Welcome to T4 Tips & Guides. My name is Marc, and I have owned my 1999 Volkswagen T4 Transporter 1.9TD 800 Special for 18 years.
A few years ago, I decided to start filming some of the repair jobs I undertake on my T4 in the hope it would help other owners.
With over 1 million views on RU-vid and a lot of positive feedback, I am happy to say the creation of content that helps others is always worth the effort.
I added that step to the description after forgetting to use sealant during filming. I also added a link to a video showing where to place the sealant. I thought I had pinned a comment telling viewers to look in the description. I'll pin your comment now.
Perfect, thank you.. mine broke a few months ago, doesnt spin all the way round like yours, but i have no control over the heat... gives me something to look into. cheers
When it first broke years ago, I spent a few weeks using the diverter valve arm under the bonnet to control the temperature. It wasn't ideal. Hope you get your one fixed
There is more than one leak. In this video I show the water is coming in where the A pillar joins the roof 2:15 and also where there is some separation behind the weather strip 2:24. After showing the water coming in I then show where those areas relate to on the exterior of the van. As a temporary fix I have used black duct tape around the edge of the windscreen and Dirko grey sealant in the crack behind the weather strip. The van is now dry. The windscreen is also leaking along the bottom of the frame and no doubt in a few other places as well. The purpose of this video was to show leaks in places that might not be so obvious and also to demonstrate the borescope.
Hello mate I have been chasing a leak recently on the drivers side I have a video showing it and I've had the screen done the apature was absolutely perfect I was driving home from the window place and no rain but water must have been still in the a pillar because I could see it leaking I recon somewhere in these areas are my problems thanks for the video its gave me some inspiration on my next video ill be looking to quote this video for others to watch ? Cheers dave
@scousebikers Hi Dave. Thanks for watching. When I filmed the video I forgot to show inside the bottom of the A pillar. A centimetre or two below where the water is leaking out, where I removed the plastic tab, there is some kind of foam. It is kind of like expanding foam. Water can well up and sit on top of it for weeks. The area where the top of the A pillar joins the roof and the crack/separation behind the weather strip, is, in my opinion, a major weak spot on T4s. I think it affects more vans than people realise. It has caused the passenger side step under the plastic cover to rot on my van. Probably the cause on many other vans too. I have left the rubber floor covering out of the van until I get the leak sorted properly. Rusty water leaked out the back of the matt (van always parked facing uphill) and into the plywood floor in the back and up into my new vinyl oak effect effect flooring, that it now ruined. Water leaks are the absolute worst, but it is all fixable. For the time being duct tape and Dirko grey sealant has got the van water tight. It's not pretty, but it is dry. 😂 Hope you get yours sorted and that my vid helped you diagnosed the leak. Without seeing that second dribble of water with the borescope I never would have looked behind the rubber weather strip. Cost me £100, and even if I never use it again, it was money well spent. All the best Marc
@T4TipsGuides Marc that's correct mate that's exactly what's happened to mine on the drivers side the the lip for the door seal has gone with the wind 😅 I have now sealed in the locations you mentioned with heavy silcone sealant I'll add a video soon go the channel to shoe a temp solution just got to wait to see what happens after the rain I agree with what your saying these vans are classics in the making I've had her about 3 years now great vans same problem with the water travelling down the van destroyed my wood hopefully fix it temp for now and get some seal sealer on her soon and repaint cheers dave
Great video. I am looking to convert my T4 from barn doors to a tailgate. I have read that the lock barrels are different. Do you think, by using your process, the wafers could be swapped over from the barn door barrel to a tailgate barrel in order for it to use the same key? Cheers
Yes. I believe the front doors, side sliding doors, and barn doors use the same barrel. The up and over door or tailgate you wish to fit uses a slightly longer barrel. They contain the same amount of wafers/tumblers.
5:08 Brass spacer rings are used to set the correct tension. To add tension, remove spacers from the centre between the two pulley halves. If your belt has been adjusted previously due to wear (spacers are removed), you will need to add some spacers until the correct tension is achieved. It may be that you simply need to change the belt and not change the amount of spacers. Unused spacers are stored on the outside of the outer pulley.
Very helpful, much appreciated. On reassembly, the connector rod for the inside handle can be reconnected to the lock assembly easily once you realise you can see where it connects through the hole where the outer handle fits.
Thanks for watching. I am back using a Contitech belt for the power steering. I found certain compounds can be noisy. Also, not all makes are exactly the same design, and they can sit slightly differently within the pulley. Here is the belt that is on the van at the moment. "ContiTech V-Belt, Vee Belt, Auxiliary, Drive - Pt No: AVX10X650 - OE Quality" That is the search term on eBay U.K. The belt size is 10x650. That is for the ABL engine code. It may not be the same for other models.
I have the same problem on a MANN Filter from auto-doc. Fuel filter like your for my audi. After that bought the UFI filter, the same as OEM and fit's perfectly.
Interesting. Since I made the video, I have also had the exact same issue with a Master-Sport MS (German company) fuel filter from AutoDoc. I managed to get the R clip in eventually, but it took an immense amount of force. It wasn't fitted to the van. I have been purchasing certain items from different manufacturers simply for test purposes. I have also had issues with Kamoka (Polish company) parts from AutoDoc. I'll maybe cover that in a future video. I have the footage already. I just need to edit it.
After almost 7 years, the aerial was still working, but I decided to completely remove it as it was allowing water to dribble through the mast and into the area where the fuel filter sits. I have also switched over to a DAB headunit so no longer require an FM aerial.
