Just a God fearing Truck Driving American trying to do my best for my family & my community and I am a defender of life and liberty and I stay prepared so that I am capable of defending my family and my community.
@@Bazzmotives if it’s not resting on your firing pin than it could be your hammer strut may be too short and the lack of main spring engagement with the strut is allowing the firing pin spring to push the hammer back a small amount. Easy fix, hop on eBay or egw and order a 1911 hammer strut. Possibly buy an oversized strut (it may say gun smith fitment required) and you’d just sand off what you don’t need or just leave it as is and run a light 17lbs mainspring
I don’t think that is truly DLC then bud. Also, the base metal must be carbon steel you think? Would it be better to get a DLC over SS? I’d love another video with better lighting or outside in the sun.
@@HammerK99 lol that really did make me laugh. Atlas selling $6000 guns with fake DLC that would be hilarious but no it is not fake DLC and I have yet to see a 1911 slide made of stainless steel. You cannot Blue stainless steel by the way. All of the 1911 slides I have are made of carbon steel, which is easy to blue. I have a stainless steel P3 65 XL slide with DLC coating and it is very similar except it is harder to cover up any scratches. I’ll see if I can make another video. I get some.
@@americantrucker9813 I understand, I understand. I’m looking at DLC now because of how well they hold up on my ZT knives I just watched an Atlas Gunworks video and he’s using the terms DLC, PVD, and TiNi as synonyms , when they are not. He’s also blaming being sweaty and Florida weather for corrosion on their DLC. Confusing to me since DLC is extremely corrosion resistant and it is never referred to as being the same as a PVD. DLC has a HRC as high as 67 making “scratches” from your kydex holster very suspect. As to your comment that 1911 slides aren’t made in SS, that is hilarious. Congratulations on having a $6000 firearm. Not sure of the pertinence of such a comment.
@@HammerK99 OK expert. you’re just one of those know it all guys who is very narcissistic I own 16 1911s some of which are 2011s which is the same thing and none of them have a stainless steel slide but apparently you are the God of everything lol
@@HammerK99 the pertinence of the comment was as stated, very sarcastically, as if atlas gun works with an impeccable reputation in the competition shooting and custom gunmaking community are just somehow selling $6000 guns with fake DLC coating because some guy on the Internet says so
I assume that one has to be careful not to alter the disconnector ramp too far or you would run the risk of the pistol being able to fire out of battery?
@@tfrank328 no, that won’t result from removing too much material. if you remove too much it can cause an issue feeding but you would have to remove a lot of material and there’s no need. You’re simply just removing enough to clear your disconnector, it is easier and smoother for your disco rail to press down on the disconnect than for it to catch it with the edge & overcome that friction and than press down. I’ve seen some that don’t have the Marvel cut and aren’t bad & I’ve seen many almost get stuck open on that disconnector. On the 1911, it would be just about impossible to fire out of battery. it isn’t until the slide is all the way forward that the disconnect can reset into the slide cut at the rear of the disco rail. Not to mention the hammer itself can’t fall until the slide is forward.
@@fitvetwyatt I’m not sure the name but no it’s not flush it’s out of spec & Too Short on two separate sig p365 XL Slides and they custom support was pretty rude when I contacted them so I’ll never be buying anything from them again.
@@americantrucker9813 Damn, that's pretty unfortunate. I thought about getting a XL barrel for mine and then cutting the ports into the barrel to match the slide. Now that I see those brass grips i'm also thinking I need those and to Cerakote the gun to be a pearlescent green/gold
You can definitely do that plan but you’ll just have to be okay with modifying the Original slide. There is nothing significant about these slides. They are standard Sigg P365. “Comp”d” slides standard for multiple models like the X macro
@@bryantieu3454 I used my dremel with a type of wire wheel. Not sure what it’s called but blending is tough because everything needs to be symmetrical so I found the wire wheels to do a nice job because they don’t creat big flat spots
@@BlxvkMamba absolutely I would recommend the easiest way would be to buy a slide and barrel & keep your original slide in barrel for either another build or just to have so you can restore the gun to factory one day because to do this with your factory slide. You will have to alter it and a way that it can never use the original barrel. I recommend slides from this company. I’ll post the link.norsso.com/slides/sig-p365-365xl/p365xl/
okay sweet but you would have to port the slide and barrel again in the new after market ones right? Seems like it. Also what’s the issue with OEM slide. Why can’t a 3.7 inch barrel go inside? Feel like all you need to do is port the barrel and get a new recoil guide rod right?
@@BlxvkMamba the sig comp’d slide is just an XL slide with slide cuts and a 3.1 inch Non ported barrel. Because of their design a 3.7 inch barrel will not fit without modification into the comp’d slide. Porting is a separate upgrade similar to a comp but different and sigs comp’d slide is similar to a compensator but different. I noticed zero gain in any aspect from this 3.1 inch barrel & comp’d slide. I find the gun more accurate and flatter shooting with a 3.7 inch normal barrel & XL slide but it’s all personal preference. If you want a comp or porting you’ll have to run a a new slide & barrel for either.
