Vintage Air, Inc. is widely recognized as the industry leader in the design and manufacturing of performance automobile air conditioning systems and related cooling components for street rods, classic cars, and limited production new cars and trucks.
Did you press your water pump pulley all the way or adjusted for line up with new AC compressor. Mine is not lining up with crank pulley and wayer pulley.
The only thing I don't like about this kit is it doesn't have a FRESH AIR intake. It only recirculates cabin air. What if my wife farts? I don't want 20* cold air coming in the car when I have to roll my windows down. I want warm fresh air ducted in the cabin to get the stinky air out.
Are all the A/C Compressors the same in your kit with the compressor bracket being the differentiator? I have a Ford Modular Engine from a 2001 Lincoln Navigator swapped into my truck and I don’t mind making a custom compressor bracket as long as the compressor would still work for my truck. You also mentioned a auxiliary switch option on your climate control panel given within the kit, I have a custom back wall on my cab that uses a powered slide down Crewmax Tundra rear window. Would I be able to put my up and down window switch in your control panel in that auxiliary spot?
Will be ordering one for my third gen in the next couple of days definitely excited!! Edit I did order it and I'm roughly 85% done with install so far everything has gone according to the video and instructions. Very nice kit edit #3 finished install the only trouble I had was with the hose routing for vents ac is ice cold heat works but I won't need that for a bit. Coupled it with the Dakota climate control. Had to recalibrate the Dakota controller so it would stop kicking the AC out. Will post a fourth and final edit a year to see how it holds out
@@aponinichole just checked it out if they had an actual bolt in kit for my car I'd be more interested . They have one that was put in a 92 but the size made it where the under dash panel on passenger side would not fit. The kits they do have look like they are well made and pricing is comparable but they do not have a complete kit for a third Gen on the site that I could see
@Vintage Air Inc - Is it possible to use the vintage air unit that mounts to the firewall in place of my original a/c heater box and use my original duct work under the dash? I know I'll need some of the various components and brackets and such but I don't feel like I need to use all the adapter pieces for the vents/duct unless I'm just misunderstanding and you have to. I have a El Camino so it's half a car to cool down.
Hello, I currently have a mechanical engine fan but at some point I may add an electric fan. Question is can I use a trinary switch and use it like a binary until I need/add the electric fan? Just cap off the blue wire till needed?
Hey Billy, can I fly you into San Diego to install mine on my 76 Ford truck non-air-conditioning 390 engine… Cab is completely empty..dash is off …I think you need a vacation in San Diego… Lol
The only good reason to have outside air infiltrate the cabin is simply for fresh air, but when speaking about performance allowing hot outside air to come into the cabin will only make the system struggle to remove the introduced heat. and this will cause the AC system to take longer to acclimate the cabin and raise the cabin temp. a few degrees. Keep in mind that AC systems from an operational standpoint does not cool the air, it rather removes the heat from the cabin and if you allow hot air to constantly enter the cabin the AC system has to work harder to keep up. For the Best AC performance in aftermarket AC systems or OEM systems a recirculation method is used, commonly known as MAX AC setting on OEM systems.
@@va197653 Yes the performance of the AC. But theres a reason that all modern car has a fresh air mode. So then its all about lack of performance the real reason that aftermarket units only have recurculated air? In only heater mode you only have stale air.
Unfortunately, we do not perform installs, we only design and manufacture the AC kits. We can say that the install time would be apx 20-25 hrs so if looking for a labor quote you could call the local shops to see if they can install it or if you visit our website www.vintageair.com and then click on the "distributors" button then your zip code a list of nearby dealers/installers will pop up.
What Dynamat and silicone are you using? Any part numbers or links would be greatly appreciated. Also where does the Dynamat goes? On the inside of the block off plate were the evaporator unit mounts to?
We used Dynamat Xtreme part # 46135-VIP we generally use all weather 100% silicone caulking. Also its best to insulate the entire firewall to keep hot air from infiltrating the cabin. In the instructions it shows the insulation only on the firewall cover (inside) but the vehicle would greatly benefit with as much insulation you can install.
For orders within the U.S you can order directly from our sales team, they can be reached at 210-654-7171 or sales@vintageair.com for orders outside the U.S you would use one of our international dealers.
As far as a turnkey dual unit kit, no. But we can put together a dual unit that will work nicely in a Hearse. We have a few options on a primary and aux. unit that will work. The best way to spec. out a dual system is to reach out to our sales team at 210-654-7171 or sales@vintageair.com they will get the vehicle info. and go over some unit options. There will likely need to be some measurements taken to see which unit would fit best, so to get ahead of the game see how much available room you have behind the dash, with that info. our sales team can help select the best units for the build!
If I only have a mount provision near the water pump inlet, can I just use the 180deg controller (I have a 195 thermostat)? That way it's about 15 degrees less to account for the difference in temperature?
the water pump ports are on the return side of the cooling system, its best for the controller to be installed on the feed side. ideally somewhere in the intake coolant ports.
when the fan is initially kicked on it will be at apx 30% speed, then as the coolant heats up the fan will gradually increase in speed until it reaches 100% speed operation.
ToTALLY DISAGREE Trinary switch is only really beneficial for defrost during winter . No aux fan needed The reason why fan pressure switches are useless is Automotive condensers are about 50%size they need to be . All commercial equipment has at least 2--5x bigger condenser . Fixed displacement compressor . Good high side psi is 150--160psi at 110f . Performance at 160psi is wayway better than a system that operates at 240---250 psi . The only condenser fan to consider is a 12 inch 20amp pusher SPAL particularly on a single condenser fitted to vehicle . Always wired from the compressor wire signal to relay. Compressor on =fan on
If using a Cool only unit you wouldn't use the heater portions, but when in defrost mode the compressor will engage. So you will follow the defrost instructions.
I HAVE A QUESTION TO YOU SIR.. FROM WHERE DOES THE VOLT CURRENT COME TO THE AC SWITCH? AND WHY CAN'T THE AC SWITCH BE IN THE ON POSITION IF THE BLOWER SWITCH IS STILL IN THE OFF POSITION. TQ SIR.
The Ac switch on GEN II systems will come from the fan speed switch or the temp switch on GEN IV units will be delivered power from the ECU. well you CAN have the AC switch set to "on" and the blower set to off but nothing will happen. the fan needs to be running for the AC engagement. otherwise, the coil could freeze up due to no air flow, also keep in mind that the fan switch is essentially the on/off switch.
If you copy and paste this link into the youtube search bar a video will pop up showing the install and details of the monster brushless fan. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-m19BKpd1KEg.html
This is slick, cleans up the Eng. bay, and moves heater hoses OUT of the way of LS swap. One thought / question, this appears to be strictly recirculate air, no fresh air intake? Thanks.
Question, if the rotary AC thermostat is somewhat compromised , will it send less then 12 volts to the compressor?, such as 11.6 or 7?, and does that matter?
Generally speaking, no. if the thermostat goes out it will generally not send any voltage "output" the T-stat is fed voltage from the fan switch and if the fan switch is receiving low voltage I can see how the T-stat would be receiving the low V signal. the T-stat output would need to be 12V so the compressor clutch would properly engage.
