This model is no longer available as it has been replaced by the V3 version - link in the video description. Unfortunately, the V3 version will not be available in digital distribution. In the future, other button boxes should appear on my Patreon. If you are interested in this specific one, you can find a similar model on Cults3D or eBay - I have decided to sell one of my two units.
I'm really looking forward to the latest update, I've been beta testing it and there's a lot of great stuff coming, but best of all are the new physics.
There are more GT3 cars coming (Audi) but on the other hand: why the F would we need more of those? We need more people in the non GT3 lobbies. AMS2 has lots of other good classes. Learn to drive stick (heel toe) for example...
I would like to be able to recreate historical races with a full grid 🥹 I will definitely want to improve my driving techniques, but in my own time. I play very rarely and irregularly, but just driving and DIY brings me a lot of joy.
Thanks for the guide! I have an issue where my brake and clutch work beautifully but the accelerator do all sorts of weirds things - The input values jitter in the 1000's, and grounding it makes it accelerate 100% input. Would this signify a faulty load cell on the accelerator, or faulty simjack box/cable usb?
Could be LC or controller. Stock usb cable is bad quality so anyway it’s good to get something shielded and better. If it’s not helps ask supplier. They sometimes send LC or controller to customers.
@@Jullzman I talk with the manufacturer and if you place aluminium enclosure somewhere on your pedal plate mounting you should got same effect. I just followed ideas from Heusinkveld manuals 🤷🏻♂️
@@Jullzman I just say this two ways make same thing. You don’t have to solder it, you can put controller on the metal plate for pedal mounting and check if it help with your problems. If so, you can keep controller on the metal plate or solder gnd cable as I do. Also read video description 😀
Ogólnie chciałem, żeby się wygodniej wsiadało 😀 ale w sumie nie wiele to zmienia. W każdym razie odległość kierownicy od reszty jest teraz idealna, więc bądź co bądź zwycięstwo 😅
When removed the brass bushings, 2 of them broke. So, I had to replace all 6 bushings with flange bearings. The bearings are a much better solution over the bushings. So...
Like I said, quality of stock bushing is bad. When you play a bit on wobbling pedals you could make it weaker, that’s why they was broken. Bearings is good move if center hole diameter is the same diameter as tightening screw.
On my pedal set, I replaced the much too soft elastemors with Hawkeng Mid-soft and replaced the spring with an car engine valve spring. Made the perfect match.
This pedal design sets the pedals at a nearly flat angle. With the pedal plate set low, it soon becomes uncomfortable for your ankles. I found that elevating the pedal plate makes the flat angle much easier to manage.
I purchased Fanatic's Clubsport v3 pedals when they first came out. The Clubsports pressure goes directly to the load call. I tried everything to get a better feel for the brake, but enter got it right. I just ordered the SimJack Pro set with its spring/elastomer design. SimJacks take on the Neusinkveld design loadcell force transfer, is much better idea. This has improved my control of the brake by leaps and bounds, and at a much... much lower price.
Hi bro! Is it ok when I do a short video with the mod? Of course I will link and credit everything to you. But still think it's appropriate to ask first.
This is a genius mod, and it takes about 30 to 60 seconds per car (which also shows how clean and lean it is made). I totally love it ❤️🍀 PS: I deleted the clutch section in the lua file, which let me shift without problems now.
Clutch could need „<„ „>” signs adjustments depends on inverted pedals or not. Version 2.1 is better for cars with steering wheel shifters and 2.2 probably for H gearboxes. Actually don’t have to much time to work on it but maybe when finish my other project will back to it again.
@@willemvanesdonk8577 this power supply can handle safety 180leds, so you can use less LEDs but you need to know how to connect data cable because it’s one direction signal. You also need to know that more LEDs in sketch = more blocks on the screen to adjust. It could be more time consuming to adjust it to specific car 😀
@@Clay_Regazzoni I try to add hotfix of it today. Ian fix it by removing part responsible for this issue and sent me corrected code. It was probably part which move gear to N in some conditions.
hello i have a little problem with the ignition and start mod. Most of the car mods i use is already idleing when i go ingame can i do something so the cars is off when i load in or is it just gonna have to be like that
It should be off after installing start engine mod. Did you use first version or second? Don’t know why some people have problems with version 2.0. If it 2.0 try 1.0.
