I'm a regular guy builder in a small garage striving to do my highest quality work, and learning a ton along the way.
I’m glad you’re here.
David
willometmotorandfab.com/
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I have a 1999 Suburban 6.6 that I did a frame off on and every upgrade possible. I would like to know something I bought an Alternator JS Alternator 250 Amp out put. It works great but it will not operate my tach. Could use my factory alternator and the high out put on using your bracket. Also belt is used when adding an additional alternator my system is a serpentine belt. Hope you can help thank you.
I'd recommend using a stock CS130 in the primary position and the big boy 250 in the secondary. That will for sure drive your tach, and you'll keep the additional capacity when needed.
Just sold my '94 6.5 Burb that I've had for 20 years and regretting it already. So, did you run the stock turbo set-up or had that been upgraded previously?
I’m seriously considering balancing my 6.5. So far, what are your thoughts? Have you put it on a dyno yet? Does it actually run smoother due to balancing it ( like it should)?
I will always recommend getting an engine balanced while it's out and taken apart. It's actually pretty cheap compared to other machine work. My 6.2 was balanced just like this 6.5, and they're both noticeably smoother through the RPM band, but especially above 3000. I've taken this up to 4000, and it sings the whole way. I doubt I'll dyno this setup. There's little value in getting on the rollers with 40s and a lot of gearing in the transfer cases.
Hello and thank you for this video. But at 8:22 you don't mention something that I can't figure out. The 6.5 rebuild book says to rotate crankshaft until the "mark" is at the 2 o'clock position. Then rotate CCW 3.5 inches until the "mark" is around the 12:30 position. WTF is all that? What mark? I have a fluid dampner balancer with all kinds of marks on it. The zero mark? I am stuck and scared because it says improper install will lead to breakage. Thank you for any and all help
It’s probably talking about the timing marks on the chain or gear set for the cam and injection pump. The gears and sprockets only go on one way and have dots punched on them so the cam and crank are correctly oriented to one another.
when the 6.2 self dissembled was there a turbo installed? how much boost was it set for? theres limits to boost on the higher compression 6.2 engines, 21 to 1 if memory serves me...add 8 pounds of boost it will live add 10 pounds plus then you get a grenade....
Id leave my car with these guy for 6 months if I could afford it man I can't wait for full floating 9 inch with a lot more traction never owned a open diff till now I swapped a 6.0 in two a 1984 Cadillac that 7.5" open diff is tragedy's waiting to happen shoves hole car to the left lane no problem a lot quicker than down the road that's for shure
Is that Magnum transfer case an off-road only (or mostly) transfer case or can it be driven on pavement regularly or at highway speeds? I’ve never seen one before and it looks like quite a solid piece of machinery.
The magnum is definitely ...geared... toward the harder core offroad crowd, but it does just fine on the highway. I've run it for a little over 10 years and have maybe 50,000 miles on it.
While the worn out balancer may have contributed to the crank failure, i believe the block is probably more to blame. You most likely had main web cracks that finally let go. Probably more than 50% of GM diesels left driving have main web cracks, and they progress to the point of block/crank failure like what happened to you. I know my 6.2 has small cracks on the main webs. I don’t know how long they have been there, or how quickly they are progressing, but it continues to run and I just take it easy in hopes to not stress the block too much.
Too bad you didn't do a full walk around on everything including setback & engine mounting to run a stock mechanical fan, intercooler setup & AC pump to frame mounting. Exhaust is interesting around the Pam to avoid driveline hitting too.
Howdy! I noticed the Aggie ring. Gig’em! Can anyone recommend a 6.2/6.5 engine builder? Preferably in Texas. I have two engines I would like rebuilt for more power. I just don’t have the time to do it myself. One is in a M1009 CUCV and the other is in an M998 HMMWV. Both run good. I’m restoring both and would like them more capable of highway speeds. I plan on putting a 6L80E or 4L80E behind both.
I’m assuming you had to call ORD about wanting a spring for a greater lift then 4” and using a tension style shackle? Because on their website they say you need a shackle flip for anything greater then 4” for their custom springs.
I can't agree with you more. I've always said, "Every brand has their failures and their successes. If you act like they don't, you are doing a disservice to the auto industry and yourself.". I'm swapping an F136 from a Maserati into my FR-S. You sir, motivate me. Keep at it!
I work with a few metal working shops both locally an online. Send cut send is amazing! Even for local shop where there is no shiping I cannot beat the lead times and prices are ussually not far from prices I get on larger orders of items from other shops. Only drawback is I have parts I get powder coated and a lot of my parts are larger than thier capabilities allow. I have been blown away by there quality, turn around rate, and speed. I've also used Xometry but for anything I'm making, the prices are about 3-4 times higher than send cut send.
As someone who owns a wagoneer, how difficult do you think it would be to build this same kind of rear suspension for a Wagoneer? My wagoneer has a tension shackle rear and I’d love to build up on that platform by swapping to some square body style tension shackle hangers, grab some long range travel shackles from Off-road Design and work on a shock setup similar to yours
@@WillometMotorFab awesome. I’m definitely going to give it a shot then! I’ll start out swapping an OEM style rear shackle hanger with their HD long travel shackle and see how things line up. Maybe upgrade to one of their other hangers in the future. Later down the road I’d love to do some better springs than my Rusty’s lift springs
This rebuild series has given me so much inspiration to do my own 6.5 build one day. I think I've re-watched this 3 times now and I just love it! What I'm thinking right now for my own hypothetical build is to use a stock engine and change out some key furnishings, like putting a Fluidampr on, but keep block parts stock. Except for one key component! You already put TotalSeal piston rings in your build. But I want to go a step further and put the Speed of Air pistons in, which use TotalSeal rings. That's the wet dream right now. Can't stop obsessing about the SoA pistons! If those guys play their cards right, their patents should become the next big revolution in combustion engines!
@@WillometMotorFab Thanks! I mean, I would love to do what you did, with the forged crank and balancing and all that, but it's a little out of my budget 😄 I know you're probably not itching to open up that 6.5 again anytime soon, but I sincerely hope you'll have a chance to try out SoA pistons in your build some day!
Now that you've had the roof rack on for awhile, have you seen any water intrusion at the nutserts? or have the gaskets that it came with been enough to keep water out? Ill be installing one on my K5 and I'm curious of real world experience with the rack.
Man this is cool. Grew up with 6.5s, dad has a pretty turned up p400. Here because I'm getting ready to do a 6.5 build and put it in my 63 impala with a 4l80e What a cool video!
That first tip on not jumping into too much is a lesson I’ve learned the HARD way with my Wagoneer build. Between a 5.7 Hemi + 8spd swap, Ford 1-ton axle swap, and widetrack fender conversion all at once. Then I decided to work on interior AND reworking EVERYTHING. it’s biting off too much at once.
Nice work David!! I've heard the protective spray for bare metal referred to as "Ego Juice" for the way it makes the welds and metal look when it's applied. Really brings out the colors in the TIG welds and makes photographs (and videos) look amazing.... :) If I know I'm going to take a few IG pics, not ashamed to say that I will wipe everything down with a little ego juice first.... LOL
Ego Juice. That's going in the bank. It does totally change the color of the work, but I also can't handle letting it rust until I get back to it. We can take the hit on Ego Juice and avoid extra work later. We need to get together soon and drain some MP beer.
