Same issue. I replaced the VSS sensor and it worked off and on. Then I checked the connector and found that it was not fully seated and locked in. Sprayed the pins with carb cleaner and plugged it in and it worked fine thereafter.
For the 820 ohm resistor it doesn't matter and can be installed in either direction to bypass the ELD. For replacing the capacitors inside the Engine computer if you ever need to they have a stripe on one side which indicates the negative side which you install pointing to the white stripe on the board.
Hardest part is the removal hence why I did this video specifically. Installation is doing the same steps in reverse. I got rushed to install this transmission into the other car so I wasn't able to record it. The main things to pay attention to during installation is when you put your torque converter back in the transmission spin it until it clunks all the way in. You can use a jack under the transmission to support and help line up the transmission to the engine. When I rebuilt the engine from this white Civic I'll try and do an install video but that's going to be quite a while.
Yes. The 6th picture on this page highlights where the screws are: honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/diy-eg-dash-trim-piece-removal-replacement-2650407/ there's 9 screws that hold it from the backside. That page has highlights showing locations of the screws. I think you can get to these with a stubby phillips head screwdriver.
Mine started to miss on cold start for a couple seconds code 9 came up. Dizzy was already new yr ago so I just warranty it out. Week later same issue code 9 at first crank. I was thinking ecu now Ima definitely order 1
Makes sense. I'd also check and clean the wiring harness connectors that go to the distributor just in case if you haven't already. With our Hondas aging I started ordering replacement capacitors off of mouser's site and have been replacing the capacitors in the computers for peace of mind. Simple to do with a cheap Ebay adjustable soldering iron, flux, a bottle of rubbing alcohol, qtips, and some solder. Any used computer I would absolutely do this to. The Transmission computers for the Accords on the other hand are a bit thicker than the engine computers and I'm doing some tests to relocate the capacitors to a daughter board. I'll post my results soon.
those that dash overlay go underneath the plastic on the speedo or does it go over it ? was going to get a carbon fiber one but i don’t want to take the speedometer out because i don’t want to break my 30 year old plastic. but sick vid
You push some clips and the clear plastic separates from the white backing plastic. The plastic I painted blue can be taken out without removing the gauges from the unit itsself.
Yes absolutely. That code would indicate a bad speed sensor on the top rear of the transmission. When you replace it make sure you get one that matches your transmission. (automatic or manual) A cheap Junkyard, Ebay, or Rockauto one will work.
That information is in this short's description. My video that this clip is from is on an Accord's F22. It was an F22B2 non vtec engine but I swapped out the head for a F22B1 vtec engine head and added the wiring and vtec ecu. All documented and filmed on my channel.
Let me ask you a question, I have a 95 coupe that has an air bag on the right hand side of the dashboard, above the glove box area and I also got 92 hatch which I thought of getting the dash of and put in the coupe, but I found is that the 92 hatch doesn’t have that airbag thing. Now my question is do you think it’ll fit well or will have problems with it there?
For B series vtec and non vtec models run limiters to equalize the pressure between the bottom end and the head. D and F series don't need them when going to a Vtec head due to the control orifaces being in the engine heads. B series on the other hand does not have a oil control oriface in the head so you keep the one in the block.
Very well explained video. I’m get started soon with my project removing the dash from 92 hatch and putting it in to my 95 coupe. This will help a lot. Thank you young lady..
Lift the front drivers side of the Accord and put it on a stand. Even better if you can lift both driver and passenger side front but you don't have to do both. Crawl up under the middle of the engine so you can look up and see in between the engine and firewall of the car. You can reach up and unplug the Oil pressure switch with your hand. To remove the oil pressure switch you can use the appropriate size socket and a ratchet. You may have an advantage using a flexhead ratchet for this. Using a 3 inch extension may help as well. If you put the socket onto it first you can reach up and put the ratchet or extension onto it. It helps if you do this when you do an oil and filter change that way the oil filter isn't in your way but it's not necessary. If you find that there's support brackets in your way you can remove them with a 12mm socket to get them out of your way. In a previous video I showed that the wiring harness plastic under the bottom could be removed with a 10mm socket if needed. It is very important that you do not overtighten this as it can strip or even crack the casting of the engine. The rtv gasket like I used in the video will help seal it so if you are doing it by hand when it gets snug you can stop.
