Building and sharing the ownership experience of my 2017 (Yas Marina Blue) and 2018 (Nardo Grey) BMW M3s with videos on mods, maintenance, detailing, car shows and car talk.
Yeah they were. Not terribly, but I mention in the video that I would probably dial back the ratio to 7:1 or maybe 10:1. If that doesn't work I'd just try another product altogether, but I definitely like having a coating on them.
I'll give that a whirl, thanks. I have a bottle of Koch-Chemie Leather Star I haven't tried yet but will be giving that a shot soon. I loved the Colourlock stuff, but with leather I'm always up for testing other products.
I used a 1.4mm orfice on my mjjc s v3.0 and got thicker foam on my active 2.3 than the given 1.45mm orfice while keeping it under 15amps. (14.7 amps, to be exact).
Where'd you get it? I just picked up a 1.5mm from Obsessed Garage for my second foam cannon (I have the 1.45 in the other) but yeah if the 1.4 is under 15A I'd probably prefer that.
At first i tried bimmer code on my 2018 f22. Did not make it full screen. The 1/3 side of the screen where items would usually be just turned white. would you happen to know if i need to code it back to stock inorder for this to work?
Not entirely sure but one thing to check is that you have the latest version of iDrive for your car and also that split screen is disabled. I would check iDrive version; if there's a possible update, revert your BimmerCode change, update, and then check that split screen is disabled (might be in HU_ENTRYNAV or something similar and labeled as split screen display or widget area), and try again. Hope that helps.
So has the problem gone away or do you still have ? Have this issue on mine but not idle . Just when hitting 1800-2k .. and closed it sounds like ass and tin canny
It worked until I installed downpipes, then the issue (rattle) came back. I tried a few things that didn't seem to help except removing cold start with bootmod3 (which I was going to do anyway). That helped closed valve idle rattle, but I still get it on rev/throttle. Valvetronic is sending out a valve controller which comes with a new actuator so I'm going to give that a try. Never had an issue with the sound; are you running aftermarket downpipes?
@@jgo.m3 I am running straight downpipes and I have a rattle at 1800-2k. But I think it's my diffuser is hitting it so going to give that a try first than the bow clip when it arrives as well. I have no rattle at idle or any other rpm but 1800-2k (while driving) and only when closed.
@@Jewnbug1 yeah that could be the problem.. I had that on my old setup but with the heat shield. My current issue is definitely the valve though; with the car running and the valve closed, I stuck the handle end of a broom in one of the exhaust tips and just barely pressed against the valve and the rattling instantly stopped. Worth trying as a test if the diffuser isn't the source.
@@Jewnbug1 I don't think it can.. I'm hoping it just needs more tension from the bow. Yeah man, let me know how it goes. I'll definitely be making a follow up video with all the stuff I tried and hopefully the fix.
Could you please explain why these set-ups have a gate valve immediately before and after the DI filter? I understand having one entering the filter because you'd have it shut if you just wanted to use tap water, but I don't understand having one immediately after the DI filter.
I think it's because it prevents the back flow of water into the tanks. If you didn't have the valve after the tanks and bypassed to the unfiltered water, it would still flow around the loop and fill up the tanks.
I don't remember exactly but I'm pretty sure it was 3/4 or 1" flat head wood screws (bought at home depot; they didn't come with mounting hardware) and I used about 7 or so per fixture. They're super light even with the bulbs in.
@@itskennyyyjai nah, one of them may have gone into a stud but given where the mounting box was, I just used as many screws as there was holes in the fixture.
Just watched this video and you did a great job. I just completed this setup without the water filtration. Got my parts from various sellers. Obsessed Garage is too expensive for me.
Thanks brother, I appreciate that. How are you liking your setup? And yeah OG def procures some crazy top shelf stuff. Sometimes I'll splurge if I think the experience will be worth it or if it's something I learned about from their videos and other times I'll get something cheaper elsewhere.
