(Former owners of Wayzgoose Warrior) Sailing Seabird is the story of an abandoned boat and a couple who dreams about seeing her back in the water after 15 years on the hard.
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Fair winds and following seas :) Stuart & Marina & Seabird Merch coming soon 🔥
Friend has 2 waste tank as you suggest. One I back of hulls in catamaran but remember tank must be above the waterline!( so it empties). Some of the French catamarans have tall ones behinds cupboards and that can drain outside when required ! A simple system .
I enjoy watching your rebuild. I have been using an in line holding tank installation for about 30 years with good luck. Suggest locating the bottom of tank above your boat's waterline and plumb discharge line below bottom of tank so that it will empty completely. I use a pvc valve ahead of the thru hull valve so that you can do maintenance on the thru hull valve without having to clean the tank.
My only misgiving about removing a second head, when you are lucky enough to be able to have one, is that one on either side of the boat means one toilet will always be available regardless of which tack you are on. But you're young, haven't had 7 children and therefore don't need to empty an ever overflowing bladder every five minutes.
Hi guys. I'm looking forward to how the toilet is all installed. (It's on my to do list on our boat). The bilge paint looks awesome. Keep up the good work. Ps. Your doing floorless job🤔haha. 👍 SV Kiwi Lady Opua Bay of islands New Zealand 👍🏿
You’ve got to have a big heart to take on a job like this and keeping going in the early days is not easy but here you are a year on, fantastic, well done!
Thank you. At times, it seems huge, but just take each day as it comes. It will end at some point, and we might as well enjoy it until then. Cheers for watching 🙂
I recall from the early days when in the French canals, Marina was the Piglet to your Eyeore! I still remember the aluminium swarf in the scuppers being a worry for you and fairy dust for Marina!❤. The roles have seemingly reversed recently and there’s something of the Eyeore in Marina now. Relax my dear and find your lovely inner hippie again. Your both doing just fine and never have I seen so much love lavished on bilges before. Go well!👍
Delightful video - most enjoyable to watch. In the interests of accuracy and reassurance, I hope you won't mind if I backtrack a few months and lumber you with yet another of my lengthy literary offerings. A few months ago you were a bit concerned about your keel. In your excellent video, a pleasant chap turned up with a moisture meter and there was some debate and concern about the laminate thickness of the keel encapsulation. Might be worth mentioning that when used in close proximity to iron or steel, those dinky little moisture meters invariably malfunction and flag false alarms. For that reason alone, the gadget I saw being used in your video would be highly unlikely to produce anything other than misleading readings when used on your boat's keel. Moving on but still referring to that video footage... To resolve the discussion about the keel's laminate thickness, you need objective data rather than a subjective comparison. Conversational remarks along the lines of "My keel laminate's thicker than yours", don't tell you anything useful - not least because the other bloke's keel might be far thicker than necessary. My point being: without a reference source of objective information, how would either of you know which (if either) keel is at fault? One of the yacht designer's standard reference works is "The Principles of Yacht Design" by Lars Larsson. Considered to be the Bible for the professional yacht designer, it will tell you all you need to know and - if you're an amateur - a whole lot more that you don't. But instead of wading through a heavy textbook crammed with extreme detail and somewhat arid mathematics, let's take a shortcut and cut to the chase. So... GRP keel encapsulation. Perhaps surprisingly, in terms of the loads they have to deal with and looked at purely from an engineering perspective, the SIDES of your keel's GRP encapsulation don't have a great deal of work to do. Assuming a layup of CSM and polyester resin has been used, to obtain adequate structural strength on a boat like yours, the laminate on the vertical faces of the keel need be no thicker than about 8mm. However, as you continue upwards, the laminate thickness will need to increase considerably as it approaches and crosses the keel to hull transition. In that area the transverse loads developed on the keel root can be very high, and on your hull I'd expect an ultrasonic test or core sample in the keel / hull to reveal a laminate thickness of 30+ mm. Incidentally, the