Hi, thanks for showing this. My issue is my glove box is locked and the plastic latch is broken so I can’t open the glove box. I bought a new latch mechanism to replace it. How do I open the glove box through the broken latch so I can open the glove box and remove the mechanism?
That's a rough one.. I want to try and help you get it open with out risk of damaging the glovebox. Can you post a brief video or pictures of what's broken and what's left? Depending on how it's broken you may be able to slide something through the broken latch or the crack in the top of the glove box door to fish it open.
@@foxisretrofitting4556 No prob. Thanks for the reply. I got it opened going underneath the broken latch using a mini flathead and was able to find and press the lock button and push it down to release. Worked! Thank God. Hopefully that helps anyone else. No vid tho lol
@@joeyjonz1 That's great news! I'm glad to hear you got it open. We may have to do some videos sometime on getting Civic and Accord glove boxes open if a part fails.
Hello bro, thank you for your efforts and hard working, i have accord 2002 and the vtec is not connected at all, and im suffering to know how can i connect it, any chance you teach me please, i’d be more than thankful!!
Thanks for reaching out! To be sure I get my information correct I have to ask a few things. Does your 2002 have a 4 cylinder like the one in this video or a v6? Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? Is it a US, European, or JDM model? What trim is it like DX, LX, EX? If it is a true 2002, with a 2.3 4 cylinder engine, US model, and it is using the factory ecu for a vtec model then this diagram is what you will be looking for: allpinouts.org/pinouts/connectors/car/1998-2002-honda-accord-ecu/ Backup diagram for if the first one goes offline: www.innovatemotorsports.com/wp/content/uploads/2022/05/Honda-Accord-1998-2002.pdf ECU Connector B: pin12 is for the vtec solenoid valve and ECU Connector C: Pin 10 is for the vtec pressure switch. The process of running the wiring is similar to the way I did in my 1994. I show the process here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1k8HDyyyF6k.html Keep in mind your ecu pins will be different than mine in the video (the pins listed above are correct for your application) and your ECU will most likely be located under the center of your dash below the radio. It is held in by 2 bolts and is accessible from the drivers side. I look forward to your reply and will do my best to help get everything wired up.
This page nails it down: honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/diy-eg-dash-trim-piece-removal-replacement-2650407/ there's 9 screws that hold it from the backside. That page has highlights showing locations of the screws.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. With the music, yeahhhh... At the time it was better than the cartoons my wife was watching in the background coupled with me making silly noises as I worked on the switch 😆
It can take a couple tries to get the needle on in the correct spot. You have to line it up carefully and depending on your luck you may have to put the needle on with the ignition on and the back of the gauges hooked up. If you are using a different size tire or rims other than the stock steel ones it can have an effect too. This gauge in the video read correctly when I put it back in but now that we are running alloy rims on it it reads slightly higher. About 3-5 mph. Although I'd rather it read higher than lower and cause an unnecessary speeding ticket. I could correct that but I don't want to risk damaging anything since these are fragile and it doesn't really bother me so I just let it ride.
You can usually just swap the non vtec head for a vtec one and swap the engine computer out for a vtec one to be able to use. You may also have to add 2 wires to your computer harness depending on your region, one for the vtec solenoid and the other for the vtec pressure sensor. Some models like the Japanese market cars don't have a vtec pressure switch and just have a solenoid so then you only need to add one wire.
