Welcome friends one and all to the new Hi-Tek RC channel. this channel is dedicated to everything RC related. Racers, Bashers, Crawlers and everything in between. I love to build cars/trucks from a roller chassis as I enjoy the build time involved. One this channel I will also be teaching both my kids how to drive and work on RC cars.
2019 fusion 2.5 Jesus help me please I just did it all went to put the new thermostat on and noticed a small brass circular piece on the ground does it go in the hole and if it does any certain direction thank you
I have a question I replaced a 11 tooth starter with a 13 teeth starter on a Hyundai Genesis sedan, it's started good, but would I have any issues in the long run
Broo Nice video, a question , the panda hobby x1 are compatible with some trx4 m parts? Or i can put any 1/18 parts on panda hobby x1? greattings from Costa Rica
Broo Nice video, a question , the panda hobby x1 are compatible with some trx4 m parts? Or i can put any 1/18 parts on panda hobby x1? greattings from Costa Rica:)
So my car was hit and I’ve been rebuilding it I’ve done this and I still get the error message after replacing everything what else could be throwing the shirt to park ?
Hey it looked like you rotated the engine counter clockwise.. Isn't that a clockwise engine? I only ask because I have to do my personal vehicle in the next day or so.
Hey how much do you think would be reasonable for me to charge to do this as a mobile mechanic. I've done transmissions on jeeps and cars, not a truck before though. I normally pass on the job, but winters coming and I have a slow week. I live in Calgary, alberta, Canada so it definitely will be much rustier than that. I don't wanna rip myself off or the customer. What do you think a fair price would be? Thanks for the video btw.
if you can get the transmission bell housing to clear the truck once down than its not that hard of a job. as for a fair price that depends on how much the rust makes you work harder.
What makes the starter stay engaged after the vehicle is already started? What would cause the bendix to not fully disengage on a 99' Ranger? Same issue with two different starters, so it's not the starter. Ignition Switch? Wiring or maybe Relay contacts burnt/welded? Idk?
My god I hate these kind of videos. Stop with the loud horrible music that sucks and can’t focus on nothing with that shit playing. Makes you a bad RU-vidr with that nonsense.
My car had same noise ... i changed flywheel because it was damaged and applied new one ..and also repaired starter but now i have same problem .. starter pinion gear and flywheel doesn't match and sounds grinding but sometimes car starts without problem ..can anybody help me?
I have the P200A error code on my 2010 KIA Forte 2.0 L. I took out the actuator and found that the plastic coupler between the actuator and the linkage it turns was shattered. I was able to replace the coupler and I tested the actuator with a battery. The actuator turns when voltage is applied. Anyway, I cleared the error code and my check engine light came back on right away. After a bit of driving the check engine light went away. Unfortunately it came back on again yesterday and I have error code P200A, again. Any thoughts on what to do?
Sorry for the late reply. If the actuator works and the linkage is good you would need to check the actual manifold runner. make sure it moves free and that you hear the actual flaps open and close. if all else is good I would source a known good actuator.
I had this problem on my 06 350z and it didn't give me any warning. I started the car with my keyfob that morning and like an idiot i accidentally turned the key over for maybe a second and thats when im guessing my teeth broke or my flex plate broke (i couldn't hear it cause my car is kinda loud). I got to college and started it up after class and funny enough i was going to drop the car off at the schools auto tech center for them to replace my rear main and while driving out of the parking lot i hear rattling under my car. I was finally able to get my flexplate turned enough to start the car and i just drove it back to the auto tech area and left it. Its been about a month since i dropped it off and they still haven't be able to work on it but im glad i found your video to five me confirmation on my diagnosis.
So the car was already running and you manually cranked it causing the motor to crash into the teeth. It happens, Might as-well swap it out when they remo9ve it for the rear main seal.
@@HITekRC I had already bought all the stuff for them to replace the rear main and I picked up a used like new flex plate for only $40 instead of having to pay $400 for a new one
My car makes similar sound . 2 years ago I got my starter replaced n the guy who did it forgot to shim it n it’s been starting like this since .n now it’s bad sometimes it won’t even start . Is it the starter or flywheel ??
When you started talking about your shocks compared to your son shocks, it made me think that it would probably be worth it to takeoff one of them maybe identify which one is sticking the most and see if any water or debris got inside of them first before swapping out everything because it’s my bad that they either already have oil in them or they have collected water and debris somehow. Thank you so much for your video. I love it and I’ll be checking out your channel some more I just came across the panda K 1 on amainhobbies and right now they’re $79 they used to have more model options but all they have left is the red power wagon and I’ve already picked up two of them. It’s not the bronco but I’m pretty sure it’s the same chassis. I want to get one of these bronco so bad and I want the black one but almost everywhere I go they’re out of stock. I’ll find one one of these days soon. Have an awesome day. Thanks again keep up the good work.
If your flex plate had spots that had damage and you replaced both you might have an alignment issue with the starter itself. I Know some GM vehicles with the 5L engine had shims to shim down the starter
I have 2013 forte and its throwing code P2006 IMRC stuck closed bank 1.. do you think that runner control motor is my problem with it as well or might be the actuator or solenoid for that or something as well right?
If you have the ability to check the runner system than this is what you want to try and do. remove the motor for the IMR and try and move the lever for the actual runner. if it moves free than the runner itself isn't stuck. if you have access to a scan tool with testing ability you can activate the motor for testing. with no scan tool or access to wiring diagrams you can only test the mechanical linkage system.
