Diesel mechanic by day, inventor, maker, creator, & builder all the time. Going from an architecture student, then diving into carpentry, to driving heavy equipment, then rebuilding them, I’ve always been driven to create things from a hands on perspective. Invent On The Spot is more than a motto, I hope to show that there’s always a time and place for creative minds to produce clever things out of next to nothing. If you’d like to be inspired by inventions and other DIY builds & creations, you’ve found the place. Please SUBSCRIBE and enjoy!!
Good design, good video, good voiceover. (edited to add the following) So, I decided I would make some notes in case I wanted to build one myself, and decided to see if I could remember some trigonometry. By my rusty calculations, the angle you state as 25 degrees is really 26.57, and the sloping side is 11.18 inches long.
Hate when people become snobbish like that calling it a ASO because its not a "real" anvil. Anvils are striking surface and they have been anything including large tough rocks like jade. Thats and anvil no matter how you see it, it could be a lower quality (which is also perspective of the user) but at the same time that may be a wanted thing. Sacrificial anvils are a use per basis and some like using them for finishing anvils for cold forging where more abuse would go to the anvil, also if they have risks of missing or glancing off the piece and hit the anvil's edges and doing damage.
I would have added to the base a plate where you would pour a concrete slab, that you can then remove if needed to go elsewhere. As well added to corners a small piping piece (like 2" length, 1/4" inner diameter) that you can use then to anchor the thing on ground with some steel pikes. And of course if having on wooden platform, added a couple holes to frame from where to screw it. And why I would have made the rear not angled, but straight so you can hang it from the wall and from plywood to cover rear. Another upgrade for the future, create a automatic reset with a dedicated target, so you don't need the string, but just a shot. That is more difficult to do.
Good design, thanks, but... Your inside bevel for the parts retainer sheet is definitely NOT 45 degrees; you can even see the slant of your jig saw. It must be more like 30 degrees because if you use 45, at the offset of .75 inches for your forstner bit, you will not clear the drill hole. I know. I have pictures. You need to offset the bit 1.5 inches at 45 degrees. Perhaps why you didn't at .75" because you chose a shallower bevel, like 30 degrees. Well, now off to buy another piece of plywood. Other note: for this cut, an A/B or A/A grade sheet would be better, rather than the A/C grade I used which was choppy on the bottom edge. Thanks.
Beautiful Work, I have a 4-5' Section I've been thinking about doing it for years. Everyone always talks about having weight under the hammer. I understand shaping the top; but haven't been able to understand why so much is always cut off the middle and bottom. The added weight would be a plus, correct. Is it to try and get double tap/strike?
Great idea. The only change I would make would be to double side tape the sides together. So this way you cut 1 side out and have a perfect matching pair. But overall fantastic build. I’ll definitely be stealing it
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I got this printer about 9 months ago. Until then I was using a resin printer because I believed it would give me more detail on models I was creating. After that printer crapped out I decided I would give fdm printing a try. I purchased the Neptune 2 mainly because of its price and good reviews. I was very happy with the results I got with this printer. While maybe not as detailed as a resin printer, my models still came out looking really good and a lot cheaper in price. One spool of filament is less than half as much as resin and a lot less messy. It's not a perfect machine, I've had to swap out the hot end twice already as well as upgrade the extruder. It's not a hard thing to do but it is a little annoying. But for the price and the results, it's not a big deal and I've learned a few things about my machine and how to keep it working well. Overall a really good printer and satisfactory experience.
Good to know😉 mine has been working well with no upgrades yet. I’ve used it for a handful of real world replacements and it’s still making good prints. It could be me, but it seems movements may be just more audible than the first day🤔 I have a video I’m finishing of a knob I replaced. I’d like to hear your thoughts on how it turned out.
@@InventOnTheSpot Well as it turns out my printer seems to acting up again. Now it won't heat the bed or the hot end. I think it may be the motherboard. Luckily I have a place nearby that uses and repairs 3d printers. If it is unsalvageable though, I would probably replace it with another Neptune 2 instead of the 2S or N3. I really like this machine and don't need the fancy upgrades.
