Idk what to think, this seems very likely to happen but Ive also seen videos of people shooting filled compressers and they just leak off. I think its more likely that your compressor actually got overpressurized, maybe the pressure release valve was stuck and the explosion knocked it loose, making it seem like it was working.
Don’t DIY welding on your compressor. Got it! P.S. I’m patting myself on the back after reading the comments. I peeped that compressor was repaired from the thumbnail. Don’t do it. Don’t put yourself at risk to save a few bucks.
With the collective 200 yrs and you blame the rust? 1) rust will pitter the shell wall then leak air which will be very difficult to not hear. Well before explosion. 2) your pressure relief valve is meant to be manually actuated periodically. No one with the combined 200 yrs were doing . Lastly every workshop keeps compressors outdoors for this reason, noise and air circulation.
I have the same compressor with lots of rust water coming out. I bought a new compressor today with a drain extension to make it easier to drain - because of this video. Thanks sir.
Full of rust implies you never drained condensation and I see homemade welds which means it was repaired at some point in its life time, I’m not coming at you I’m just explaining why this may have happened, I can’t say for certain but that may be why
I bought a shop from an old guy that came with a compressor all plumped into the building. I went to open a valve to run air to my lathe and instead got about 2 gallons of water out of it. Well, long story short, I gave him his compressor back.
@@crazyfordrivingatyahoo similar to the old one but it’s on a 108 LSA operating range is 3000-6000 rpm .483 lift on intake and exhaust @50 232 on intake and 237 on exhaust thanks for commenting!
There is more water in the air than you might think. Air is a mixture of gases, each at its individual partial pressure. The sum of these partial pressures comes to whatever atmospheric pressure is, about 14.7 psia. Water vapor is the only component gas of air that can be liquified by a typical air compressor. In many areas where prevailing dewpoints are high, the partial pressure of water vapor in the atmosphere can reach 0.4 psia which corresponds to a dewpoint of about 74F. When you compress air from 14.7 psia (0 psig) to 140 psia (125 psig) you increase its absolute pressure by a factor of about 9.5 and decrease its volume by the same factor. This means you increase the water vapor pressure and decrease its volume by that same factor. In the case of 74F dewpoint air, that vapor pressure is increased to 3.8 psia; however it can't stay in gaseous form at that pressure in typical ambient garage conditions. When this air is stored in a tank that is kept at typical ambient temperature, that compressed water vapor is going to condense to liquid water inside the tank until the dewpoint inside the tank is equal to the ambient temperature of the tank. The only solution is to either dry the air with a desiccant or refrigerant air drier (an option too expensive for small shops and homes) or rust proof the tank or fabricate the tank out of some rust proof alloy. In order to prevent condensation inside a 125 psig tank, the intake air would need to have a dewpoint of 12F or less. If, for example, you initially fill a 25 gallon tank with 125 psig air that has an ambient dewpoint of 74F in a garage ambient temperature of say 80F, you are going to deposit almost all the moisture in that air into the tank, in liquid form, as you reduce the charge air volume from 32 cu ft to 3.3 cu ft; btw, this yields about 0.6 ounce of liquid water. It doesn't take many cycles to gather significant water in an air tank if it is not drained. It should also be noted, that inside a compressed air tank, without some sort of air drier, the relative humidity will always be 100%. The internal surfaces of the tank will always be damp. This is the case because the air inside the tank contains water in its gaseous phase in closed-system contact with its liquid phase. These internal conditions inside compressed air tanks without corrosion protection makes them all ticking time bombs. I personally wouldn't keep one more than 10 years or so...
This happens because you don't maintain your equipment properly. I don't care how much experience you have turning wrenches. If you don't take care of your gear, it can really hurt you.
I believe the problem you had was(If you don't know about this) you have to release all pressure from the tank periodically from the bottom release valve(or a release valve pointed down). This way you drain and push out any condensation thats been built up and pools at the bottom of the tank. If you never drain built up condensation. It will sit and oxidize the inside of the tank. Turning it to rust and eating away at the tank from the inside out. Your tank is built to contain a max psi. But once those walls get thin enough. That max psi lowers until it hits your usual operating temperature. Then it explodes.. this is what happened to your tank. And the evidence is shown inside your tank. And in the rust shrapnel all embedded in your garage.... You know over tiwe get very complacent with the tools that we've used for years. You learn everything about About them. And then Complacency sets in, and over time you without realizing it we forget about warnings or safety precautions on maintenance procedures that can easily be skipped tens of thousands of times before something fails. And it's incredible.. thank god.. that someone wasn't close to it when it blue..... cause when tanks blow that way. It happens while it's on building pressure. Which usually means someone's using it or working near it at the time. And it can be fatal. Tanks that are regularly drained of condensation don't rust inside because oxidation doesn't set in... I don't mean any offense in what I said. It's just something that's extremely important. That's easily forgot about. Or overlooked When reading the manuals.
I think your compressor's pressure switch is stop working the reason why it store a lot of Psi in your tank and possibly because your tank is in rusty by several years was resulted to tear the weak portion of the tank and exploded.
I’d like to buy this kids parents a beer! In 1989 I did this exact same thing! Never regret the final result of such hard work. Celebrate as you wish, and lastly…..F ‘em! Kids should have every right to celebrate that last hour of high school. Burnouts ate a symbol of success in the car world. Nothing more happier to send off your senior year as a car guy than a tire shredding burnout out of the parking lot into real life. It’s telling the rest of the world “Look out, it’s only up from here baby!”
A safety warning to you... don't mess around and weld the air tank, as you seem to have done: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sm_FJ6Pat4I.htmlsi=zwqxd5KIcPTU4wMC&t=217 It seems also a pretty poor quality welding job you have done... 👎
Thank you for sharing. This isn't about what you did wrong, but what we don't know could seriously hurt us. Some tools need to accompany warnings and we're the lucky few who had seen this video before anything serious happen to us.
man I know I've seen this video before but it feels like way longer than 3 years ago. I recently got a compressor given to me and Im a little sketched out about it cause of this video lol
Appreciate the PSA. I’ve worked around air compressors for a long time. Never thought about the dangers. I recently picked one up. Part of its use is for a model hobby and I planned on having the compressor close. That has now changed. I’m glad no one was heart.
I didn't read through 8 thousand comments to see if anybody noticed but it looks like the tank may have been welded upon at the drain, A leak ? Thanks for the video. Neither did see this type of tank failure.