@@jgo.m3 My system makes washing my cars easier. I have the first generation Active VE52 and figuring out nozzle size to use. Based on the calculator on MTM Hydro I should use a 2.68 orifice, not available, so I got 3.0 to start with. We'll see.
I have a question, I have an active 2.3 and I want to do a DI water setup.. can the CR spotless keep up with the demands of the washer? The manual says it needs an input of 4.8 gpm and CR spotless says they want the output at around 2.5 gpm to maintain 0 ppm
From what I read in the manual, you just need to keep the GPM under 4 if using the DIW/C-20 and it doesn't matter what your PSI is. So far, it seems to work great with the 2.3.
Nope, I have catted down pipes. Catless dps with equal length mid pipes (like on the valvetronic system) will cause rasp. I actually do still get a little bit, but only if I floor it at low RPMs in a higher gear. Also, beautiful F80 you got there! Subbed 🍻
@jgo.m3 thank you for the heads up !! I just got done installing mine and it sounds lovely but the rasp is god awful ..thanks for the heads up !! And thank you for the sub !!!I went valvetronic after watching your vids lmao
Haha nice! I knew I should have hit them up for a referral code. Sorry to hear about the rasp but otherwise hope you're liking the setup. I know mine is pretty insane with catted dps so yours has gotta be a beast at full throttle 🤘
I've read that iDrive 5.0 and up should be compatible but if you have the ENavEvo system it may not work (though some people say it can but you need the wifi adapter). Best bet is to contact any one of these places that sells activation codes and see what your options are. I got mine from bimmer-remote.com/ and they were quick to respond to questions.
Great video brother. I got a tip for u on the water valve you can remove the screw on top of the handle and move it to your like position and screw it back on.
One thing I forgot to mention was that I felt like the 1.45 aerated a bit better than the 1.25 but yeah, it's not as thick. What kind of soap did you use?
I strive for this foam. Sadly I have annoying well water. And trying to get this foam I need a DI system or a filter to just reduce my TDS so I can get this kind of foam. One day I swear I will have this foam lol.
I can't recommend the CR Spotless system enough when it comes to DI. Our TDS levels plus direct sun make washes pretty difficult, but that system is as good as the reviews say it is. 👍
Definitely not worth the risk of damaging the pump. I went from a karcher k1700 to the active 2.0. The first thing I did was find the box my pf22 came in and swapped the 1.1 for the 1.25. Even though I'm on a dedicated 20amp circuit I'm not risking it.
Yeah, I think I tend to think of these videos as a continuation of the last one, but I see how that might not flow well for the audience. Valid point.. appreciate the feedback 🍻
It's definitely loud if you run it in a typical 1-2 car garage. If you're outside with the unit inside though, it doesn't seem any louder than if it were outside with you (which, to me, isn't that loud). As for cage mounted vs sitting on a shelf, I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference over the sound of the unit.
Dude your saved my ass with this video. My door handle reset and was about to lose it. Thanks for covering how to re-seat the door handle. This is the only video I’ve found that touches on that. You’re a god! 🙏🏼
Haha thanks so much brother.. glad it helped 🍻 yeah those door handles are tricky. First time I tried (rear handle) was crazy difficult to get back in.
@@jgo.m3I ordered the Incredible Suds because I was running out of the Mega Foam. I’ll be sticking with the Incredible Suds, it seems to pull off the dirt better. I am going to miss the smell of the Mega Foam though lol
It seems the recommendation for steel braided hoses comes from how a non-steel braided hose can expand slightly under pressure. When you release the trigger the hose is under pressure, if the hose flexes, the pressure in the hose may drop enough for the pressure switch to cause the unit to surge to re-pressurize the hose.
Yeah that makes sense, although in the case of this unit it doesn't happen. Maybe there's some internal function to counter that, but even during frequent start/stop use (like doing wheels) it's always a smooth start up.
