This channel is about the refit or restoration of a 1966 steel boat that was neglected for over 15 years. We have little to no experience in restoring steel boats, so we'll showcase the methodes used as we go and alter/share info with our viewers and learn from our mistakes and the comments in this page. With the shared knowledge of this community we hope to finish this project successfully.
Hello there, Flying Coney is a YT channel met “ervaring” !? In restoratie projekten van oude boten. Ze zoeken contact met eigenaren van restoratie projecten. Misschien contact opnemen ? Cheers, de welweter.
The engines are part of the historical ship. If they are not good then you should buy used ones of same kind. These bigger diesel engines can go forever.
I think you should rethink the idea of changing the engines. Study them first! They might be better than new ones. They are basically not more complicated than any other diesel engines.
Leave the well adhered paint where it is. Forget the airless sprayer...it will cost more time than painting and you spill a lot of paint. Insulation: use armaflex on every horizontal surface and fill all other spaces with natural wool... sheep wool. Nice to work with, and you don't have to use a moisture barrier, moisture regulating, anti-rust and sound dampening. Also: it smells nice when you enter your boat...even after years and years
Stunning lines. A beautiful craft worthy of preservation. A question: Did you consider pulling the boat and working on it on the hard, perhaps in workshop?
Hi. Boatbuilder here. I would point on top of the old paint, as long as the products plays together nice. As for filler for the decks i would use epoxyfiller of some sorts.
Here in the UK there are a lot of houses having their drives epoxied, a number of people I know have had the process done with a pattern rolled into it. It takes the load of cars driving on it, perhaps its an option for you on the side decks? Re the old paint, its going to have all those banned chemicals we arent alowed to use anymore and could out live the boat. I know many will say you should blast it all and as you do have a blaster... it is good logic. Only you can really see in person how well that paint is adheared, if the paint is good, the steel should also. The down side is intercoat adhesion and the chance of reaction from the old paint. You will only have real peice of mind by painting bare steel, with a primer and top coat that are designed to cross link. Just my thoughts, I hope it all works out regardless.
Great project! An enormous undertaking with huge potential rewards on so many levels. Seeing your whole family involved takes this to an even higher higher level - stay the course you're headed in the right direction. - you've taken the time and made the effort to renew the decks and plan to sand blast the hull to bare metal, relative to the boats total surface area the cabin isn't that much more (I know easy for me to say here behind my computer) depending on the level of finish you see in your minds eye and the level of renewal you have already demonstrated, stripping the deck house back appears to be the logical choice. - Didn't you mention in an earlier video that you had contacted someone who was involved with the original building of the boat? What an invaluable potential resource if he will allow you to pick his brain a little. He should be able to guide you from experience and first hand knowledge of this boat's design characteristics, structural issues (should the hand rails be strengthened etc). - Is the Naval Architect who designed the boat (if not his firm?) contactable? Alternatively, another naval architect should be able to give you valuable insight into the use of sails on this particular hull shape. - Repowering - I see an earlier comment from someone apparently far more knowledgeable of the virtues of an existing diesel propulsion system and would add another part of the equation: what is the ecological impact of producing all those batteries, motor and related newly manufactured equipment for this change over versus renewing the existing system with a view to maximum efficiency. What is the design hull speed of this boat? If the existing system is well matched you might be hard pressed to improve it? By the effort you have already put into this 'project' it seems to me you are one of us who deeply believe a boat (large, small or in between) can be far more than just a floating vehicle to ride around in. They have personality, character, exceptional engineering & design in the best examples. Some are floating, working works of art. Continued success and perseverance - the outcome on many levels will be well worth it!
Thank you very much for your insights. I'll try to answer where I can. but first off, thanks for the kind words, I do believe in effort /reward balance and having fun while getting there. I might end up stripping the boat completely; the comments are mixed on this issue, so it might go either way. unfortunately the former wharf owner is over 80 and doesn't seem to remember vividly what went on in his business days. his answers are short and contribute little. don't want to stress him too much with my questions. It's strange how everybody keeps pointing out that electric is not that ecological after all, but what about the pleasure of sailing almost in silent. I remember my motoring days as loud and happy when we could turn the motor off. this is a thing of the past when you convert to electric. all the best, hear you soon.