@@deborah9229 the prodigy is the cheapest 2011 on the market as far as I know. And they build the guns but don’t tune them so sending it back and waiting 6 months is a waste of everyone’s time. This platform has been around for well over 100 years. It’s easy to tune for anyone with no gun smith training. I aspire to be a true renaissance man & Statesman so my entire life is DIY.
@@americantrucker9813 will do! Really excited to see that. That is a real beautiful piece of machinery. I thought my builds were nice but they wouldn't even make the list compared to yours.
@jayhuff8988 well I really appreciate that. Thank you very much and I’m sure that’s not true. It’s not about which is best but it’s about what is best for you. Make it how you like it regardless of what others think but I appreciate the kind words my friend!
@adambrown5601 you can either take a piece of metal tape and put it on the face of the guide rod that touches the frame of your gun (adding length to your guide rod if it’s too short but very close in spec) or it may be short because your Barrel link/Barrel/ slide stop aren’t tuned properly. You can buy a new slide stop (that’s gun smith fitting required) and fit to slide stop to the barrel/ barrel link or Buy a pack of atlas barrel links and start small and work up until you have a nice tight lock up and your guide rod is flush. The barrel link plays a part in the position of the slide to frame but the barrel itself also plays a part as does the Slide stop. I removed my barrel entirely and then reassembled and found my Barrel allows my slide to go too far forward so I use the barrel link & slide stop to lock into battery.
@@slip718 it depends what the damage is are you talking about the DLC being scratched off? If so, I recommend Birchwood Casey super blue to cover any scratches (it will not work on stainless steel though I’m not sure what metal the sandviper is made of, it’s probably mild carbon steel if that is the case, it will work) if by damage you mean, discoloration like mine in this video then yes it will clean out the pores of the DLC and then you can oil it and wipe it off and it’ll be good as new. Hope that helps my friend.
The Sandviper is a unique bronze color. The scratch is on the slide and doesn’t reach the bare metal beneath. It’s more like a hard rub. Thank you for your response.
@slip718 so according to their website, the bronze it is still a DLC coating & DLC is porous in nature and requires upkeep so yes cleaning with acetone and then use gun oil to lubricate the DLC and then wipe it off with a memory cloth. Atlas gun Works has a pretty cool video on how to take care of DLC coated guns that is essentially where I learned this stuff from so if any of my information is incorrect, I apologize that is where I got it from. And you’re welcome.
Atlas is awesome and everything they make is beautiful and flawless! However, they are human and do make mistakes, but they will surely take care of them. I only have one atlas firearm. It is the NYX V2 optics ready and I absolutely love it. It is amazing. It is an excellent EDC gun but if I could do it over, I think I would have ordered a Hyperion and got Atlas to do the Optics cut on it. The 4.6 inch is just as easy EDC in my opinion, considering my EDC choice of lately is a 5 inch Prodigy that I’ve overhauled.
@@paulcartmel1373 someone done that to your double stack? I don’t understand? so you’re saying somebody broke into your house and ruined your slide by doing a marvel cut incorrectly? Or you’re saying you gave your gun to somebody to do a marvel cut that didn’t know how to do a marvel cut? The marvel cut has been around for a long time and it doesn’t ruin anything, it improves reliability by removing friction and creating a more reliable feeding.
Lmao that’s crazy thanks tor the information and it makes perfect sense ! I’ve yet to hear back from Springfield armory customer support !!! They just ignored me
@@americantrucker9813 yeah Agency arms has a similar plate on other guns, but they produce those plates and cut the slides for them. I got my Glock cut by Agency arms and use the AOS system. Really good lock up and solid plate with no movement when it’s on the slide.
@@zarinkai2927 it definitely does and Not even staccato offer any model with an Aluminum grip so it puts it into a class with the most expensive 2011s in the country
I totally agree. It definitely does, for all of those prodigy haters they go on about nonsense. The prodigy is an excellent 2011 for the price point, with some cheap parts & tuning you can upgrade in on par with the best of them.
@@zarinkai2927 you got the stainless steel grip?? I want one of those, but I hope you realize how heavy it is. It isn’t practical for any type of carry. But it will be amazing on the range. Definitely update me and let me know how you like it.
I didn’t either at first but that’s what came with my Atlas and after Shooting both side by side it was obvious why they were designed that way. The high Ambi safety’s allow your thumb to get leverage with the bore and control muzzle flip better. Now I don’t like shooting without them.
