Yeah its a bit tricky as any adjustment there affects the intercooler alignment and also the height under the bonnet. I found its a bit of a compromise but got it pretty good with no rubbing anywhere. I have since cut the indicators apart and glued LED lights behind the faceplate to retain the factory look but now I have water tight LED's so no more rusted globes
Brilliant job on the video mate. You should do more for your Jayco. I am new to owning a 2010 Expander and I feel I could learn a lot from you. Cheers.
two very different scenarios there bud. Cruising at 100-110 not towing no hill intake temp of ambient +5-10 Uphills under load intake temp ambient +10-20 depending on other variables, towing speed etc. The best part of the setup is much more stable coolant and oil temps, under long sustained loads the temps don't creep like they used to, and they recover much much faster. Still very very happy with the kit
Great video have been watching a few before I start work on my 1hz in preparation for a turbo kit next year, did you turbo yours yourself and did you change your big end bearings also. Thanks for any advice 👍.
Yeah mate, i used a thermo gun to check temps for a few days prior. Bolt showed temp after 10mins of driving, is slightly delayed in temp registration but will still show issues quicker then a submerged sensor if coolant loss is experienced.
Is the motor in the 80 turbo'd? If yes what turbo kit did you go with? Berrima Diesel seems to use the DTS kit with Mitsubishi turbo but some people don't think they suit a 1hz. I need to do my valve shims as it's over 700 k km's now.
Tim I can't thank you enough mate! (replying to my comment (differrent' account name) would have been cool, but heck, the video on water pump is over a year old and you are a busy Dad and Hubby) I watched your water pump/timing belt video I notice I had a blown rocker cover gasket, and that's why I'm here watching this video as mmmm I thought may as well check valve clearances. The extent of my mechanical ability inlcudes (but is limitless with the right teacher such as yourself) is brake pads, and bleed change rotors, install new PS gear box oil change and installing aux battery hooked up to alternator, CB radio, flood lights etc, never done 'in' engine work before my biggest fear the timing belt! but thanks to you Tim, you given me the confidence to give it a crack! You're a bloody Ausssie what's more. A clown from the USA with a youtube video said you don't have to remove timing belt to get to water pump. Umm did he not know that diesel versions exists and not all Landcruiser 80 series are petrol? Thank cricky I found you Tim, Thanks again Dave Captain (FB)
Gidday mate. First off great tutorial, secondly- you spoke of manipulating the bracket to fit. How much of a pain was that? as I need to do exactly what you did but am worried I won't get the new bugger in. Any help appreciated.
Thanks for the vids champ. I had a Runaway with my 1HD-T (long story but low light overfill of oil blew the intake seal 🤦♂️). I have had the CT26 recored, plus ported and polished the exhaust Mani same time, initial borescope didn't show any internal damage + no shrapnel or swarf in oil dump. Now only running on >3 cylinders (no nasty noises) now so about to do timing belt (60k until next due) and check valves/springs/shims, and comp test each cylinder. And this vid is almost bang on albeit 1HZ but still same. Hoping it's just a timing issue and not injector/pump failure/s and/or piston issues 😢. Thanks for ya time bro 🤌🤙🤜
@@tinkeringtimmy4061 super sad face, have to replace 4 of 6 injector nozzles, and 2 full injectors. Apparently running at 8K+rpm on oil as the fuel has a carbonising effect 😂😂😂 at least the pump wasn't dead.
@@CCMiniBucks anyway we could talk further, i believe the same thing happened to me and having to do the work myself so any tips and findings would be super helpful. At this point I have everything apart and used a bore scope to verify no metal, I ordered a new turbo just to speed the process up, next step for now is to put everything back together and 🤞that it runs ok but I have my doubts 🤦
Air filter restriction. There is a sensor on the side of the airbox with a little hose either side of the air filter. If a difference in pressure exceeds the sensor the light comes on.
This video was so good in terms of exactly what to do. At the end of the video I thought, I'll give it a crack But then I read,........ " I highly recommend you seek out a mechanic if this is beyond your skillset, a mistake here is expensive'', that gave me second thoughts. My water pump seal is gone, so I was going to put new gasket but now after seeing this video I think I'll replace the pump. I don't know how long it's been on there for, could be original for all I know. 380,000 kms on clock at present. 1996 1HZ 80 series diesel turbo manual. Question: should I remove radiator, battery, fan, and other stuff you took off to do the work needed to remove water pump? of course, I will replace timing belt while I'm at it, I've never done this before, The most I have done alone was remove and replace power steering gear box (and that took me 3 weeks working on and off, it was a nightmare and nearly killed me lol (in terms of mental frustration). Like 3 days to get 1 stubborn nut off. I'd get the shits and come back next day have a go give up after 2 hours then come back 3 days later have a go same shit, then come back 2 days later and got the nut off. Then every step was a challenge, but I got there in the end. So I'm wondering if I am up to doing the water pump. I have a manual but need to buy a torque wrench I pretty much got all the tools oh and I bought a rattle gun! (for when I changed the rotors and brake pads) as I learned doing the steering box the nuts haven't been touched for 30 plus years and I couldn't budge them, I ended up putting a blow torch on the nuts. I am a pensioner so going to a mechanic is going io cost a shit load in labor. I would appreciate your advice,... should I attempt this job? I reckon I could do it if I used your video as a reference. Oh I got a mechanic to put the 2 inch lift kit on as I didn't want to stuff that up.
Radiator shroud needs to be removed along with fan and batteries and battery boxes. Radiator can stay in. If you have an understanding of engine timing the job isn't to hard, just got to be 100% certain and double/triple check everything. If your not confident take it to a capable mechanic, it isn't a labor intensive job.
Thanks Tim for your comment. Mate a mechanic is not an option. I started and I’m up to taking off the plate in front of WP. I started Mon it is Thursday. I undid a nut and gas came spraying out in my face and I tightened the nut to shut it off but it kept omitting gas. I couldn’t get the rocker cover off 1st bolt at fire wall cos the pipe was in the way so I loosened it so I had room to lift off the rocker cover. I think it was air con gas as the pipe was alloy . Tim, Is it just a matter of me re-gassing?
@@ALLASALAMI666that’s your heater valve and heater core inlet pipes. I took the 2 bolts loose from the heater valve to give a little more room for the rocker panel to slide in. Not sure what gas you are referring to that came out when you took the nut off 🤷
Best explanation I have found on these heaters. Very thorough, other people gloss over so much of the details that I wanted to know about the install and running procedure 👍
Im in the process of doing mine, this is my first time dealing with shims and buckets. i got tdc measurements but i couldnt tell if i got it at 180. but all shims where off the lobes on other 6. do you reckon that would be ok? cheers
two big screwdrivers on some that were stubborn. otherwise most came out with a trim removal tool you get from auto shops for door cards/ trim panels. Some broke in the process but new ones are supplied so happy days.
Excellent job! Very helpful and informative, recent HDJ81 1-HDT owner here and the TB and water pump change out are on the baseline maintenance list. Thank you for posting and subbed to your channel.
@@tinkeringtimmy4061 I ended up having to replace my ECU & Controller. The dosing pump would come on, make -4- pulses, then shut off. causing a E-06 fault. You couldn't even use the prime circuit either So. I'm off to learn a newer ECU, which has even less control
good video, because you do water pump too , so must remove the fan, enough room to use Phillip's head to put the spring back, today I only replaced the timing belt, didn't Remove the fan, I use flat head to put the spring back, I think you know what I mean 😉