I was one of the folk who suggested you look into deck prisms. You wrote to me, but I couldn't find how to contact you. Sorry. It seems you've done some research, but I strongly suggest you follow your own advice and find a boat that has them installed. My yacht had a number of 300mm square clear hatches and they gave off enough light. They also allow air flow which is so important. Thus, my preference. Condensation is a serious issue, especially in the tropics where I live. Circulation is essential and hatches will allow this to happen. I agree with others that a stainless steel band under the rails is the way to go. Although routing the band into the rail is ideal, it's not essential. Please try to keep the teak. It looks pretty healthy overall. Seriously consider sealing or painting all uncoated panels, especially on the edges. Also treat ventilation or circulation as a high priority, as with bilge drainage. All water must find its way to the bilge pump and damp will develop in any sealed area. Great project and you have a great team.
boatprojecty@gmail.com for any contact outside YT. I surely will keep the teak. love it too much to part from.... I got the importance of ventilation. haven't thought it trough, but with hatches and vents in the front and in the back of the boat, plus the means of an airflow ventilation device would be sufficient right? but need to put some more thought in that...
The spray cork insulation is great like you said it stops the boat sounding like drum and it does offer a thermal layer and it helps with condensation too, if you find you need more adding a tradional layer of insulation is an option but the cork just as those added sound damping and condensation benefits.
@@BoatProjectY Off the top of my head I pretty sure it was 10 bar it was an upright compressor we hired 330/03 we just adjusted the pressure until we got a nice even spray I can remember having it on full whack at first and getting splattered and having to turn it down lol
Why are you not able to get to the boat at the moment? Are you away on work? A great channel for both enjoyment and some boat tips and ideas on a classic boat is Travels with Geordie. His boat and the others he helps maintain are all wood but they too have classic lines and he covers all manner of projects and his boat probably would cruise in similar conditions to what yours is designed for. Give his channel a watch 👍🏻
I would absolutely strip every single atom of old paint off the boat. A top down re-paint will make the boat appear brand new. Painting over old paint will create waves. It would look terrible. Plus you get to thoroughly inspect the hull and make the necessary repairs. You will be shocked as what that old paint is hiding. Other then that, what a great project.
thanks for your reply. although I'm a true believer in electric propulsion. it's especially the noise that bothers me. if you motor for a couple of hours, on a diesel engine, you feel relieved when switching it off. what about being relieved all through the travel?
Hi my Belgian friend, You’re really doing fine in restoring this classical yacht and finally she will look like a pearl. Wish you lots of success with the rest of the refit and look forward to your next vlog plus I send you love from The Netherlands
Yep flat bar under the wooden rail . Yep leave the tough paint , it’s a cycle of maintenance from here on . Baring the steel can cause more problems than it solves .Airless spray is excellent , but weigh up the masking effort versus roll & tip . Insulation is complex , the paint behind becomes unserviceable . Just paint the side decks , anything else causes issues .you will never save money by setting up a sailing rig .. deck prisms are beautiful . Fare well. Cheers from Tasmania
hi Tasmania ! thanks for the tips. the airless is for the rough work now, so no masking required. the sails are mainly for my own pleasure. so I want to stick with that. and the side desk need to be risen to match the thru-hulls ...
You have a very pretty boat, well worth the effort. SEKA products are expensive, but they are the best. Do a job right, do it once! DEcks - while teak decks look great they cause all sorts of fixing and water problems. Prepare as you have, prime and top coat with the very best quality paint. For high traffic areas, it is possible to buy a very very thick waterbased acyllic paint that is applied with a brush, then rolled with a specially designed, very rough roller, which leaves a safe non-skid surface to walk on. And when it is time to redo it, this acryllic paint is easily sanded down before reapplication. Get the boat useable as quickly as possible, and use and enjoy it. After using it for a time (say 2 years) you may find that you want to change layouts around. Dont try and make her perfect first time around. Enjoy.
thank you for your insights. I'm not ready to part from the teak just yet. it's too beautiful. and I'll do my utmost to keep it in top shape. Sika is a great manufacturer but I fear that they neglect their 'amateur' consumer. I get very basic info and no help at all. wish they would help me out no matter how small the order I want to place.