separation you found between ballast and encapsulation is neither unusual nor catastrophic. During a build, when a wet porridge of scrap iron and concrete is poured into a GRP keel moulding, it's not going to stick to the fibreglass. If wet enough it'll closely follow the shape but it won't adhere. Cure shrinkage, thermal movement between the dissimilar materials, plus normal load deflections pretty much guarantee that soon after the boat was built, a gap will have started to appear between the ballast and the encapsulating laminate. If it's reasonably dry in there then fill it if you like, but in the meantime please don't lose any sleep over it. At fifty years old your keel has long since reached a state of structural equilibrium, so if it hasn't fallen off before it's unlikely to do so now. Following on from the foregoing, and bearing in mind that (due to a myriad of design variables) these are not prescriptive figures, I'd expect the thickness of the hull laminate below the waterline to be in the order of 12+mm and that of the topsides 8+mm. If you've found thicknesses somewhat similar to, or thicker than, the above examples in the construction of your boat, then you've nothing to worry about. If the laminate is thicker, then by today's standards it's overbuilt, which of course makes the hull stronger - albeit a little slower through the water than a more recently built equivalent with similar waterline length and hull shape. Phew! Cheers, Chris
Y'all should be very proud of how far you've come in this restoration, it's very impressive and we all look forward to your next video, keep up the good work, it will pay off
I think you found a very good place for that tank.Your boat is really big so you find always options. The vent should be straight up i think. Keep it simple Stu!
I just realized that Marina is left-handed. How did I not see that before? I have been following for at least two years. You are both doing a really good job of bringing this boat back to life, and doing it properly. She will be a safe, secure, and comfortable home for you for many years to come.
Hi, my experience with the inline black water tank is very good: Easy handling and no bad odours, at least on the boat we chartered this May. We used it for 2 weeks. 2 factors are important: size and location. size: 25 liters volume seem very little to me, I would double that amount. location: as high above the waterline as possible. The location you chose may be too low in order to empty well ba itself. The outgoing hose needs to attach from below (that's "inline") in the deepest spot. There are conical upright tanks available that adapt to the form of the hull.
I didn’t quite get how you’re wanting to set your black tank up but for what it’s worth this is how I’ve set up black water tanks: - From the macerator pump on the toilet to a Y valve to choose to go either directly overboard or to the holding tank. It sounded like you are wanting to go through the tank to overboard in the first case, presumably under power of the macerator pump from the toilet, but if you close the tank off from overboard and use it at anchorage how will you empty the tank at sea? Also without the Y valve the length of pipe to the overboard discharge seacock forms a sort of cul-de-sac and can block up with the “heavier" waste. - A second macerator pump after the tank to be able to pump the tank overboard when outside of the anchorage, or outside of protected or restricted waters etc - A pump out capability for when alongside and where you have the shore facilities to pump the tank out, either using your own second macerator pump or the suction from shore - being aware that some shore suction facilities are so powerful they’ll collapse a small tank if the vent isn’t big enough. And be cautious about putting your vent on the cabin side, even with a filter the smell can suck into the cabin through hatches and portholes.
Great advice. We'll have a closer look. All we know atm is that the tank might fit. Next is to work out the plumbing. And then give it a go. Cheers for watching 🙂
AH! At last moment some positive news on the brink of weekend, after a overall dreary and depressing day. You guys have come a long way already. Great job! 👍 Pity indeed, covering it up now it looks so good after so much work. 🤷
With the intro we can see the immense work accomplished. Marina and Stuart, you are a wonderful team. It is a great pleasure to subscribe to help you make this wonderful project. Very beautifull work this week!!!!😀
Marina I bet you never thought that first time Stuart said come with me and sail round the world you never thought you'd be arse up in the smelly old bilge of. a 50 footer don't worry luv one day eh! All good guys cheers n beers Marty Australia
