My name is Stefan, I like to work on all different types of projects in my home workshop. As you can see in my video's list I mainly focus my projects on milling, turning, 3D printing and all types of aerial RC stuff.
I have a lot of projects in stock that I will start sharing here on my channel soon!
Thanks! The x axis trapezoid nut install was driving me crazy and seeing what you had to do to get them installed was both helpful and relieving that I wasn’t the only person struggling with that part insertion.
I have to say tat I didn't test it to the limit. I think the thing to watch out for most is fatigue over time. But my 80mm facemill is still sitting well in the holder seen in this video. So that is.... oh damn, 4 years allready. Time to make a new video!
It is indeed something that takes a bit of "feel". Normally the tension of belts is given by the manufacturer, but I'm not sure what the manufacturer of these is so I did it by feel. But if you want it better defined, Gates has a lot of calculators for this specific task on their website: www.gates.com/us/en/knowledge-center/calculators/belt-tension-calculator.html
That is the canon one right? I'm sorry I never got to making it. At the moment I'm rather busy with a massive other engineering job so I don't think I will make it anytime soon.
Thank you for this! I'm preparing for my MK3S+ build next week and have been very nervous about a few key points in the process, your build videos have really put my mind at ease. Cheers!
Thank you, i'm happy with it as well! I will start the build once I'm done with my current massive engineering job. That one will be shared once it has been handed over to the customer and recordings/pictures are published. What can be said is that it is the largest sportfishing yacht in the world by a big margin. www.royalhuisman.com/the-stage-is-set/#
Well the idea is that you eliminate slop in the joints without introducing a significant amount of friction caused by the spring that is pulling the 2 arms on each axis together. Aside from that: it looks cooler but the first given reasons where the primary in the decision.
Thanks for the comment. The assembly is split into 4 video's, this is the 4th and last video. I'm sure that you will find the frame assembly in part 1 or part 2 of the prusa assembly video's
@@StefsEngineering yup, I'm an idiot. I found that after looking at your channel. Sorry for the rude comment, just frustrated in the moment. Thanks again.
Hi, very good job indeed.Thanks for sharing. I have printed MT2 and ER25 and ER 32 collet holders, and I am very happy with that. Do you plane to do the same for ER40 collet holders?
My pleasure! I can recommend the other storage method though that I designed after that. More efficient, easier to reorganize/customize and a lot easier to make. Only thing you need for that (besides the printed models) are a couple din-rails and a surface (wall or side of a cabinet) to mount them on.
Thanks for the comment! I just noticed it. It is a nice and simple way to lock it in place on these small lathes. I do not recommend using it on larger lathes though, with a large drill (12mm) in the tailstock I can make it move when I push the drill hard enough in the material. Aside from that I'm happy that I did this mod, saved me a lot of time loosening and fastening the original nut in the last couple years!
Great idea, got here as I could not find DIN rail tool boxes and hooks to buy. Why is no one making them... By the way do these have a locking screw or bottom clip. The look very easy to dislodge and there is a lot of expensive chucks and collets on them..
Thanks for the comment! They do not at the moment, I haven't had any issues with them coming loose from the rail but I was considering updating the models to add a locking screw.
Thanks for the reply, I like them because it gives me better visibility. the regulator is set to the same CFH as with the regular cup so it doesn't matter. It is just more expensive so not the best fit for people that are clumsy. I still have the same cup on the torch so this isn't an issue for me. (The torch is a CK9 with gassaver gaslens collet and screen and a number 8 cup. Argon is set to 10-15cfh depending on enviroment)
Thank you for the comment. I plan to get back to making video's! I'm not sure where to begin though, I've got a lot to show about the paradrone project and a large number of side projects I'd like to share. Oh and I moved to a new house with a new (temporary) workshop and a really cool large workshop that is under construction.
Exactly! But didn't I show it in the past? I believe I also used it in a couple video's, for example the one where I made vise clamp blocks for that milling machine. Well I'm sure it will be featured in one of the next couple video's. Thanks for the reply!
Hey Stef! Thanks for the awesome videos! I purchased the kit version a couple of days ago and I am really excited for it! How has yours held up? are you still happy with the finished result? I was thinking of cleaning the linear bearings in some Isopropyl alchohol and then repacking them with some Super lube synthetic grease, do you think there is much value in me doing that? keen to hear your thoughts :D
I have ac/dc .the machine doesnt support remote control ,but you can change amps while you are welding with switches.I am making 3 pedals right now .1 for on/of 2 amps+ 3amps-.I tryed already it works like that .you can change around 5amps/s with this method which is very slow if you compare to potentiometer control but can help you with aluminium welds
I’ve had this tig welder for 2 years now, bought it from BOC UK. Great tool, HF start is brilliant and crisp and controls are good also. I put a cheap machine pedal switch on mine just as a switch makes it a lot easier when using a ck9 torch and BBW cup on an exhaust etc. Shame they didn’t put remote current control but oh well.
Yeah you are right, I didn't like it on my torch so I made a pedal myself (this welder only supports on/off so no proportional control unfortunately but still nice to use!)
@@StefsEngineering I am planning to use it to restore a car, so a pedal won't be useful most of the time. Proportional control would be nice, but I can't justify spending 1000 euro for a Jasic AC/DC for options I am probably never going to use.
@@StefsEngineering I got myself a Jasic 200P DC yesterday and mine has a 5-pole connector for the switch. I hope it will accept a pedal with proportional control, I haven't tested it yet.
Well it faded a bit into the background due to the other projects I was working on and I moved to a new home a couple months ago and it required quite a bit of time and effort to get it ready. I will get back to it in the next couple weeks I think. It's about time right?
You are right, the important thing is that the distance between the center of each of the bearing balls is the same. It is easier to determine the correct length though when they are straight (in this instance).
