Thanks for stopping by and having a look. Glad I could give you some ideas, and I like what you are doing on your channel.

Yes, the 'without having to move things out of the way' part you are trying to do can definitely be a hard ask if you don't have much space to work with.

I'm not finding search results on that term. Do you have a better description / tool name / a brand that makes this? That, or an Amazon 'ASIN' number?

Thanks for stopping by, it is appreciated. I'm close to the point I'll want to post another update, but 'close' for me... well, we'll see when it happens.

BEFORE REMOVAL: to save a ton of frustration, TIE A CORD TO THE OLD CABLE ON THE END AT YOUR SEAT so you can use that cord / rope / whatever to guide and pull the new one through. Look at 2 minutes and 5 seconds. Unscrew the nut holding the existing cable to the bottom of the driver seat. Look over the cable under the van and unbolt / unscrew the 2 or 3 connectors holding the cable to the bottom of the van. Unscrew the nut holding the other end of the cable (close to the pivot point at the middle of the van underside). At that point the cable is fully detached and you can pull it out. Make sure to NOT allow the pull rope you tied off to fall through, you want that threaded through the entrance into the van interior. After that, tie the end of your new cable to the pull line you used, wrap it in electrical tape to give it a smooth taper and eliminate things that could catch on stuff you can't see, then pull the new cable through that gland and into the van next to the driver seat. After that, repeat everything else in reverse.

Edit: Ah, I'm guessing you found the part of the video where I mention the light model. Yeah, it's a low-cost item that really gives you an impressive improvement in imaging results. It's the iFixes iL37, dozens of sellers on AliExpress sell it. While I'm sure there are options that are qualitatively better for providing adjustable polarized light (I will note that what I have allows some 'spillover' by not perfectly blocking all the LED output and making sure everything goes through the polarizing filter), it is *for sure* the current best bang for your buck. You can get it for around the $22 range while other options are over $100. Given the tech is just an LED ring light and 2 polarized light filters, the other options that are priced at over $100 are just inexcusable in my opinion.

@@neverendingstudent Ya I just purchased one on ALI. I found one for $18.90 with a coupon. Ya I agree 100$ for a polarizer is a bit steep. Thanks again for the video !

@@shiftctrlhack Very welcome!

@@neverendingstudent I just noticed your UI is slightly different than mine. They must have a firmware update after I purchased mine. I do not have the " Framerate " I'm going to message them and see. I noticed my auto exposure is really bright / strong when I zoom in or out on some boards. My camera does get warm to the touch like Sorins too. My brightness defaults to 46 too.

@@shiftctrlhack For mine, I found that when you do stuff that weirds-out the brightness, just clicking on the slide-bar for brightness and doing any adjustment, even if you end up back at the original number, fixes it - at least on my firmware version. As for the framerate: I mentioned in my review (the review I posted on AliExpress) that I was running mine at 30FPS and maybe they removed the option to 'idiot-proof' the firmware to prevent the perception that it wasn't running at 60FPS. What firmware version do you have? Mine lists as 'YW5109_3.0'.

The USB cable I have in there is a high-temp tolerant silicone USB-C cable which is from the Pine store and specifically meant to be used with the Pinecil (so that if you accidentally touch it, it won't melt). To be fair, I just checked and didn't find power ratings listed for the cable, but I know I have used it in the field and was able to solder easily, no issues with the iron getting up to temp quickly or keeping temperature up during soldering.

@@neverendingstudent I recognized the cable and it's good, yes. ...but it doesn't allow you to get the full power of your Pinecil and Anker power bank. It's just that it's a bit of a pity to opt for such an expensive power bank and not use its 140 W capability, since the Pinecil is able to take advantage of it.

@@NicksStuff I had to do some quick googling just now - either I hadn't known (or, more likely I forgot) the Pinecil can support power above the rated 88W. I may look into swapping that now, if I can find a cable that is also silicone-sheathed (I REALLY like the limp-noodle feel and how it doesn't push back at all when I want to set the iron down on my stand). Edit: found on Aliexpress, looks like Miniware makes a 1 meter silicone USB-C cable with EPR support for high-wattage, currently at ~$7. Nice.

@@neverendingstudent $7 only!? Can you share the link?