@@user-nz4oq9ck3e so if v1.0 don’t work too, the problem is on the car side or AC or you missed something. You need to install both scripts, sound and script lua as in the instructional video, and remove old data acd. You may check the scripts - I don’t remember but if there is something connected to rpm - it should have idle rpm of your car. Default was 900 idle rpm because I made it for Porsche 2016 GT3 R. If you install it to this car it should work instantly. Don’t have access to computer now so can’t check it for you. You can write to me on FB or IG or Patreon.
Hi. 5:56 - there is cable connector on the bottom of the enclosure 😬 maybe one day I will try with wireless but for now all my projects was cable connection
I've thought about it many times, but I spoke with someone who measured this box, and we agreed that it's too valuable of a project to just let it go around on the internet... 😬🤷🏻♂️
I've thought about it many times, but I spoke with someone who measured this box, and we agreed that it's too valuable of a project to just let it go around on the internet... 😬🤷🏻♂️
Mate this is awesome! Deffo going to try it out, awesome work! I actually have a request for you to make something... basically, I want a launch control app that will play 2-step sounds at a set RPM. For example, when pressing fully on the throttle with clutch in, it will start playing 2-step sounds. And make it so that we can use our own 2-step audio recordings, making them interchangeable. It's something that will totally change Assetto Corsa for the better! It would be great if it could all be implemented into an app within Assetto Corsa. I have been after something like this for years, and a lot of other people want it too! :)
With code provided In anti lag mod you should make it easy 😀 all crucial formulas is there. Now it’s just adjusting for own purposes. But if we talking about AC app - I would like to have it like that but I don’t know how to build them. I more 3D designer than app or scrip designer. Making all these mods working like that, I mean ignition, stall, start engine and anti lag took me lots of hours 🥲
It’s probably better way if you can make it directly in SFX but maybe this script could be helpful to achieve anti-lag behavior. I’m pretty sure it is possible to play this sounds from sound bank instead of mp3 files from extension. Otherwise is also nice that anybody can use custom mp3 files just swapping them in extension folder.
Ma façon de faire est meilleure mais la tienne est activable et desactivable. Pas moi. Et moi je dois recréer le son moteur complet de la voiture alors que toi simplement l'antilag donc à ce niveau c'est mieux pour toi. Un conseil que je fais, l'antilag consiste à garder la pression du turbo en charge. Je modifie le turbo lag down dans engine.ini pour qu'il reste en charge. Si tu peux faire ça dans ton script, ca serait génial. Ton turbo resterait en charge comme en vraie
@@MR.EVERLOST c'est une très bonne idée ce que tu as fait. Il faut juste trouver comment l'améliorer. Je suis sûr que c'est faisable avec un .lua d'intégrer le lag du turbo du fichier engine.ini
Amazing video thank you. I just have a question to ask, when I removed my brake rod to switch the elastomers the back metal plate that locks it in the groves was a very tight fit and didn’t seem to go in at all, I think it needed to be filed down just ever so slightly. I taped it on both sides with a wrench to make it flush. Do you think I did any damage to the load cell by lightly taping it on both sides with the metal wrench? Everything feels fine and now the metal goes in nicely but still tight. Might just be paranoid. Not sure how sensitive the load cell is, but I mean we do smack the brake pretty hard so I’m sure it able to withstand some abuse.
The easiest way to check is by connecting pedals to a computer and testing brake. I'm not sure if you damaged anything, but I've heard that this part is very tightly fitted in the new SimJacks. I don't understand why, but that's how they designed it. There's little tolerance in that area, which is why removing it isn't as easy as in mine or in the HE Ultimate. You might want to gently grind down that plate if you want remove it easier in future 🤔
It was great journey and I meet a lot of great people because of this 😀 now I have newer version of this builded so close to original one and I use it a lot 😀
I really like the design of this button but cannot see where to find the STL. I used to see your designs in thingiverse long time ago, but coudlnt find you anymore.