It is possible to have a leak, assume it is the windscreen frame, have the windscreen replaced, and still have a leak due to a crack behind the rubber gutter on the door frame.
I originally saw it being done in this video a few years ago. I have been doing it ever since. I fill the fuel filter with a 500ml tin of Liqui Moly diesel purge. Start watching from around the 3 minute mark. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fyQRlG6Ggv8.htmlsi=cWTDZf61k5qFG65b
@mikeware4988 I'm glad to hear it. I change the fuel filter every 12 months and always fill with injector cleaner. Last 5 years I have only been doing 2,500 - 3000 miles a year. I find the van chuggs a lot less, especially when changing down, much smoother. I have seen other videos where they bypass the fuel filter and rig up a bottle to run the engine on injector cleaner with the return flow also going into a modified plastic bottle. I considered this option, but it looked like a right old faff. It allows the engine to run on pure injector cleaner. Filling the fuel filter is a lot easier and less messy. It will start mixing diesel in straight away, but in my opinion it still lets the engine run on a high concentration of injector cleaner for a good 10-15 minutes. I also run my van on Shell V Power diesel 95% of the time.
@user-sf7kl9uh7k Fake, poor quality, it is hard to tell these days. There is so much stuff that used to be decent quality, which is now crap. I'm buying most parts from CarParts4Less these days which is actually EuroCarParts. Easier to pop into a local branch and complain if there is an issue. eBay is full of scammers. AutoDoc sell a lot of poor quality products.
@@T4TipsGuides Yes, same. Although I do find some things are good value on AD. Delphi, Moog, Lucas, QH, amongst others have changed ownership, the quality of much of their products seems to have declined. I don't rate Dayco either, although Gates, INA, Lemforder and TRW seems mostly ok. It's a bloody minefield.
@@user-sf7kl9uh7k Stick to known brands on AD. There are some bargains to be had. I just bought a set of Metzger wiper arms for the van, and I ended up getting them for £14 each. I always check my order immediately after placing to check for swapped parts. It has happened twice so far. Ordered a certain brand only to find out it had been swapped for the Stark equivalent. As I understand, Stark is AD's own brand. When I checked, the parts I've ordered were still showing as in stock. I contacted customer service and asked why this was done. They switched it back straight away. No explanation. This is something they do. It is underhanded. They bump up the price of the Stark items, so when questioned, they can say that the part you received has a higher value. Also, the discount they offer is rigged. 25%, 35%, 41%. The prices are not always the cheapest when the discount showing is the largest, say 41% or 45%. Prices also change within the countdown time until the offer expires. I always keep a list of the lowest prices I have seen for an item and try to buy within 5%, plus or minus. The worst thing they do is change the price during checkout, prices can change while things are in your basket, but I watched the price change on the final screen during checkout out when I was about to pay. Is that a glitch? Designed in? Some kind of dynamic reactive pricing based on real-time sales? Whatever it is, there is no way the price should be changing on the final page of checkout.
@@T4TipsGuides I nearly fell for that substitution cxxp last time I ordered, but managed to get it dealt with when I complained the original part was suddenly available. They're a bit dodgy that's for sure, and virtually impossible to get a refund out of if something isn't fit for purpose. However, they're very good on price when it comes to things like VDO, Bosch, MAF's or other sensors. Plus running a 20 year old car, they're often the only place that is still supplying some parts. You just have to be on your toes a bit with them. A Husky is a nice thing to have, but you wouldn't leave one with a baby sort of thing. Yeah you need a good memory to get the best deals, their pricing and offers are a bit BS
Oddly I had a leak in my van checked quickly today, no odour but could be fuel filter 🙈 it’s going onto a pit to take a closer look this wknd hoping it’s an easy / relatively cheap fix. Plus my brakes are feeling a little hard so needs a proper once over 🤞🏻 nothing too serious
I had a pit years ago before I owned my T4. I would love access to one now. I've replaced the full exhaust system twice since I bought the van, and I had to do it at the side of the road. It wasn't fun.
@@T4TipsGuidesoh gosh! Makes it 10 x harder I bet. I’m lucky dad has a pit but my mechanic will put it up on his ramp to investigate further. It is a bonus to have all the access to pits, very lucky my end.
The clue was in the video - bought on special from E-Bay seller - the seller's source was probably from a rejected shipment of Febi stuff the Chinese buggered up.
I'll agree that eBay is awash with counterfeit goods. This particular seller has a positive feedback score of 99.7% and over 650k ratings. I have long wondered if the U.K. is a dumping ground for products that failed Q.C. in other countries.
@@T4TipsGuides They dump it wherever they can. They will protect their rating diligently, too - refunds are usually quickly processed and they don't want the junk back because it costs them postage. Try leaving a negative feedback - they will pester you forever with bribes trying to get you to remove it. They have zero qualms about false advertising in their listings. They call every fake genuine.
Are you sure that this is orginal fuel Filter from Febi? When I get the chance, I'll ask my dealer if there were any problems or complaints in the past. Greetings from Germany!!
Hi, I can only assume a reputable motor factor would sell genuine parts. This filter appears to be slightly different from the Febi filter I featured in a video 9 years ago. It is possible that the manufacturing process has changed over the years. The quality does not appear to be as good as the Febi fuel filters I have purchased in the past. I am hoping that any of my viewers who may have experienced this issue will comment here. Any feedback you can get from Febi would be greatly appreciated.