@@elisabethnavarro1739 Yes. The "Engine Control Module". In models like the automatic transmission 91-95 Accords there is 2 computers: One for the the engine "ECU" and one for the transmission "TCM" (transmission control module). In Civics of the same era they use 1 computer that controls both the engine and transmission. This is technically called a "PCM" (powertrain control module) but most of us just call it an ECU to make it simpler since there's only one computer in those cases. When they went from OBD1 computer generation to OBD2 in 1996 they changed Accords to having that single "PCM" to control both the engine and transmission in one unit.
That's awesome! Let me know if you need any wagon information. One thing that took me a couple years to find that I thought was neat is there's actually a labeled factory hitch wiring harness plug that is in the spare "trunk" area.
It's got it's pros and cons. The positive things it does is it will keep your throttle body and intake from getting nasty over time with oil vapors and will prevent carbon build up. If you like the look it does look pretty neat. If you are just driving to work and back or just around town it does just fine with the little breather equipped. The negatives are you do have to clean around it time to time due to the vapor build up on the valve cover. If you drive highways or in high rpm ranges depending on your mileage and amount of blowby it will STINK. I wound up reconnecting my valve cover to my intake air cleaner because for a while I was highway driving and it was very noticeable. Observing actual performance of the Accord during use it doesn't seem to change performance at all either way you prefer. Doesn't hurt to give it try and see how you like it though. I converted my 1979 Chevy Van over to a valve cover breather years back and it was about the same experience except I didn't get as much stink from the breather due to how air circulates around the body. I feel like exactly where the breather is on the Accord and my mileage is why it can get stinky. I haven't had that same experience on Civics though. I haven't had a Civic stink from one yet. Makes sense since the civics' ports are facing straight back toward the firewall where the Accord is facing straight up.
Thank you for watching! I'm glad that I was able to help give you a visual. I figured the best way to show it on camera was from above. In another video I show it from below but it just doesn't really come through as well.
Absolutely, you can absolutely remove it without touching the EGR valve. There's a video on my channel called "Accord Wagon Removing the Intake & Exhaust Prep for New Engine Head" where I show the process for removal if you need a walk through.
@@foxisretrofitting4556 Thanks I appreciate it. I got it off but I realized I had to remove the water pipe as well which I didn’t know. It was the EGR bolts giving me a hard time. I went thru 3 adapters trying to take it off. Everything else came off easily all the Manifold bolts and underneath Harness too I didn’t have any special extension tools tho all regular basic Wrenches and ratchet
@@DTunedF22 I feel that. That EGR is tightly placed. If you ever have any doubts or need to look back for reference I have the whole top end and coolant system tear down and reassembly on the channel in parts. If there's something you don't remember or I don't show don't hesitate to ask and I'll upload a video or picture for your to reference.
You can change most of the lights from the back. I assume you're talking about the block behind the fuel level and temp gauge side? I unfortunately don't have one in front of me right the second to be accurate but if it does come off it will be with little cast plastic clips around its parameter and possibly with a screw. If not then you may have to take that gauge out.
You are mostly correct. We only had a non vtec ecu and a non vtec head at home when I had to get my wife's car going that way she could go to work. The factory Z6 head that came with the car the previous owner was an idiot who cranked down on it with an impact and cracked the hell out of the rocker assembly and ruined alot of the head.