Got my popcorn ready !!!!! I love this !!!!! You have been a tremendous help for my 4.25 creation and this is much appreciated. Oh, just wanted to let you know I installed the Cyelee "Ghost" optic after having great results with other Cyelee products. Great optic !!!!! Huge window with a 26 moa circle and dot. It is very fast to use. 🙂
Hey bro do you do work on prodigy’s I have the 5in and the 4.25 and I’m looking to have some work done . I have seen a lot of your stuff and just wondering if u do work for other people
@@gsj0810 No the L2 & E2 grips are the Exact same Except the E2 has the Grip safety deleted and a different grip angle more like a CZ Shadow 2 is the best way to describe it. All Atlas GunWorks firearms come with the E2 aluminum grip style so that should say something.
@@bassbrothersstories4006 my friend, the prodigy is an excellent firearm but unfortunately they aren’t all sent out the door Tuned properly but if your willing to run through it and make some fine tune adjustments any model will be a sound choice! I have a 4.25 & 5.00 and I love the 5inch the most ! It’s more fun to shoot than my Atlas Nyx V2. But yes that is the Cheely Aluminum L2 grip but I’ve modified it to be more like the E2 grip. I recommend the E2 grip, that’s the one I wish I had bought instead.
Honest outlaw just released a video on the 4.25 comp yesterday. Seems they worked out some of the kinks. I ordered the 4.25 comp a few days ago. Excited to get it in! Thanks for the vid trucker! Definitely considering an aftermarket safety from atlas or egw
@@B00MSTICK-0PERATOR it sounds like a couple of things could be the issue. Have you taken it apart? It sounds like your plunger is missing or underpowered. And the cheap Mim safeties aren’t the best but they should fit snug together the left and right. When you put them together, it should be difficult to pinch them together
@@NEEZY69 yes you’ll need to polish it if you want a shiny polished finish. This will only change the color of the metal it will not change the finish itself if it is Matte or if it is polished. And what do you mean how did I hear it?
@@americantrucker9813 sorry it was a typo! I meant to ask, how did you heat the parts up to get the color. Also what was your process on stripping the finish and doing the semi polish?
i will try both of these later this evening to narrow down the problem. I’d love to eliminate the grip safety. Last question I think, is it possible to eliminate the grip safety with stock parts and stock grip? I want an aluminum grip but it’s out of my price range
that’s excellent advice. My gun is all factory parts besides a flared magwell. I guarantee you’d know probably within seconds what is happening LOL. I didn’t realize it would still function with the safety removed. I will try that. Process of elimination. I had the safety out. The daggon thing seem tight, no wiggle anywhere. Snaps into each other with a lot of pressure. But I agree, I need to just get some quality internals and parts for it I reckon. Thank you so much for your time. Thoughts and prayers for dad PS RU-vid won’t let me reply so I have to comment. Gives me an error when trying to.
@@jtrawson442 thank you very much ! I really appreciate that my friend! And EGW internal kit is worth the money in my opinion, that is what comes factory in the Most expensive 2011s on the market for a reason but the MiM parts are just fine if your Not shooting 20,000 rounds a year. The problem with allot of the mim parts is the tolerances vary, so you can have good parts or bad or some good & bad. Your safety’s sound good, that’s what you want nice & snug with no play. You can also remove the Grip safety and Do function tests without that as one more thing to check. It’s possible it’s not clearing the trigger now and it’s pinching the top of it as you press it. If that’s the case than you can simply sand the leg of the grip safety and it will fix that issue. I recommend deleting the grip safety because for Self Defense I believe it’s a liability. More so with the aluminum grip I have. If you don’t get a perfect purchase on the grip it won’t disengage your grip safety and in a life & death situation you never know what grip you’ll get.
I see what you’re saying but it’s almost like the grip safety isn’t fully disengaging sometimes even when I’m gripping it tight. And then the safety, possibly a separate issue, will stay either on or off but sometimes when disengaging the safety (from on to off) it will get stuck in the middle which really confuses me the detent doesn’t seem to be on anything and I don’t know what’s inside to figure it out. Hope that’s not confusing
@@jtrawson442what internals are you running ? Factory or Aftermarket? And what safeties including grip ? That description sounds like your safety’s aren’t Fitted properly. The only thing your grip safety can do is block the trigger bow from moving rearward, it can’t prevent it from moving forward. If I was holding your gun I’d figure it out in 60 seconds lol but it’s hard to imagine what you’re trying to describe and diagnose the issue. I have a disassembly video. if I were you, I would take the safeties off and check the function of the grip safety. ( I actually recommend deleting the grip safety but that is for you to decide) and make sure you cycle the slide & reset the trigger and if there’s no issue than you know it’s a Safety issue. I also recommend for left-handed shooters to buy a high-quality set of ambidextrous safeties because the factory safeties are metal injection molded so they are very poor quality and the safety is on the left-handed side for a right handed shooter and an Ambi set of safeties has a single pin that connects to that left side safety and for it to function properly from the right side of the gun it has to be a very tight fitment which you’ll find on higher quality Ambi sets. There could be Play in your safety’s. Mainly you just need to narrow down what part is causing the issue by checking the function of each individually
Looking good man! Hey I have a question. My prodigy 4.25 is doing something weird with the safety. Sometimes It’ll hang up in between on and off while using the right side. I’m a lefty. Seems to really do it when pushing the grip safety in. Also, related or not, when this happens the trigger is very hard to pull. Any thoughts?
