Hi! I'm Stuart de Haro and I started this channel with the intention of giving the tips of the trade I wish I had been given when I started out as a machinist. With that in mind, I'm going to focus on making videos with milling machine and lathe tips, basic machining instruction, and machining setup tips, with the occasional build video for handy tools. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Comparative analysis is always enlightening, and the titanic battle between crossfeed and compound as a threading method is informative and useful for hobby machinist dorks like myself. Dark Side of the Moon as a background prop works beautifully, too - Kudos, Stu!
I retired from a corporate research lab and a colleague did a similar test several decades ago. The best performer he found was lanolin. He gave me a spray can of it, I don’t recall the brand name anymore, but I sprayed my drill press column and other parts probably 20 years ago and they are still rust-free. It is tacky also like some of the others which is somewhat of a nuisance, but it is tenacious against rust. Not sure where to get the stuff though.
@:25 I was, but, I find it very hard to believe that Everyone was Kung Foo Fighting. Like I said, I was and while Kung foo fighting it's hard to keep op with everyone else, but I don't think they were. They were probably just standing around or doing the Robot, or something.
I'm not exactly young, but apparently young enough to never have encountered how to measure threads by hand. All I've seen are spec dies to test fit. Machinist skills never fail to impress.
Stuart - Nicely done as usual. I like and dislike the Shars Boring Head for the following reasons . The Boring Bars have a nice flat that insures the Tool Bit is located on center . The two piece threaded body makes me goosey . If I purchased one , I would lock the two body pieces togeather tightly . Then I would drill and pin them togeather . Now the Boring Head becomes safe and Bi-directional . -- Jim
I thought a Mill file was specifically for sharpening blades in saw mills...? (I have a lot of files. Several bastard ones. All of very fine origin (Sandvik, Öberg, Friedrich Dick, Nicholson (older ones), etc). Only 1 that's marked as a 'Mill' file (and is shaped in a way that makes sense for a large circular saw). It's also one of the hardest files I have. This one cuts almost every type of steel - even several types of hardened steel (including 440C stainless.. So like 60HRC)) Also have a chainsaw sharpening file - that cuts almost any steel too. So... I guess my question is: not every bastard file is a bastard Mill file, right...? - Also: any way to tell the hardness of a file? (Besides trial and error, I mean) Thx for your clear and concise videos btw.
There's a RU-vidr named Mustie1 that works on all kinds of cars, bikes, mechanical things in general. He lives up in New Hampshire I think, and he's been using a mix of chainsaw bar oil thinned a little with 10W. Considering where he lives, if I ever need to rustproof something, that's what I'm using.
The third and just as common method is where the depth is fed with the cross slide. Also on every pass the compound set parallel to the spindle is advanced by half the depth of cut. This keeps the pressure on the leading edge and reduces tool load. This method almost exactly reproduces the compound set at 29 degrees.
Is it rare to have a vernier scale on a metric micrometer? I picked up my first micrometer second hand and it’s metric with a vernier scale down to .001 mm.
No they're pretty common. At that scale, the heat of your hand or the temperature of the room will change the size of the part in a measurable way, so they're mainly used in very high accuracy and temperature controlled settings.
My old roommate and I once had insulation which was too thick to fit behind some drywall. With no money left for the project whatsoever, we did the only thing we could. The insulation was mashed behind the drywall and a screw was used every inch or so in order to hold everything in place without the insulation blowing the drywall clear off the wall. A contractor happened to come over before everything was patched or painted ( a process which took years). He wanted to know where we obtained a fully automatic drywall screw gun with a cyclitic rate of 1,200 screws per minute. In regard to the video at hand... Wow. That's a lot of work. You guys have made some great headway. I can't imagine how much beer and pizza you've gone through with all the friends coming over to help out. I can't wait for the rust inhibitor test and the deburring tools video. I've been doing some welding in my garage and upping my deburring game would be ideal. My fitup could use some work still.
Navin Johnson would be proud. You left the small garage for a bigger shop and you pushed all the machines together so it would be like the original lol! Seriously, that's a big improvement from the first video, going to be nice when its finished!
Your shop is looking good. I made simple scale models of all my big heavy machines. It makes setting up shop so much easier. Thanks for sharing your shop
I was wondering how long it would take for someone to bring that up. Not to worry. I'm planning on completely rewiring everything, but my well pump is in the shed and had to get rewired ASAP.
Funny thing is, I recorded several hours of footage of all the work and it was mostly useless for the video. Either you can't see what's happening or the camera is in the way and you can't do the work. There's also a lot of footage of my butt as I inevitably stand in front of the camera.
True, although it has been quite hot and humid here for the last week so I'm only getting maybe 6 hours out there before the heat stroke sets in. I've been going on for a bit every morning before work while it's still cool-ish and doing what I can.
Wow, no wonder we haven't seen you for a while, still the content would have garnered a few watchers I am sure , looking forward to see some packing in the future. Hang In there Stuart!