As I've said on previous videos just some 5mm bar under the existing wood. I wouldn't think it likely to cause an issue with rot. But if concerned there are plenty of waterproof bedding compounds available. As for paint taking everything back to bare steel is obviously the ultimate solution for a variety of reasons and would advise that for any wherethat is going to be totally inaccessible but anywhere else if the paint is in good condition with good adhesion just keeping it should be fine
I can understand why you purchased it's a beautiful looking shape and steel hull and your editing was awesome definitely subscribed watching from Australia
Cut a recess into the bottom of the railing to accept a stainless steel bar, perhaps a 75mm x 5mm flat section, weld the bar to the stanchions and fix the rails onto it with plenty of sealant, the bar wont be seen, definitely keep the teak rails and repair where necessary, as for the paint, I think that taking it back to bare metal is the ultimate but removing the unsound paint, sanding and repainting would also be ok
I would weld a metal piece under the railing that would carry everything and put the wooden railing on top of that with water resistant or protecting layer on the underside. Or you cut a little groove in the railing so that the metal strip would be less visible. For the Sailing part, maybe ask a local manufacturer of sailing boats if they could help you with information or even getting material. Personally i would get rid of the forward mast and just use the back one (as short as possible) for radar. For me it looks more like a motoryacht than a sailing boat. On the other hand, it's better to have an plan B if the engine died, so that you are not helpless on the sea. For the flooring, how is it done on other ships?`Same as on yours or in a totally other way? Sorry for my english, not using it very often and when i use it, it is more for gaming😅
I think I'll do a strength test on the railing, to determine the need for fortification. I hadn't really considered the rescue-option. yet but that's a great extra argument for the rigging!! need to visit a shipyard soon to determine the right use of the level compound.
over je gangboorden, en de rest van het dek, wel eens gekeken naar epoxy gietvloeren, en informeer eens bij de firma HBM voor spuitmachine, en firma Epifanes, of Empol voor de juiste verf voor je project
My 7 cents 🙂 1) how about fiberglassing the railing, it will be see-through and much stronger. 2) Keep the paint and sandblast the hull 3) No clue 4) Yes I want spray cork on my boat as well, I hope to find someone who will do it for me in Denmark 🙂 5) Haven't the foggiest 6) Funny I want to go to electric propulsion and cancel my 9m aluminum mast for a 6m one, so it will be easy to lay down in case I have to go under low bridges (canal sailing through Europe one day) 7) I love the hatch layout you showed Keep up the good work
Thanks , always great to hear from fellow boat owners who face similar hurdles . now I understand why my masts are hollow. that is to keep the weight down on lowering and rising . I too want to travel thru europe most beautiful canals one day.
You may want to look at John bernards way to paint metal boats he is one of the best narrowboat painters with over 30 years of experience. He has a full course on RU-vid. From start to finish. Ask him on his RU-vid Chanel. Prismas have a look at sailing magic carpet. They installed two.
aarghh!! must have been too tired. sorry for the confusion. hope this one makes up for the wait. btw love Costa Rica. we where there about 3 months ago. amazing country.
Awesome job! Beautiful lines on this boat. I restore wood runabouts and cruisers here in BC Canada. The rails look to be teak. Definitely worth saving. A possibility would be to run a mortise underneath along the length of them to accept some square tubing or flat bar (stainless?)welded to the stanchions. I would hesitate to commit to the spray insulation until it’s on the hard for an inspection. If any welding is required on the hullsides near the foam that could be a problem. I commend you and your family on this rewarding endeavour. Thnx for taking the time to document this. I tried to do this for my pitiful channel. It just proved too consuming.
Thanks nick for your reply. what thickness stainless steal would you suggest? can I weld stainless to the mild steel using my mig welder? For sure the insulation would be added after the hull has been sandblasted and if needed repaired, for sure... All the best to you.
@@BoatProjectYI’m pretty sure you can weld stainless to mild steel with the right settings on your welder. I do weld a little but, I’m in no position to give much advice on that. I do a lot of “no soak” bottoms on the boats I work on. This consists of two layers of marine ply affixed with 3M 5200. 5200 has very good adhesive qualities while still remaining flexible. All the best. I always look forward to your vids. 🍻
Thank you Dieter, I thought of that, but the crossbeams are every 36cm, so I can not go wider than that, still looking for a affordable hatch with a max with of 34 and as long as possible.
You might want to make the hatch in the forward berthing area big enough to not only provide ventilation but act as an emergency egress point. As for rigging, check with a local yacht broker that might have a contact for you. My dad was born in Belgium, imigrated to the US in 1926. The german army leveled his home town in WW 1. Great job with what you have done so far, especially having the whole family involved.
I thought of that, but the crossbeams are every 36cm, so I can not go wider than that, still looking for a affordable hatch with a max with of 34 and as long as possible. thanks for your reply. all the best to you.
