In this video I had the same setup on both bikes. 2.5 DHF (front) and 2.5 Aggressor (rear) Both are Maxxis For trails I run 21 psi in the front and 23 in the rear. I just swapped the rear on the rallye for a 2.4 maxxis dissector so we’ll see how that goes.
I’m running similar setups(but 2.6’s) on my Rootdown and Middlechild. Typically run 15-17 up front and 20-23 out back depending on how chunky I think the trail will be. Going to2.5’s on the RD just to change things up… slightly 🤓
I've had this rack for 8 years. Several parts wear out and 1up says they are normal wear and tear. Lifetime warranty isn't really useful if it doesn't cover the primary metal parts. Expect to shell out $100s every few years to maintenance. Ease of use this is very versatile and great to get bikes on/off. Don't try to lower it or get into the back of truck when the bikes are on. Not sure I'd buy again. Not sure I've seen a better option.
These would work really well on a mullet, where wheel sway is most detrimental at the rear tire, but if the rim is shorter, then it won't flex as much to the side. I would use steel rims with these if I could find them.
In your experience, is this rack a good fit for electric bikes with fenders? My rear fender is pretty long and I think I will have a hard time locking in to the actual tire and I hate to lock into the fender as I feel this will only cause a problem in the future. What do you think?
I unfortunately do not have an electric bike with fenders. The compatibility depends a a handful of factors. However I have been told that 1up does offer a padded attachment for the rack arms for this specific scenario
Meh. Not really. The handle is pretty easy to reach without the quick release extension with only 2 bikes. Since I switch the configuration somewhat frequently between 2,3, and 4 bikes I’d rather not deal with the extra steps. However I suppose if your rack will always be configured for two bikes it could be worth it for ease of use.
Totally get keeping both. Just added a Ragley mmmbop in singlespeed for park use to my Cube reaction tm mullet trail distance build. Next to my old full sus XC Giant NRS3 and two cruiser bikes, one of which I welded together myself ^_^ Addiction is a thing.
Equip’d rack= 50lbs weight capacity per tray Super Duty- 75lbs per tray. Equip’d is not off-road rated either. Just “gravel” rated. So I don’t know what part of that rack could be considered stronger than the super duty… What part of the equip’d rack is wider and what’s the benefit of that?
I was hard to tell through the music, but is it me or did the berd spokes make less high frequency noise? (Less twang?). I think I heard the biggest difference in the chattery turns.
I haven’t tried it yet but I should. Part of the reason is I haven’t had the desire to make the bike any more slack than it already is.. but for the sake of science I should probably give it a go. Check back in with me in a few weeks and I’ll have an answer for you. 👍🏼
Thank you man! Another random question since you know a lot about the subject: I bought a Santa Cruz Chameleon 8 Mx a long time ago and I was wondering if I could be able to set it up as a full 27.5, but I’m not sure which size fork (I was thinking Fox Factory) I will have to run with it without damaging the gio of the bike. I know Santa Cruz recommend 29er or Mx but I’m 99% I could convert it to a full 27.5. I just love jumping around on the trail, and honestly didn’t like the mullet as much here in Miami, FL (There is nothing super deep). Thanks again for your videos and comments. I just find out of your channel, great content. You got a new subscriber!
I’m also in between going full 29er with the SC Chameleon or go full 27.5, it just be easier because I have the correct fork. I will just need the dropouts for the 29er but I just don’t know if I’m going to be able to jump around on my trails and have fun
@@DanielRodriguez-jz1id hey Daniel. I’m not sure about your question regarding fork travel/full 27.5. Personally I would probably try to get a 27.5 fork that matches the travel of the 29” but have the ability to add 10mm of travel if you feel like you want the stance to have more stack. Also, personally, I’d be more likely to go full 29” in Florida where the trails are flatter. I feel like I’d enjoy maintaining more speed. However if you are jumping and jibbing more often the full 27.5 may suit you better. Hope that helps.
Great review! I have a question though, as I'm about to hit the "place order" button. I saw a video that shows two bikes on this rack in motion behind a vehicle. they are swaying dramatically forward and aft, almost if not actually hitting each other, and the vehicle appeared to be on a paved road. Really concerns me. I see in your video the one bike behind your jeep seems solid, but upon closer inspection it does look like the handlebars are exhibiting this fore and aft movement. Any experience with this rack and two bikes mounted? Any solutions you know of to remedy this?
Hey Mark. I’ve driven the rack distances with 2,3, and 4 bikes on the back and never had issues with bikes hitting eachother… aside from pedal rub.. One thing you have to consider when mounting bikes on it is clearance between one bike’s handlebar and the next bike’s seat/seatpost. This is easily remedied by offsetting the bikes to either side of the rack further or closer depending on the situation. Or by simply dropping the height of the seats. There will always be wobble forward and back on the bikes because they are fixed to the rack by the tires which obviously have flexibility unless air’d up to very high psi (too high for MTB’s) and I don’t consider this movement to be a problem at all.
As another deterrent from theft and to completely resolve the pedal rub issue, I typically remove the pedals before driving too far with multiple bikes on board.
I can't recall the name but my collapseable mountain bike has collapseable peddles ( purchased seperately) which you can push in to disengage and collapse and you pull them up from the collapsed position to reengage to the riding position. Perhaps a google search or an amazon search will reveal them.
I like the thought of collapsible pedals for a casual bike like a beach cruiser, etc. but on a mountain bike that I’m trusting to go 30+ mph on dirt trails and 30’ jumps I think it’s wise to stick with pedals designed for hard mountain biking.
Your video answered my question about wobbling using the hitch extension. I also have a Jeep Wrangler and so will need it. Where do I pick up the anti wobble device you showed? I haven't ordered a 1UP USA carrier yet, (it's in the shopping cart), but now you raised a concern about the black anodized aluminum fading. I should just click on the "Buy Now" button and get it over with. 😂
Haha. The purchase is inevitable isn’t it. 😂 I got the hitch tensioner from Amazon. The black anodizing will definitely fade over time. But my silver one has been living on the back of cars for the last 3+ years and it’s doing great.
@@nicolehill5348 the difference between slack/high and slack/low is pretty crazy. You should try it just for science. Slack low feels like the bike is glued to the ground
Nice video, thanks. What I don't get about this rack is it holds the bikes WAY, WAY off the ground. I can see where this would be nice for someone off roading, but 95% of the time people are using this for regular streets. I think the bikes are so high I don't know if I can get them on or off. I know that it tilts, but even still this bike rack seems to have the bikes up higher than anything I've seen.
I don’t really see this as a problem. If you’re basing this concern on what it looks like on my jeep please keep in mind how high the back of the lifted wrangler is compared to a car. Yes, the rack height raises with each tray you add on but that is necessary when you consider the ground clearance needed for entering driveways etc. when the rack protrudes off the back of the vehicle as far as this one does. When only running one or two trays the bikes are basically just a little higher than the hitch receiver.
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