Can you confirm something for me please. With the valve close around 1700-1900ish rpm do you get a rasp noise when driving around from the valve at all? I did order the fixing bow and had the car shop yesterday manipulate the other coiled up spring literally 4 times yesterday and the guy does not want to touch it anymore. He feels as though he is going to break the spring; the rasp is still there but not as bad when initially installed. TIA
I don't remember what the RPM range was for the rattle before I installed the fixing bow, but I feel like it was higher in the rev range. If you watch the install video during the revs, you can hear it I think between 5-7k. Otherwise, it was super noticeable during cold start.
hi very interested in purchasing this exhaust for my f80. just a question about the valve actuators. there is two on oem muffler do you leave the one side unplugged and zip tie it off to the side ?
Yep, and to avoid the error an unplugged actuator cable would throw when doing a scan, you can buy a cap for the cable from ECS Tuning: www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-m-performance-parts/dummy-flap-actuator/18302411427/
That sucks, but I'd be interested to hear what gets done to fix it. One of the next videos I'm doing is testing a suggested fix from Valvetronic to see if that works (been meaning to do this for months now).
@@davidlangworthy8413 well, so far I've tried 3 different times reinstalling the fixing bow they supplied after stretching it (per their recommendation) and no dice. Then I ordered an OEM bow from FCP Euro and that didn't seem to work any better. I emailed @valvetronic last week with the findings and to see if they had any other potential suggestions and am waiting to hear back. Holding off on the video cause I wanted to have a definitive fix.. otherwise it's like: "hey I tried all this shit and it didn't work". In any case, I'm well past the warranty period but I'm not looking to send it back or even change it out for a new one if I don't have to.
@@davidlangworthy8413 update: they're sending out a valve controller to see if that works (includes a new actuator). Will let you know (p.s. gotta give them credit on the great customer support)
I just did this on my F36 from 2019, I bought it used with lifetime carplay already enabled, but not fullscreen let me tell you IT'S A WORLDS DIFFERENCE having it in fullscreen DAMN
100ft Cox reel is def worth it. I was able to snag one for $120 at a local liquidation store. I had a generic Amazon PW reel and it’s a night and day difference. Reeling the hose is effortless w the Cox
Yep, before I got mine my kid picked up a cox retractible air hose reel from an estate sale and they seem to be really well made. Reeling in 75ft of hose with this is nothing.
I had bad luck with coxreels with powder coat in the threads and just shotty QC..if bought from OG they are made sure they come perfect tho..still doesnt touch reelcraft, hannay, titan, etc..
Definitely worth the money. My setup was 3 years in the making cause I gradually up graded. I started with the karcher k1700 then bought the og ultimate accessory package. 2 years later bought the shelf and hose reel. Last week purchased the active 2.0 kit for 20% off. The cox hose reel is the best part of the setup case trying to coil up a 75ft hose was the worst part of washing my car.
Yep very similar here.. K1800, small upgrades to that, etc. And 100% agree on the hose reel; it's definitely the one functional thing that makes this so much easier now.
@@jgo.m3 I didn't want to spend the money on the cox reel cause I didn't think it was worth the price. But soon as I got it I was impressed by the quality.
The only comment I can think of is … IF detailing is therapeutic, enjoyable, relaxing, whatever else then cost shouldn’t be a factor. Whatever makes the experience better is an investment in yourself. No need to justify it more than that. 😊😊😊
So I have a 30x30 piece of 1/2 plywood I mounted using 4 hefty 7/16 x 2" long lag screws. Will it be enough to support the shelf w/ pressure washer along with the 100ft hose reel? Im obviously only going to be screwing into the plywood.
Sorry bro, I wouldn't be the one to tell you if that will work. I don't know what shelf you have but if it's the 18 or 20" size, that should be able to go into the studs. For the hose reel, you should consider the backing plate since there will be added tension pulling on the hose as it comes off the reel.
Thanks brother, glad you found it helpful 🍻 Nope, no difference at all. Their main purpose is to hold up better than the stock plastic ones when you increase boost (the stock ones can crack sometimes). Also, they look pretty rad 👍
Thank you brother 🍻 I don't see any reason why you couldn't as long as your temps and PSI are within range. For temps, FastPipe can handle up to 140ºF which is about what residential tap tops out at so you should be good there.