Thank you, buddy and your safety blocks the sear from moving, the grip safety stops the trigger bow from moving rearward, the trigger bow pushes the sear rearward which releases the Hammer. If the Safety is in the middle it will cause Friction with the sear and when pulling the trigger the sear would be fighting the Safety (the sear will not be able to move freely) to fix your issue I would start by etching a Dimple into your safety ( exactly where the plunger hits the safety in the OFF & ON position) you can use a dremel with a Engraving tool to do this I have a video showing how, and that will prevent your safety from easily falling into this middle position. I do this on all of my 1911s & 2011s because it’s a common issue. Also Atlas makes really nice Safetys (fat & wide paddles ) so it gives your thumb a nice ledge to make sure the safety is disengaged when you are shooting. And the make them for Left handed shooters as well
Good stuff. I’ve fit 2 safeties and they’re were EGW HD safeties and I had to take meat off of the lever and there’s a sweet spot that’s easy to miss.. this is a great solution
@@anthonyguida2202 lol 😆 thank you and that is funny! I’m not laughing at you. I just think it’s fascinating when people say that as if they can get shot from an empty gun through a phone.
@RockOfAgesCFM without a doubt it definitely loosened up a bit not to bad All of the prodigies will loosen up a bit because Springfield is cheap as fuck and they cerakoted the entire Frame including the rails and instead of Polishing the rails and than fitting the slide they fitted the slides to the cerakoted rails. And when the cerakote wears down they loosen up. But that is not a bad thing. They run much smoother & more reliable with a Little play. My $6,000 atlas was fitted so tight to its polished rails there was Zero play but after 2,500 round or so even it loosened up a bit. If it’s lubed up there no play but if it’s dry there’s some play. If you want to tighten yours up than you can lube the rails really good
lol I know! But I do understand why atlas won’t sell them, because than nobody would pay $6000 for their guns they’d just build their own. There currently isn’t any 2011 aluminum grips like The Atlas Alpha grip but I do recommend Cheely Aluminum grips . The only difference is they don’t have modular grip panels. I got mine via buying an Atlas Nyx V2
@@86steventura so unfortunately Atlas has increased their prices significantly! I just ordered a new set of Safetys (I wanted to try the IDPA ambi’s) and a new Silver Trigger Shoe NO Bow because I already have a Atlas trigger bow and it was like $35 for the trigger shoe by itself and it used to be $15 or $20 I can’t remember exactly but it wasn’t no $35 but if you do not have an atlas trigger bow, then yes you will need to select on the bottom tab the color you bought for example Medium Black - 2011 and it will come with the trigger shoe & bow for $59. And if you order a couple more things you can get free shipping I recommend getting their Ambi safeties! They are excellent!
@@86steventura it’s very important to select 2011 for your prodigy & not 1911 ! The 1911 trigger bow is much skinnier for a single stack magazine. The prodigy is called a 1911 DS but it is a 2011.
@86steventura you’re welcome and I completely understand my friend! I do it all the time, but I just tell myself it’s an investment! But Atlas is awesome and they ship very fast! Hopefully you were experienced with them will be the same as mine have been. Let me know if you need any help installing.
I run the same exact set up as you and I just got my mini wing in the other day. Do you think you could point me in the direction of your magazine release? And how did you go about getting the stainless steel finish. Did you code it with anything or is it just the cerakote ground off. It’s very unique. Do you plan on upgrading the trigger at all? That is my next step I believe, although I don’t know how I feel about putting a lighter trigger on my every day carry.
@@_NMO_ the trigger is the Mcarbo Flat trigger. And the magazine release is the strike industries magazine release. The Sig slides are all stainless Steel so no coating needed. Just sand blast and you can polish or use a scorch pad in one direction to achieve a brushed steel finish.
@@_NMO_ the Mcarbo trigger is the best one available in my opinion. It’s just an adjustable trigger shoe. It does however make the trigger on my sig 4lbs. And originally it was 5.5 to 6lbs
It is certainly my favorite finish! I have a video on my channel. Titled is the 5 inch prodigy better than the 4.25 inch prodigy and in that video I talk about how to achieve this finish yourself.
@@paulgee3411 because pointing my gun at a human would be irresponsible. Pushing your gun against anyone would be pretty stupid. This entire scenario is stupid! Thought up by dudes thinking they are real life navy seals