Question I have 1992 eg hatch and I'm try to swap a d16y7 into it do I use the the original ecu from the 1992 or the 1996 and the same for the engine harness
You can use the harness and ecu from the stock 1992. Ignore the crankshaft position sensor that comes on the D16Y7 it can be ignored. You'll have to deal with the distributor situation since the wiring will be different and your '92 used the distributor for crank position instead of the D16y7 that used a sensor on the front of the oil pump. There's several ways to deal with that. For example you can gut the obd2 distributor and put the insides from the '92 Obd1 distributor inside it or you can use a different obd1 distributor like I did with the one I used in this video. To keep things simple depending on what your '92's original engine is you could keep your stock intake manifold with everything on it so you don't have to convert or modify any wiring for your Idle air control valve or intake air temp sensor. If it's an automatic You will absolutely want to use the transmission and throttle body / throttle brackets from your '92 because '92-95 used a cable operated system instead of electronic like the transmission that came bolted to that D16Y7 in '96-2000. Make sure to match your fuel injectors. You'll want the flowrate that matches as close as possible to the d16y7 (180cc) but obd1 to fit your factory harness and ecu. We used D15B8 injectors to match our D16Y7 head in this video. The TLDR: Ultimately your build will hook up and be done the exact same way we did with this car. Ignoring things on the D16y7 block like the crank position sensor and knock sensor (if it has one some Y7's actually did). Most things will depend on which intake you will be using. Things are simpler if you use your '92 intake manifold. If automatic use the '92 transmission because it's cable operated. Let me know if you need any more help or have more questions :)
So literal improvements comparing what the difference was if everything was brand new from the factory in 1994 using specs for the F22B1 & B2 from wikipedia and other sources it would technically add: 15hp (200 rpm to peak production) , 8ft lbs of torque, and fuel economy will be slightly better. Mpg has been rumored to go up 8mpg and I would believe that because my mileage did get better afterwards. Realistically this translates in real life numbers: +12.35hp at the crank, +10.49 hp at the wheels, and only a .55 second off your quarter mile. Enough to feel it. For me I really know my car so I noticed the differences right away. These differences were: 1. when you put it gear instead of having to give it some gas to move it moves on its own similar to my old chevy. 2. Immediately more torquey, when you tap the gas you get alot more response. Red lights with heavy traffic in a wagon aren't a bother with it. 3. With the F22B2 head it took a good bit to make it spin a tire and then it was only the shorter cv shaft. The F22B1 head I can stab the gas from a stop and spin both tires launching. 3. The transmission seems to shift smoother after install. 4. There's a difference in the sound. F22B1 is a little deeper and really has growl over the B2. Vital side notes which can be seen from other videos I've made on the wagon: I kept the LX distributor with the large dedicated ignition coil to make things simpler but also it just seemed to make sense seeing people upgrade Civics to dedicated blaster coils as well as older chevys build for the drags if they are just running HEI. You have to use sparkplug wires that are for vtec models to fit the B1 head. CONS/CONTRASTS: With the F22b2 head you have a valve cover gasket, sparkplug tube grommets, and those orings under the rocker assembly that if they leak it dumps oil on the sparkplugs. With the F22B1 head it doesn't have those orings under the rocker assembly to worry about but you do have to make sure your valve cover isn't warped or it will never seal right and it has the vtec solenoid so it's another spot that could leak later if not maintained correctly. Bottom line: I did all of this for about $125 total including cleaners, parts, etc. Then include my labor. For a wagon I see this as an absolute win and you really notice alot of positives in this heavier model especially the torque, ease of highway usage, and mpg increase. The potential in this engine head could really stand out with a better intake manifold like F23A1 but I didn't have the change to grab one up while I was parts gathering and there's some extra modification to the IACV that would have to be done to make it work.
My 97 lx blew a headgasker, pulled the head and took it to a shop, they pressure tested it and it was no good, someone trying to fix a broken exhasut stud drilled into the head and straight into a water jacket, I found a head for f22b1, how hard is it to swap a b1 on a b2 block, can I keep my stock ecu and distributor and just take out the thing that regulates oil pressure and swap them or do i need a new ecu etc
It's a direct swap, same gaskets, and same bolts. You can keep your intake, exhaust, and distributor as well. It would be best to get the correct ecu though. If you do have to go this route without a correct ecu you can run with the non vtec ecu but you'll want to keep from revving it higher than you would with a normal non vtec head. If you get higher up in rpm past what the non vtec normally did it'll start making some nasty noises and misfiring due to different ranges and mappings between ecus. I did this for a while and just shifted my automatic manually and went easy on my engine until I could get an ecu. If you need a guide on all of this every step I have documented on my channel. I even refurbished the vtec engine head at home. If you need any more information, help, or a video on something just let me know and I'll be more than happy to help!
