This was a real cool video and told a good story! Wish you actually showed us how you ohmed out the sensor and the results. Good work and beautiful car!
Pretty SWEET build. I have an '88 325iX that would be even more fun with some added power. Keep the videos coming... and yes, some take it for a spin videos would be cool! Would be interested in more info on that GM wasted spark conversion too.
Hey there, I have a Getrag 265/6 with a broken input shaft. The smooth portion of the shaft that slides into the pilot bearing fractured cleanly. Is there a way to remove the input shaft (I'm guessing disassembly is similar to the G260)?
Fantastic video as I'm sizing up possibly rebuilding or at least replacing bearings in my G 260. Thanks for taking the time, the clear shots, and good narration.
Hello Thank you very much for your video and really precise explanations Sorry in advance if I ask you a question that you have already been answered I improve a lot in English but I understand it better written than heard I just reassembled my first engine entirely an M20B25 and did the break-in cam all well was but I heard a clack clack that took me a while (and almost a heart attack by telling me that I had done something wrong with the reassembly of the engine) before I found out it came from my getrag Pedal clutch pressed no clac clac pedal clutch released at neutral claclaclac I have a question for you My E30 is a 325i 2wd with a getrag 260 I saw you these a getrag 260 of a 4wd probably a 325xi is what the intern is exactly the same? Before reassembling it on my E30 I change all the seals of front and behind the transmission (input/ output shifter axis) if I disassemble the transmission must I change them again (they have turn 15 minutes as 2500 rpm at neutral transmission then 500m speed 1/2/3 2500/3000 rpm max for the break-in I haven’t driven the car yet to find out if there’s a problem with synchro There’s a way to know if synchro are changing once the transmission is open to make your tool with the pipe you use to push the primary axis you find the base or? And my last question there is better bearing than the originals to be on that the default does not return Thank you good day and thank you again
Hello, As far as I know all the internals are the same between 2wd and 4wd ix boxes. The only real difference is the case on the back for the transfer case to bolt to. I would change the seals any time you open the transmission. It’s just cheap insurance and the seals are that expensive. There is a measurement you can take using a feeler gauge to tell if the synchros are worn and should be replaced. I believe the specifications are in the Bentley manual. Not sure what you mean by the tool I made but it’s made entirely of cast iron pipe from my local hardware store. As far as the bearings go-the only source that I’ve found is through the dealer. They are a unique size.
I leave in Greece and at the summer it gets really hot, like 30-35 degrees Celsius. What oil should i use??? I found GL4 75W80 is the one. Any ideas??? Why does the tranny say ATF?
ATF was factory fill according to the labels of most of the getrags I’ve worked on. Shifting is easier with ATF in my climate (mild summers and cold the rest of the year). The gear oil you suggested would be better suited for your climate. Shifting might be difficult might be difficult in your climate with ATF along with more gear noise.
What if my selector shaft is broken is that a part I can source and change not on the inside the little black part on the outside and some of the inside of the shaft that sits outside will I be able to open it like how you did in this video and change that shaft I also can’t tell if it’s in neutral will that make the job impossible or it’s still doable
Awesome work!. Can you explain how you wired the wideband? Do you keep the factory o2 sensor? Is the wideband wired to the factory wire harness? Thanks in advanced
Hey man, great videos, quick question. For some reason my dowel pin on the rear of the crank is screwed up and stripped my bolts. Is it necessary or can i just leave that thing out? I bought all new flywheel bolts, and was planning on reusing one of the old bolts. Thanks again!
@@85garage You're right, I'm not sure what the deal is, the dowel is like bent slightly, I tried straightening it but it won't. I'll grind it out a bit to space it for the bolt. I swear this engine has been fighting me every which way, I wish I knew what the last owners did with this thing.
@@grandmaster1004is just the threads in the hole the dowel sits in stripped? It’s hard to say what to do in this situation because it’s not like you can unbolt that hub from the back of the crank and get it machined or something.
@@85garage the threads in the crank are fine, I removed the dowel and screwed in the bolt, but the bolt doesn’t fit through the dowel. I have the whole engine/trans/transfer case out from rebuilding the engine. Finally was putting the finishing touches to put the assembly together and this happened! Ha
@@85garage never mind, someone put the wrong dowel in the crank. It’s tapered, which is why nothing worked. I remember struggling to remove the bolt but this was over a year ago. Ughhh
Great video series, have subscribed....... Please can you advise on the problem with my Getrag 240 5 speed gearbox, before I strip it down, as per your video. I can select gears 12345 ok, but not reverse. I cannot move gear selector stick, out of the neutral position, i.e. it won't move far left then forward?
Most likely have an issue with the reverse lockout or idler in the rear of the case. Or even a slightly bent or damaged shift fork inside. Let me know what you find during teardown, it’ll probably be very easy to spot visually.
