forward and backward acceleration commands are inverted! When I accelerate it goes backwards, and when I reverse it goes forwards! I already reversed the control but it didn't solve it! Even the reverse force is much stronger than the forward acceleration force! what could I do?
@@fiveeight0sixsixI redid the calibration again and in different ways and it didn't work! I calibrated in all different possibilities and it didn't work! I've already reversed channel two but it doesn't work either!
I appreciate you showing what is in the box, but MORE IMPORTANTLY telling us the difference from '23 and '24. I am getting back into the hobby competitively after 16 years being away. Last time I raced was in 2008 and I was racing all TLR (XXX-T MF2, XXX-NT AD2, and XXX-CR). XRAY was on the scene when I was racing but only for on road that I can remember. Seeing XRAY now in off-raod, makes me curios about this brand. However, looking at pricing for a-arms, ball diffs, etc.. XRAY is mostly double the price for the same parts on an AE or TLR buggy.
Does the method damage the rubber of the tyres? Just wondering if this could be used to rescue a badly glued but new set of wheels/tyres (i.e. so they can be removed and re-glued).
had reglued tyres on new rims becaus the old cracked that got a bath in acetone and dont see a problem with the tyres in this case its loise tyres for a traxxas slash so depending on the rubber compaund some tyres can handle it.
Good review on this buggy and your points are of similar to mine. I got this buggy on the release day, I stumbled onto the shock cap issue straight away (noted to the xray team) when assembling.after 2 meetings they were leaking badly aswell. I found that overall it wasn't as nice a build as the previous 23 car and general overall quality lacked the usual standard you recieve. Definitely penny pinching on the chassis weights, car is way underweight out of the box. Medium plastics too is no good for a carpet car. I ran this for 3 meetings and can honestly say it was a huge let down after all the hype. It isn't on par with the 23 car imo and needs alot of work £££ to get it to the same level.understeers badly and chews front tyres off, I tried a ton of set up and some option parts (1 deg rear toe d block) various other parts and decided that was enough for me and swiftly parted ways. Be good to hear your thoughts after more running 👍🏻
I've given this a proper run today and have to say that my instinct about the front being too stiff and the droop being too limited was right. I run on medium grip carpet (closer to outdoor levels of grip), and by putting the front shocks on the inside hole on the arm, and winding the rear shocks out 2mm I got the steering I needed and a big improvement on the jumps and landings. Overall I'm pretty happy with where the car is after a couple of tweaks, understeer not an issue for me but I am only an average driver. However I will also be selling it, not because of any problem with the car, but because something else has caught my eye...
@@fiveeight0sixsix b7 by chance 🤣... I ran my old faithful xb2 23 today just suits me better. We are all different and different things suit different people. 👍🏻
Hi great review! Thanks helps a lot! I've managed to calibrate but I don't get the solid green when in full throttle or in full reverse. Is there something that I'm doing wrong?
Good question. Boring answer is that I think all the cars are so similar, and so adjustable, you can get them handling the way you want with only a few small changes. Straight out of the box I think the Yokomo is a better build, but the XRAY has a slightly better setup. I don't have a 6.4, I do have a 6.3 that has never been on carpet, but I'm pretty sure that the carpet setting on that would also be pretty close.
I feel like I should qualify my boring answer. The Yokomo setup is not so good out of the box BUT I think you will spend less money getting a good setup on the Yokomo. The XRAY is missing a few parts in the box that will cost quite a bit to bring it to the "equivalent" racing spec of the Yokomo.
Great to see ‘what’s in the box’ and so close to release. Just been to a team day with Xray at MB raceway and all the fast boys were tuning their kits. I was at the back but did fit an anti roll bar on my 21 which made a good difference, more planted.
Fantastic to have a more content from your RC racing. Even better it’s an Xray which my son and I run, sadly not a 24 yet 😅 Can I ask what pinion you run?
I used to run exclusively Xray for many years but i feel the quality and general ingenuity has been lacking for many years now. Plastic shock caps, plastic hubs, plastic servo horns . Steel turnbuckles, None of it says premium to me and the cars look very bland in black plastic . Even my 10 year old Tamiya db01 RRR has alloy shock caps . I run primarily 8th and it has taken until the 23 model to get quick release diffs . I think I would rather try one of the newer kids on the block like tekno or s workz or sparky if I was shopping for a new rc car . Having said that I do still have a partially assembled 19 spec X-ray xb8e I will finally finish and race this year . Videos coming this summer. Having said all that I hope you enjoy your racing! .
Thanks for sharing this video and information. I think mine haves the silver sway bar and doesnt look to help much.. I think the black sway bar might be stiffer and the best to use. New subscriber 👍
Hi, so I wanted to be different and not get associated, was going to get the schumacher LD3 but got deterred, was sold on AE then this came out and I love it but.... where do I get the spares from for the xb2 2024? I've looked and can't find anywhere.... Great vid aswell btw
Depends where you are. In the UK I normally use MB Models but there are a couple of other places that list parts, also a few stockists in Europe but it's been more difficult to get parts shipped at a sensible price since Brexit.