@@foxisretrofitting4556 Really appreciate you responding to me so soon, speaking of a vtec ecu, how hard would be to come by and would you know how much one would cost.
@@razly1695 Right now the prices are high. On Ebay the vtec EX automatic transmission model ones (37820-P0A-A51) are going for around $200 USD. On Rock Auto they have remanufactured ones for $318 USD after core. Your best bet would be to find one at a junkyard for under $100 USD and "refurbish it" by soldering new capacitors into it. Where I am if you can catch an Accord in the junkyard you can obtain an ecu for around $35-40 USD. Eventually I want to try and figure out if I can convert non vtec LX ecus into vtec ecus. A planned video for soon is showing how to replace all the capacitors in an Accord ecu and where to get the capacitors for cheap.
No problem! We wanted to make these videos because we couldn't find any vids showing airbag information on EX models like ours. It was usually DX models with only a drivers airbag.
This is a very good question. I only say borrowed time for my situation. The fluid lines are open and the differential gear where the cv axles are inserted are wide open to the elements. With the torque converter off the shaft and seal are exposed as well. Flying bugs, water/moisture, dust, dirt, and other things can easily get into these places and contaminate the transmission. This is more of an issue where I am due to silt roads, neighbors mowing and kicking up dust constantly, and generally doing things on the dirt ground. If you've got somewhere to actually store the transmission (even an empty car trunk will do) you can install the bottom cv axle cups, loop the fluid lines with a hose, and put the torque converter back on the shaft to keep it sealed and safe. If you are working in a garage or shop you really don't have anything to worry about unless you have a dirt dobber issue.
To be sure I get my information correct I have to ask a few things. What's the model numbers on the ECU you are wanting to use? What region is the ECU and Harness from? North American, JDM/asian markets, or European? Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? What year Accord are you working with?
@@foxisretrofitting4556this video is almost exactly what I’m looking for, I have a 97 accord it has an f22b1 5spd North American and the ecu is a 37820-p0j-L11 874-321143 on the side And on the back it says JL1 and 874 I need to know what pin out is for the vtec solenoid and the pressure switch. I’ve looked high and low through the old forms and I can find anything on it. Please help me
@@afroman5531 Your ecu is gonna be an OBD2 model. On connector "A" which is a 32 pin connector the Vtec solenoid wire is position #8 a Green/Yellow wire when installed from factory. Connector "C" which is a 31 pin connector position #15 will be your Vtec pressure switch which is a blue/black wire when factory installed. Here's what you'll be looking at to help visually: allpinouts.org/pinouts/connectors/car/1996-1997-honda-accord-ecu/ You can ignore the "B" Connector in the diagram since that is used for automatics and yours is a 5 speed manual. Let me know how it goes and don't hesitate to ask questions. 😀
@@foxisretrofitting4556 dude thank you so much I’ve been trying to hunt down this info for a while and it’s been mind numbing to a point lol I’ll definitely take a closer look at the ecu. When I was checking out the numbers on the side of the case it seemed to correspond with the non vtec ecu. Have you heard of that being an issue at all? Also I enjoy your vids man keep up the work it’s genuinely appreciated n content we are all about💪🏽
@@afroman5531 That does appear to be a f22b2 non vtec ecu. Could be possible that someone swapped computers out at one point to get by and that's all that could be found at the time. For 1997 Accord EX with 5 speed manual and F22B1 Vtec engine a 37820-P0H-L02 ecu is what you want to be dead on. A 37820-P0H-L01 would also work because it is from a 1996 Honda Accord EX with 5 speed manual and F22B1 Vtec engine. The last digit of the model being just a revision number, you can use either of those ecus you can get ahold of. I'll look back at my notes tonight and see if there's other alternatives I've forgotten as well. These ecus are obtainable on Ebay and could possibly be found at junkyards.