I found item 1005006738430684 but it's not in stock

Thank you! The bench has developed quite a bit since I made this Ver.1 video and it's getting close to time to do Ver.3. Probably after I finish 2 items: I'm working on sound-reduction for my fume extractor and I need to redo the connection to my main work area LED strip. If you want to see the Ver.2 update it is here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-n58T3RqK1xs.html

1. I know about ferro rods, but I've just found plain ol bic lighters to be long-term storage reliable that I have a couple of those in the pack. Striker rod aside, I actually have a Mora in the backpack - they are just such a lovely rare intersection of good and cheap. 2. Medical I have as separate modules. Used to be a Paramedic earlier in my life and a couple different medical bags live in my van next to the backpack. 3. I'm something of a maximalist and keep sleep gear in the van as well: sleeping bag / neck pillow / inflatable pillow. 4. I think I have a pack of those sitting around in a drawer somewhere. May add one, it is a nice bit of added utility for minimal space/weight. 5. I have spools of the stuff. Yes, there is some in the van. I think there's a medium length hank in the backpack. 6. Headlamps. Very handy for not taking up a hand. There's one in the backpack and others in different kits like my main toolbag and such.

Audio is way too low

@@NiluPaatel It is. I need to get a proper Lav mic - I actually already got one but I cheaped out on a no-name one and it won't work with my phone. It's on my (long) to-do list. Until then, my apologies for the audio levels.

I am definitely that. I will admit to being a well-programmed consumer that derives joy from having the newest bestest thing, at least in certain categories. Mostly tools and some electronics test equipment.

Thank you!

I'm glad it was helpful to you.

Early on when I was posting videos to RU-vid, I was just holding the camera in my hand and... not doing the best job of holding still, or at a constant angle, or... most of anything you would associate with terms like 'video quality' or 'production value'. My apologies for inflicting this suffering on your eyes.😵‍💫 We all learn, we all progress as we do stuff. Now at least I have a tripod. I do still need to get and use a Lav mic.

I hear ya! I shoot with an iPhone on a tripod and then use an old iPhone to record audio. Not sophisticated, but it gets the job done. Took me a year to figure out how to edit in Final Cut Pro X. If you want a project to take 3 times longer than it should, make a video about it. 😂

Hail and well met, fellow locksport enthusiast.

It took a few hours, and I should note that while it worked for a while, it was not a permanent fix (probably an imbalance in individual cell health that would be fixed by finding the problem cell and replacing). Still, it was good enough for me. If you are charging a rail and not an individual cell (I'm guessing that's what you mean by first set?), then I would go ahead and kick your current limit up to 2 amps or so. I was being overly cautious at first, but charging 3 or 4 18650s or 21700s in parallel can easily take that current. It will take way less time and so long as you have your voltage set to say, 0.1 volts under the max charge on the cell spec sheet, you're definitely fine. You can lower the current limit back down for the home stretch if you want.

@@neverendingstudent That's good info, thanks. I let it charge overnight and was happy to see that it fully charged that group of cells. My battery was maxing out at 2 led indicator lights, it now shows 3, indicating I'm on the right track... Thanks again for the video and advice...

Thanks! I'm glad one of my videos was useful for you.

I'm sorry, I honestly can't remember - it's been a year and I've since sold that computer. I think I just tried slotting in different ones to see how the spacing looked and went with what made sense to me. You want tight compression for your heatsink, but not so much tension as to damage the motherboard.

@@neverendingstudentThanks for the advice, I sent Noctua an email about this and they just told me to return the cooler to the vendor lol

I can confirm that you can use the original Lenovo backplate, the Intel brackets, and the AMD spacers (GRAY). You will need some M2.5 screws if you want to use the Lenovo backplate - I used 20mm. I also used a tiny washer under the screw, as the head of the screw just barely catches the slot in the Intel bracket. You would not have to use the washer, but I wanted that little bit of extra surface area for the screw to catch the bracket. Lenovo Legion T5, AM4 socket, ADM processor (5600G), Noctua NH-U12S cooler.

No argument that JBC makes very high quality soldering gear. ...For 20x the price. Maybe if I found an amazing deal on ebay, but ~$1000 for soldering is a bit much for me.

@@neverendingstudent More like 2.5k all in. That being said, AiXun makes a station (T320) that is a 200 watt system with JBC 210 and 245 clone handles. You can use JBC tips in it. It goes for a little over 100 bucks. Try it was the 245 handle and 3mm knife tip. Night and day compared to Hakko. Or Weller.

Like myself as a typical American, the bag weighs a fair bit more than anyone would reasonably like. In the bags case, 40lbs or just over 18Kg. I don't tend to walk around carrying it all that much - more often I'll strap it on top of my Packout rolling tool chest and wheel it around.

Thank you.

I wasn't as scientific with my follow-through on this as would have been ideal. It has gone back out of balance, but I didn't keep record of how many uses / charge cycles / days I put it through before seeing it go back down. It lasted a while, but I can't be less vague than that, my apologies. Most likely the definitive fix is isolation of a degraded cell and replacement of that individual cell - but manual charge balancing does extend the life before that at least.

