I scour back yards, junk yards and social media in several states and spend time buying, repairing, and selling, at a reasonable price, or trading dead cars.I have been doing this for over 50 years and am good at it.
If you are interested in one of the cars, you can email me at roadhogg1955@gmail.com.
@@DEADCARRESCUE I asked you a simple question. It would appear that you lack the mental capacity to answer a simple question. You seem to be someone who exhibits childlike behavior.
It was the best fun I’ve ever had for $800 and I am doing it again this Sunday also. I put headers, slicks and removed the power steering. Rear gears coming soon.
Ralph nader didn't ban anything. He was a shister As far as the Edsel the 58 had a push button transmission that was messed up but by 59 the Edsel was just a 59 Ford.
You and the chevy truck done good on the track I know your gonna fix it to where you'll have more chevy power you could do like the guy did on a show called the farm truck but doing a simple job on it the old chevy truck will be as good and better I'll watch the next video on it after you do to it to have more horse power I believe in the old truck things will be better next time sorry for your loss of your friend shank
Why not demonstrate tuning before going to the track? Ensure WOT, timing, ignition part condition, carb setup, unplug the vacuum advance, reduce drum brake drag, align the front end with a tape measure, maybe drill the front shocks, stuff the rears, cut the spring clamps... you're old. Show us the old school tricks and test them out. That would make more interesting content than swapping manifolds and picking up 4/10s
1:54 you're referring to the air filter not the breather element and flipping the lid is done to increase airflow on closed air filter housing, not the open element shown
That time is what Google says but the real result is largely dependent on trap speed vs e.t. Just like potential of a 1/4 mile car is more accurately assessed by examining speed than time.
I think your car looks nice. It looks nice before you start it. People might say we could have done this or the other thing. Maybe even boiled linseed oil. But this is a more permanent fix with the proper prep then anything else you could have done for the money. I looked at an original four-door Fairlane and the man wanted something like $12,000 for it. But it only had something less of 18,000 mi. So how can you ruin the value of something in that price range and less? There's plenty of guys who strip off the original clear coat on vehicles from the 90s and early 2000s. Just so they can get more money out of it when they sell it. I think car looks great 👍👍
haa you do whatever you want thats anamazing job dont forget you be fighting a horrible color,,, it just screams grocery getter i have no idea what to tell ya enjoy it,,,,, maybe look at other rim,s n tires schemes me i might find 4 very normal cragars for it
What do I use to buff out those dry spots? I’ve used Auto Magic Power Cut Plus on a buffer but it’s still rough to the touch. I wet sanded a spot on the hood and made it smooth like glass but still have sanding scratches. I used wet 1200 grit. I’m stumped as what to do now. :(
Watching this old trucker learn this and handle that paint gun like he did is unbelievable, great job, learning as you go you did GREAT 👍 Talk soon my northeast Arkansas friend.
lol that’s true. Hey back in the 70’s my brother bought a 64 galaxie with a laced roof. We always wondered if that was a California thing but never actually knew.
@@DEADCARRESCUE I think it is a California thing. But easy to do. Casey’s customs got a video on it or copperhead Kustoms. Just a bit of fun. Good luck.
I think your first coat was a bit heavy. Really should be a thin tack coat. I don’t think a tack rag matters when you not in a spray booth. It is what it is for a ten footer. Maybe should have saved your money and put a boiled linseed mix on it. I think original would retain more value. But good job. Thanks for showing us. Have a good week. 👍
First time you did great my friend. it looks great in most areas but you expected them areas. Now the one area, if you want to fix it and I know you do. I personally would get a touch up gun from the same place you bought the others. Mix up some clear, do it now. cover the area but feather out the edges, repeat till you are happy. Let it dry and then with a small buffer blend in the edges
Great 1st time 🎉 yes you can cut & buff. I would be careful depending on how many coats you applied. The multi-panel clear is good for doing like a side of a car or just a couple of panels. Clearing a whole car you have to keep all your paint edges wet by jumping from side to side. Also having some Urethane grade reducer handy if you have a dry spot like that you could reduce your clear by 10% & spray over it before it completely dried, that would help melt it back in.
The body on that car is real solid for being the age that it is I live in Canada and that is considered rust free around here. I have seen a lot worse then anything on that car.
That's how they did it back in the day before repro floor pans were made they would go out to the junk yard and cut the good steel off a scrap car and weld it into the good car. I would rather do that then have to make a panel or pan at lest it's genuine ford steel and not a piece of tin fashioned to look like it.
The 260 badge gives it away that it was not a V8 car to start with. I'm not a big ford guy I'm a Mopar guy myself but there are some fords that are cool and the Fairlanes are cool cars my favorite year is the 57 Fairlane. My mothers first car was a 66 Fairlane with a 289 anyway thats a cool find
