Please do not announce what you are going to do. Nothing is more boring than explanations while nothing is going on. Just do what you have to do and explain as you go along. Also avoid describing what is clearly visible. It serves no purpose and it sounds silly.
Mine won't grab the glue stick.wondering if it needs repair or in using the wrong size stick's. Anyone have the same issue.ps no leaks it just won't grab the stick
For the wood case, I lightly sanded the wood case (320 Grit) and wiped it with mineral spirits. For the finish, Tung Oil (Minwax). Works very well........
It would be good if you made a video in several parts to understand what you are doing and to learn from your mistakes.In fast motion your work is not well appreciated and what you are talking about is not understood, so it would be good if you had a video in separate parts.thanks
I can't even tell you how much I appreciate your time and video. I just bought this sander been using it for 3 weeks and it just stopped. I've been wa8ting for 3 days for my husband to look at it. Thanks to you I DID IT MYSELF. I can get back to work now. Thank you so much
I vaguely remember my mum having that model of clock when I was a kid.... a very long time ago and I don't know what happened to it.... But thank you for this nostalgic trip. 🙏
The white is for softer metals and the brown is a little more aggressive for deeper scratches. If memory serves me correctly . If you buy a kit it gives you a break down of what each one is geared toward. Cheers 🍻
@@mjlrestorationshop.2405 Thanks. I found some at Harbor Freight today, seem to use a little different coloring scheme, brown was for brass/softer metals, etc, and green was for mirror polish on brass/softer metals. White at HF stated "to prevent scratches on aluminum or plastics" or something. Not sure if thats the same as what you had. I got the brown and green. Hopefully those work for me.
this tool has a specific watchmaking use, I didnt see any reference to the restoration of the functioning parts of this tool, a nice varnished box and shiny components are very nice but if the tool isn't functional then whats the point ?
Hi I’ve just come across your well put together video of your restoration. I am currently trying to get hold of a new pendulum spring or full mechanism as the one I’m working on is broken. I am in Australia and since it’s an American clock am having difficulty getting one in Australia. Can you help please!
I just picked up the same clock at Goodwill for $7.50. The only thing is, there is no winding key with it. Do you know where I can pick up a key, or is there something else I can use to wind it? There was also no booklet or whatever that was that was attached to the back door. Do you know where I can find one of those?
You'll need a size 6 key that can be found online for about $10.00. The label on the inside of the door has directions and I'll see if I can read the label on the Sessions "Berkeley" model I'm working on. Lots of info to be found online. Don't mess with the springs till you research how to "let down" the pressure and use mainspring clamps to secure the springs. I'm at the beginning of the process but I do know the springs have power that needs control.
Hello.. I don't check my messages every day so sorry for the late response. I can confirm that it is a size 6 key. I have four clocks from the same era, and they are all keyed alike. Best of luck with it😁 these are a well-built clock. Cheers
You can certainly sand it if it doesn't work perfectly, but the piece that I laminated on the top of the clamp that slides up and down is definitely a hair thicker then the bar. If you're in the process of making them let me know how they turn out.👍 Cheers
I don't have a table saw, so I have to purchase pre-thicknessed wood, i.e., 1/2" I made six clamps with just hand tools (coping saw) in 1982 from plans by Irving Sloane in his book, Steel String Guitar Construction. Thank you for sharing your video. @@mjlrestorationshop.2405
Gracias Todas las piezas que corté tienen media pulgada de grosor, excepto las piezas en el centro de la pieza que se deslizan hacia arriba y hacia abajo. Las piezas en la parte superior de la abrazadera deben hacerse un poco más gruesas para permitir que se deslice hacia arriba y hacia abajo por la barra de la abrazadera. Saludos
How do you remove the ring gear from the head? I have a 6142-31 with a bad power head radial bearing, but I can't figure out how to remove the ring gear and spindle
Thank you for saving me 100’s $$$ where might I find the motor? or …..if my bearings are going is that the same as motor going more or less? I could google for the answer but wanted to ask you?
My beater bar and bearings are going after 25 years what a rip off…..kidding I challenge anyone to show me a vacuum that has not had a one issue in 25 years. It is the best investment I’ve ever maid pun intended.
Thanks for saving me time and trying to find out the size of glue stick for my old kind that I just pulled out of the shed. It's all dusty and spider web covered but I'm going to use it
