@@user-lx7ou4ek2s if I recall correctly, the skull is 2mm, and everything else is 1.5mm. That's likely thicker than was truly necessary for most uses though!

@@Lamellae-d1v leather is another option :)

So if i use leather as a fabric backing for the plates, then sewing, seamless allowance isnt required? You could just rivit the plates onto the leather backing? Also i really appreciated the response

@@Lamellae-d1v it would be possible to use leather and not sew anything at all if you use one big piece, though one difference from fabric is that you don't need to sew the edges; on fabric it'll fray and come unwoven, but with leather the edge is solid and doesn't need and finishing :)

Yea.. authenric leather is way above my pay grade. But if i get some fabric as sturdy as leather, then sewing or lacing isnt required? Like i can just attach the lamellar plates onto the fabric using rivets and nothing else right?

@@Lamellae-d1v That's definitely possible to do with just the rivets :) We did this with two layers of canvas to make it sturdy enough, and sewed the edges shut because we liked the way it looked and figured would make the whole thing last longer.

yep :)

Not a dumb question at all :) Different armorers do it different ways, and my own methods don't require frequent heating (although it would be nice sometimes, I'm a little limited by tools in this case),l. But I cheat because I use a welder a lot lol

​@@LivingManuscript I was wondering what thickness of steel you usually use?

@@deece1482 most typically I start with 1-2mm sheet, but depending on how its shaped that thickness can change. The thinnest sections go primarily on the limbs and backplates, with the front of the torso and head usually getting treated to something a bit thicker, depending on what the armor's intended use is :)

​​@@LivingManuscript thanks for getting back to me. I'm a reenactor, but I don't do combat typically, so 1mm steel should do fine. Guess I have to get learning. I primarily need to make a better fitting arm harness as off the shelf stuff doesn't fit properly.

Agreed! Would still not try to get hit of course haha. Hoping to revisit this sometime :)

Pretty close, we each have three hit points that are lost, one by one, by striking in "vulnerable" areas, usually when people are hit for the third time they'll say "dead" or something other than "three" :)

I do :) Funnily enough, this sort of thing takes less time to do than making armor because I can organize them from anywhere, but I need to be physically in my shop for buildiing

My people need me, I must go

Maybe one day! Still making sure I know what to do with steel first :)

These were 16 gauge (1.5mm?) Though historically armor for the arms could get even thinner

@@LivingManuscript i know and in other areas its been discovered to be up to 6mm thick

Check out the ruleset though, it's not much like SCA (at least not locally to me); the armor can function as armor so you're not going to get stabbed through your breastplate whether it's historical or not.

With the harnessfechten experiment for SCA , hema and sca is going to look a bit more similar ​@@LivingManuscript

@@josephdedrick9337 I've seen a bit of that! Looks pretty cool, I hope some of the SCA folks near me latch onto it :)

@@LivingManuscript based on what I've been seeing it's going to be pulling quite a few people into it. I know I'll be involved in it as much as I can

@@josephdedrick9337 I'll be looking forward to see where it goes!

Pretty much :)

Indeed, it's a lot of fun :)

Thanks! There are a few examples of perforated visors or eyeslits which resemble modern perforated steel. Although there are some examples of essentially the same thing, such as the bicoquet in Berlin, and some late great bascinets feature visors comprised entirely of holes. One reason I suspect they seem to appear less frequently than more "conventional" visors is that punching so many holes was likely a long process, today perforated steel like I used here is done by machines :)

@@LivingManuscript ok thanks

at this point it has became buhurt lol

Yes! One accessible method is to rivet several pieces together. This doesn't give the same effect of appearing to be made in one piece, like welding achieves. Another historical way, which mostly superceded the Former method, is to raise the piece; heating and hammering the steel using some special stakes and hammers till it is the shape you want. The extent of raising I've done is mostly limited to shallow pieces, and usually without actually heating the steel either, which isn't so viable for raising an entire gauntlet or helmet skull without another method of joining them together like riveting or welding, but for raising something big requires a way to heat the steel like a forge or gas torch setup. For seeing how raising us done though, I would look to Eric Dube, Armourysmith, and Albert Collins, all here on youtube :)

@@LivingManuscript Thanks man, i will be starting to make armour too later, i just gotta get steel. But when buying steel (atleast on the websites i found in my country" they are very confusing if you arent very into steel, like there are soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo mnay options and stuff. The only thing i've heard is that mild steel if good for starting out

@@TheAdmiral8799 I understand your pain, but once you know what to look for the steel sites are much more bearable :) . Mild steel is definitely a good place to start since it's cheaper than carbon steels and is forgiving to work with (it's nice that the actual makeup of the steel isn't so far off from a lot of historical steels, just more consistent). If there are any machine shops nearby you, they can be a good source of big sheets of steel, and will usually be willing to trim then down if you need that. It should be said, my experience with them has been overwhelmingly in person and over the phone since their online footprint isn't typically their main priority.

Definitely, some sources seem to indicate that there may have been even four sepatate chains attached to the breastplate. Shield, sword, helmet, dagger, I expect that it was probably somewhat modifiable.

It's all one piece, but when I close the triangular gap (ends up being a seam on the inside of the arm) I used one rivet to secure it. Unfortunately I didn't capture this very well on camera :/

Pretty much spot on :) there wasn't much of this around me when starting out, but I was able to make friends who brought their other friends to events I hosted once in a while