I believe your issue was the holes behind the bolt heads. The bolt heads created a low pressure zone creating suction from those holes and venting in a lot f air. if holes were closed, the flow would most likely re-attach back to the diffusor. And if it was only the holes alone, they would have been only a disturbance. the bolt heads made them effective at letting in the air.
@@rcoltlyf Absolutely valid point... being able to stop barreling down the track is critical. It may be more work than it's worth but I was referring to the 80s style Porsche lemans approach. The discs would have vents plus flex ducts for brake cooling but that's a more involved endeavor. Aero unfortunately is about compromises
I will literally not install a part with perforated sheet made gaskets, as its such a terrible material, it just doesnt last and compresses too easily, I learned the hard way that they suck. Always go MLS.
Here’s to you, unsung hero’s of RU-vid! This is the content we need, short and simple, showing something that might not be the same vehicle that you own but a transferable technique with explanations. Thank you 👌
@@driftmonkey3646 I do. However the RColt is off getting a new engine. I have a couple of things in the library I can drag out and was thinking about looking at the aero on the CZC. Will see how things pan out.
You'd be surprised how using chrome polish and a cloth towel can clean up yellowed polycarbonate. Then you can follow it up with some car polish and then wax to smoothen things out.
@@tturi2 That much I can answer. The colt has a series of holes in the chassis rails already that I used as mounting points. I just had to sort out a way to use these.
I know this has been posted 3 years ago, but have you thought about a transverse recess, perpendicular to the flow? It should reduce some of the boundary layer thickness and it could house the bolts and holes without interrupting the flow
All 4 wheels, but the reality it the fronts do most of the work. To get the back brakes working you need them to be high friction from low temperatures.
Hope to see your build soon..nice videos... I'm planning to get one..but the price is high for now.. probably next year I'll do it for the right price and if budget permits
I enjoyed your video and like how you showed the evolution of the final product. Can you explain how you decided on the final design vs one or 2 of the other designs? One day I would really like to do something like this.
As much as I would like to say cold hard testing, mostly it is a combination of aero articles and papers that I have read (and then get new ideas from) as well as more practical things (like making them too big then snapping them off on speed bumps which has happened more than once). I can say that I have done these again and they are smaller this time.
Dunno but good thought. Part of the issue is the challenge in mounting the camera in a way that does not affect the air flow. Really need a wind tunnel!
There is a drop frame lower than the torsion beam from where the fuel tank bolts in, then it curves up from there (diffuser) and attaches to the bumper. The rear torsion beam moves within this space - it was installed with the torsion beam hanging with the car on a hoist to make sure it would not hit when fully dropped
@rcoltlyf it's been 3 years since I did it on my is200 which is always parked outside and it still looks incredible. Hard to judge on video but my guess is that my trim was in worse shape
what you want to know is whether the flow stays attached along the length of your diffuser not at the back edge. There's a about a 70deg turn there, of course that flow will separate. Put the tufts all over the bottom of the diffuser and figure out how to film that.
I did the same thing recently, combination of hot day, bad fuel and ECU not retarding quick enough. Putting 2nd hand motor in, lowering boost and do better knock contol. Have a 3rd engine that i may build forged.
Can't blame hot day for me, and ECU was definitely retarding but just not enough. Having tried the 'be nice to the engine' road (that was this engine) without success I am now forging. Don't get rid of your third engine. :)
@@rcoltlyfyea i think once you're used to the power they can generate it is hard to take anything less, i know the day mine blew i was wringing it so no mr nice guy and at 4rd pull with a lil uphill it caved in.
Yeah. Nah. Low down torque on the dyno is not the issue (has been on the dyno, I wanted more down low, did not get it) and the engine was very much at high RPM when it went.
I'm not sure which gaskets you speak of. Both the rubber strips are OEM. My guess is they are there to force the air where it needs to go ie in the intake, and in in the radiator below..
Which track day groups do you normally go with? Any experience with Evolve Driving or Driving Events? Thinking about doing a trip down from Brisbane at some point.
Have used both groups and I would rate both. Evolve is a bit more 'boutique' (read more expensive but fewer cars on track). Drive events run a good drive day too.
Building for reliability more than power - will be putting the Arashi turbo back on again. So between e85 and a bit more boost maybe 165-170kw at the front wheels? I guess we will see.
Hi, what do you think about taking out the fog light and making an air curtain tunnel for front wheels instead of it. In case of drag reduction air curtains proved their efficiency.
I think it would be plausible if you can get the air around the corner from a round entry to a slit like exit in a non turbulent fashion. If it could not be done smoothly I reckon you just create more drag. I think there is probably a reason they go from slit like entrances to slit like exits on purpose built curtains.
@@rcoltlyf Well I doubt that round to narrow tunnel would be an issue. Ford uses air curtains on F150 with extreme angles of air channel, and air box in the middle. This thing should be turbulent as hell, but it works. RU-vid bans my comments with links, so i can't share articles(
@@user-id3su6ot1o Not sure ford does that anymore on the latest 150 models. At least, none I could see. Looks like they did like cybertruck, external channel around 1 inch wide on side producing similar effect. Cyber truck increased it to a 2 inch or so groove (or so I can guess from the other vid I saw) from their concept car which had less than a 1 inch groove/channel with purpose of wrapping around the outside of front tires. However that’s not to say it (the integrated internal channel) isn’t effective or done, plenty other do that curtain approach like fisker ocean on front and rear of front wheel. And then there’s rivian which has a strange large gap behind front wheels to prevent air pocket presumably. Seperately I see new lexus SUV’s messing with unique and significant protruding guides as well.
I don't think it would be easy - a) it would need to be at the level of the side of the splitter - higher than that and it would not seal anything and b) it would need to survive the turbulence from the front wheel, which is considerable. Don't believe me though - see here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aCXTVpj1Ci4.htmlsi=Vbx0ij_tUDo0MNBj&t=440
@@rcoltlyf Great video! I guess I'm getting in over my head, but I'm curious if you could modify the back of the front fender to try and contol the air from behind the wheel somewhat, maybe using one of the bottom elements to create an air dam or sorts? I'm new to learning the finer details of aerodynamics and it's very exciting.