@@85garage Thank you for the informative reply. After more investigating, I have removed the reverse detent spring, which on my 240 model transmission, is located 150mm, left of the reversing light switch. It now slides into reverse, with very little effort. I can see inside the detent hole, a cam that lifts up when reverse is selected. This cam intern pushes against the detent follower and spring. No obvious damage to the cam or follower, so guess there is a problem deeper inside? Before doing a full teardown, I'm thinking of trying a lighter / thinner gauge, detent spring. UPDATE: I cut the revers gear detent spring length, down from 35mm to 30mm. Reverse gear can now be selected.
i've owned my 1933 Ford 325iX with a spankin' brand knew 3 speed emmanuel!!!!! The iX uses epik lulz and bowlz to create a wild minimal flavor that Spartan 117 can't stand! He would rather get a 10000 whp Chevy Kilonova with 4 mini jet engines on the back and deja vu has
@@ashboi909 I have, luckily I had a spare trans with known good synchros that I just put new bearings in. Yeah, the dealer synchros are super expensive. I haven’t found a source for aftermarket yet.
@@85garage can u maybe list the part numbers theres a fair amount of parts so it seams, over here on the uk i can buy a box for about £200 but the parts for bearings at either end are atleast £200
I have the same problem on my 2015 civic 1.6 diesel. It vibrates only when the engine is cold and only when releasing the clutch in the 1. Gear ? Did you figure out what the problem was ?
nice build, ive got a chance to pick up a 325ix here too but a bit worried about reliability of the awd platform... any issues with the transmission/transfercase so far?
Not really but I also don’t launch it or clutch dump it. Make sure to use the X5 guibo on the front diff to push the front driveshaft into the transfer case for more spline engagement.
2 ways-heat up the case around it with a heat gun and pry it out carefully with something like a trim tool or use a blind bearing puller/slide hammer. I’ll show it in the reassembly vid.
Thanks for the videos. I got a question for you, I bought a rebuild getrag 260 for my ‘86 325e but I didn’t know about the different bell housing between the early and the late models. My question is, can you interchange the bell housings? Thanks again!
Yes, but you may have to use a different throw out bearing depending on which part number is one the side of it. Last time I bolted an eta getrag with the 2 crank sensor holes to an “I” engine I used the same throw out bearing with no problem so I’m not sure which one you have. www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/transmission-driveline/73563-getrag-260-interchange-and-information-good-info Here’s a good resource of info
@@85garage Thank you so much for all the info. This is my first time dealing with mayor drivetrain components on any car. I dint notice the bell housings where different until I notice it wast going in all the way and it wouldn't clock properly because the starter was in the way... by the way, I put the old throw out bearing and fork to the rebuilt gearbox and it fit just fine.
When you where putting the rear case onto the gear train, why did you put the countershaft bearing into the race rather than sitting it on the end of the countershaft? That is what I did and am curious if this was an oversight
@@85garage awesome thank you! And thank you for this video! Just got it all back together last night thanks to you. Last step is to press the input shaft bearing
@@mapletree736Thanks for watching!Careful pressing the input shaft bearing in and rig up a tool like I did to some extent otherwise you’ll get bearing noise. Let me know if you have any issues pressing it in.
@@85garageSo I still haven't pressed it in because im scared 😂. When you pressed it in originally with the old bearing, did it not matter that you where only pressing the inner race? Did you just heat it up enough to not have any resistance one the outer race?
What might i be forgetting or doing wrong thats causing the rear housing to be stuck on. I re-created your tool and it just feels way to hard to turn and it doesn't look like its budging. All of the gears are engaged forward as far as i can tell. And ive followed the video pretty well. This is not an ix. Any advice is appreciated and thank you for making this masterpiece
Hi, great video mate can I ask you if there is a dowel where usually there is the loking pin and the spring ? Cause I opened 2 different getrag and 1 had the dowel and 1 was without Thank you
the getrag ford powershift box must be the worst made gearbox in the world, the only guarantee you get is it will break and you cant get parts to repair them
@@85garage Really appreciate the response! The ix I'm restoring has a bad VC (no surprise) and I'm not excited about hunting down a used one that might fail soon anyway, lol.
Hi! Great Video. Thank you for posting. I have a question about the breather valve. So an acquaintance had an ix and abandoned it after they couldn't replace a blown motor. The car given to me in 5 gallon buckets and boxes. It has sat since 2015. Needed some help replacing the wiring harness (previous owner cut it out to remove the engine). Finally got it to fire up and drive. Replaced all the fluid. Most the seals. Didnt touch the T Case. It's a manual. After a couple days T Case started leaking out the front drive shaft seal (old an tired probably). But the T case vent valve is leaking. Fluid was measured and replaced. Drained it again and triple checked fluid going in. Still leaking. Any ideas on what can cause this? Also, how hard is it to replace the breather valve. Been looking online with no info out there. Thank you for any suggestions and insight!
Servus, ich hätte eine Frage. Ich hab einen e34 525iX. Würde ihn auch gerne auf Turbo umbauen. Finde aber keinerlei Info über das Getriebe. Gibt es ein 6 Gang Getriebe mit Allrad? Das man umbauen kann? Oder kann man das 5 Gang Getriebe länger übersetzen und verstärken? Liebe Grüße aus Deutschland
Thank you for your video! I will do mine too! Can you share with me what kind of book do you have. What I found is barely readable... Thank you in advance!
You may have found out by yourself in the meantime (I am aware that this video was posted 11 months ago). But just in case you might be interested to know that Curil K2 is replaced by Curil T2. T2 comes with improved gap fill and is free of solvants (so says the manufacturer).