You probably killed a component, maybe a power transistor. If you are comfortable with board-level repair you can probably fix it if you have the equipment. Also depends on how expensive the device is to replace vs how much repair would cost you (do you need to buy equipment or do you already have it) and you'd also want to weigh your time vs cost.

Used to charge phone and it melted it even on lowest setting dont use this

They are. I keep one in my toolbag and the other on my computer desk - the one on my desk is set up to turn on/off all my screens at the same time, I use it every day (and barely ever have to charge it, although it's only on for a few seconds a day to be fair).

It's not so much a GHB (or BOB or other common term for a prepared backpack) so much as it is a generalist pack that partially fills a bunch of different roles as the backpack portion of a more modular system of components that stay in my van. That sentence didn't make for a very good title though, so saying it's from my Get Home Bag is close enough.

It's more of a generalist utility pack that partially fills multiple roles.

@@neverendingstudent first aid is the most important feature of edc. Bandage, neosporin, ibuprofen…. A granola bar or two. Lighter, flashlight and multitools. U got a great tool kit. I am envious of some of ur gear. Keep up the prepping, god. Bless

@@chevy4x466 I actually used to be a Paramedic a while back - I keep 2 separate bags for medical in the van next to where I keep the backpack this kit is kept in (I should make videos on those). It's something of a modular system, the smaller of the 2 medical bags is a blackhawk brand medical roll that I can strap on the bottom of the backpack if I want to include it. I'm something of a maximalist and my van has various different... 'modules' I guess I might call them? The two medical bags are.. well, the medical portion, there is a section of shelving I use as a pantry where I keep the food and drinks (I've found if I keep food/drink in a 'for emergency only' area I inevitably have some period of time where I don't inspect / cycle it and then it either goes stale, leaks, or goes bad) - a regular use pantry area keeps everything cycled regularly. There are trade-offs with everything of course, with this approach I lose the option of maximum speed / grab 1 bag and run, but every approach has trade-offs and I'm comfortable with the ones I have made.

Very cool. I'd like to see it when it's done if you can post it on your channel.

Well holy crap, it's Dave! Thanks for visiting! I have an updated video for the bench I posted just over a week ago if you want to see what it has grown into. One of your 121GW meters features in it now.

For the Klein automatic strippers, I've really only gone as small as 22ga since that's what I work with most often. I've very occasionally done smaller and have run into issues of breaking some copper strands (for smaller gauge stranded) - in which case I clipped the bad end and did it with the regular strippers. So, for some of the devices that use 9V batteries, if I notice they tend to turn on when they shouldn't, one thing I'll try is putting the battery in upside down to store it inside the device but leaving the contacts not touching anything. Not all devices have the 'wiggle room' to put the battery in like that, but some do. Other than that I use lithium primary batteries for AAs and 9V and as such they last a long time, but I keep spares in my van in one of those large parts organizers. I like using lithium primary batteries instead of alkaline not just because of the higher capacity, but also because they are far more temperature tolerant and won't do the 'alkaline leak' mess in my expensive equipment.

@@neverendingstudent I’m always stressed about my batteries running out. Keeping in little caddies to keep them fast access like you did with an organizer. Thank you :)

Oooohh, I lust after getting an 8.5 digit multimeter (almost certainly the 3458a) and a Fluke multifunction calibrator. Both of those have been on my dream to-get list for at least a year now. I've *REALLLY* been wanting to have cal capabilities at home but... $$$$$$. I mean, I'm not poor, but damn. I've been looking at getting a DMM Check Plus as a lowish-end calibration reference, but I'd love the ability to calibrate 6.5 digit equipment and down from there - both just because my inner volt-nut wants it, but also because if I could cal with documentation I could make more money off it. Marco Reps (a German Electronics RU-vidr) made a video repairing a 5700a that was given to him by Germany's National Metrology Institute (the PTB) and that was an awesome watch, and hopefully one day an excellent resource if I get my hands on one myself: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qhr6h7wuqo0.html. And yeah, this is definitely a great way to add equipment to the lab. It may be random, but pennies on the dollar is right, sometimes slivers of pennies on the dollar. The first Kikusui PLZ334W Electronic Load I got at auction was $11 - and they can be found retailing for $2100 low end. I was super happy about that, especially when I found it worked and just needed cleaning.

Test equipment acquisition syndrome - ah, a fellow follower of EEVBlog. I've been on the teatime discord channel as I too have the syndrome.