Welcome to Jen Woodhouse's RU-vid Channel! This channel will be your go-to channel for do-it-yourself (DIY) projects, home improvements and renovations, and furniture builds. I will walk you through each project, step-by-step, with lots of helpful tips and tricks along the way. My mission is to inspire you to build your way to a more beautiful home, and empower you with the knowledge and motivation to DIY! Most of my furniture projects come with PDF plans that you can download and print, so be sure to check the links in the description of each video.
For real-time behind-the-scenes content, follow me on Instagram (@jenwoodhouse) and visit JenWoodhouse.com for more DIY project ideas, plans, and home inspiration.
What did you use to wrap and secure the string lights through the chimney cap? I'd like to do something similar but I'm concerned about the heat melting the light wire at the top of the chimney. Great work!
Question for those who know: Why use red brick and not just user cinder blocks for the whole thing? Seems like it’d be cheaper and faster. Is it because they are smaller and thus are better at making the curves/angles required?
Good idea about "lowering the opening" to the firebox at the last minute. It probably wouldn't have been a problem for such a massive chimney that draws well, but if there is going to be a smoke problem with a fireplace, many stem from the top (entrance) being too high. Lowering 4 or 5 inches increases draft, and of course, makes it that much harder for any smoke to get out.
no easy way for me. you're removing an almost pristine floor, likely not very old. i have a 100 year old floor in a 1940's building. the flooring is only in one out of 3 rooms. its oak flooring and most of it is individually warped, damaged in a few areas, and rotted in a corner. the rot goes into the subfloor, which i have removed. the beams look good with no damage. i patched the subfloor but need to remove the oak. unfortunately, the nails are from the 1940s and are all rusted, which means the pry bar and hammer are a bad idea. being on the knees and breaking my back for days on end is not gonna happen. i'll likely get a Crescent bull bar. once i remove the oak flooring, i think i'll just add a 2nd layer of chipboard subflooring to secure it from the squeaking. it squeaks a lot. then i'll add a brand new layer of hardwood, likely oak.
It’s all good and all, but where is that paper you put down before you install the wood forgot what it’s called but it has something to do with water proofing and soundproofing
I loved this video, just straight to the point and great to learn from. I was planning on carpet but I’m getting someone’s leftover engineered hardwood floor, was a bit intimidated by the project but now feel confident to try it. Thankyou 😊
