@@ToddJohnson15 you know the old saying practice makes perfect. I don't find that to be true. I think they should alter that statement to say perfect practice makes perfect. Set yourself some small goals and get them accomplished. This video that we're commenting on has a couple simple objectives. First load the materials in and hold the thread for at least three stitches when you start sewing. Second sew a straight line. Third, make a 90° turn. Fourth stitch a parallel line to the edge of the workpiece. Continue stitching parallel lines all the way to the center. As you do this you will develop some skills and get more accurate as you go. It's a small learning curve but it is not necessarily intuitive so, it requires practice. The more you do it the easier it gets.

@@jesusesquer440 Make sure the pressure feet are coming all the way down and landing on top of the workpiece. Sometimes the pressure foot lifting chain can get tangled and not allow the feet to come all the way down.

Absolutely

If you say so, don't get me wrong I love Jack but this band kicks ass. Mark and Mike are as close to the original band as you can get and the rest of the members have been involved for decades. The only new member is Brett and he did a great job.

@@albaneforleather and Audie

What do you mean by just grunts?

@@albaneforleather Actually, it just hums, motor doesn’t engage. I took off the bottom cover under the feed dog (wish I could send a photo) and it looks like the whole assembly has shifted left of center, but it isn’t loose.

@@pineappleprojects1624 give me a call 818-209-7945

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Thsnks

This is why we load the thread in the guide through discs and back out through the guide again.

I did this and still is not ok

@@polonakadunc9864 it's possible that you have a bad cone of thread. Have you tried changing it to a different thread?

Yes i have

@@polonakadunc9864 are you sure that you are pushing the thread between the two discs until it reaches the center of the bolt? If you aren't seating the thread all the way into the center you won't be developing any tension and the bobbin will wind very loose

The timing moment is 1/8" past the bottom dead center.

The decision is simple. The class 4 with the electronic positioning system. Here are my reasons why. The footprint in the shop between the class 3 and the class for his negligible. So, you're not saving any space. As a long-term operator of sewing machines and leather making I have carpal tunnel and all kinds of arthritic disabilities in my hands from a lifetime of leather work. The electronic positioning system minimizes the need for operating the hand wheel by hand. The computer positions the needle perfectly for pivoting and for removing the material. There is no substitute and it is a great labor saving device. Do yourself a favor and consider these options. There is a learning curve. But with little patience and the little effort you will optimize the system so that it better serves your purposes. Stick with me and I will guide you through the learning process so that you can benefit from your investment.

@@albaneforleather Thanks so much for that info. That was exactly what I was looking to do. I will let you know what I came up with in the next few weeks. Thanks again.

Start over and try again.

It doesn't work quiet like that but close.

I've done my research and bought based on that. I would really be interested to hear from you what differences there are. The only item that could possibly be upgraded on these machines is the bell knife and maybe a belt. Not much other than 60 pounds of cast iron with gears and pulleys.

@@diastoleny okay, think about it for a moment. The body of the machine is basically a hunk of cast iron right? But it's got a bunch of moving parts in it. Those moving parts are subject to exchange. The vendor and in this case we're talking about the leather machine company specifies very specific parts for their machines. They may or may not be different than some of the other vendors selling the same type of equipment. I know that the leather machine company machine as a little wiper that helps guide the leather scrap off the feed roller and down into the trash chute. Another variable part could be like you mentioned, the quality of the bell knife itself. You can bet that there are lots of varieties of the same type of knife. How about the springs associated with the presser foot lift and the feed roller tension? Those parts could be exchanged for better parts as well. So while your statement is mostly correct. There are some variables that the different vendors have to offer. Thank you for your comment.

Im just sharing my experience in order to help other people. I did a lot of research and found not many take the time to share their experiences with unlabeled skivers.Thats the right thing to do. I'm loving mine. All good. ​@albaneforleather

I'm not really the right person to ask. I don't necessarily need to convert a cylinder bed machine to a flatbed by using an attachment. I have flatbed machines that I use when I need them. As far as the workpiece in question I feel that at the time the product needs a little more refinement. The edges were all sharp. The edge guide system that they had designed was cumbersome and basically useless. I didn't find that the product at that time was an upgrade from the original wooden platform that the leather machine company produced. In their defense the product was new and has probably evolved to being a little bit nicer than it was at that time. As far as the leather machine companies product was concerned I think that that work platform greatly outperforms the aluminum one due to the fact that it's just more robust. Sure it takes a couple moments longer to install. Sure it's big and bulky and heavy but it works perfectly. That is as long as the operator is willing to adapt themselves to it. I think the controversy around these platforms came from some exaggerated marketing from a person who didn't necessarily have enough experience to be a product development person. Just because somebody had an idea doesn't always mean it's a great idea. And this is a perfect example of it. Especially with the edge guides. Now again, I will say it that it's been a year and they've probably had the opportunity to upgrade their designs a little bit but overall I wouldn't use it just for the simple fact that I don't believe in converting a cylinder bed into a flatbed machine with a gadget I'd rather just use a flatbed machine when the time was appropriate. Thank you for your question.

I would check out Springfield leather, or Maker's leather. There's also sav- mor leather in downtown Los Angeles. And yes I do use the same size thread in the top and the bottom.

@@albaneforleatherThanks, what type of leather am I looking for?

@@pauleyedwin6056 That's almost like asking me what we want for dinner. Choices like that vary from maker to maker. You're going to have to find what works for you and your customer.

@@albaneforleatherThanks Al, it’s rough being a newbie without a mentor.

Did you get it done yet? It's been 16 hours since you left your comment.

That would indicate that your motor is running backwards

The spring inside the bobbin case is called the bobbin ejection spring. It does exactly that. The bobbin injection springs sole purpose is to help pop the bobbin out when you open the bobbin case. It should not significantly effect thread tension. If you unintentionally install the bobbin where is spinning clockwise then the spring itself is damaged and needs to be replaced.

Thanks for the reply! I purchased the machine used so I’m kind of working backwards on everything. My issue is that if I pull on the string, it’s very hard to pull, then it releases all at once and the bobbin spins. I’m researching now to find out exactly what all components affect that and how to work on it. I figure the spring applying some small amount of pressure would potentially avoid the free spinning effect.

@@919specops sounds like you need to replace the spring. They're not very expensive and easy to install. Just call the leather machine company and they will send you one.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fhhAV7nVLSY.htmlsi=FuJG2H7mClPOktzt

@@albaneforleather thank you so very much. This answered two questions for us.

Did you replace the feed dog correctly? It must rise out of the throat plate about two business cards distance when it's at its highest point.