I am a enthusiastic collector and user of miniature machine tools, My collection includes the following machines along with the accessories to suit:
Emco Unimat SL Emco Unimat 3 Emco 3 Mill Sherline 4000 Cowells 90ME Cowells B100 V Mill Super Adept Lathe Adept No.1 Shaper Star Watchmakers Lathe Kennedy Hexacut Power Hacksaw Hemingway Power Hacksaw
As well as owning the above machines I have used many others so if you need any info why not drop me a message. I particularly enjoy building things in miniature and have built everything from pens to steam engines. My channel is focused around these interests. I hope you enjoy my content and if so why not subscribe!
@@egb33665 The plans are from the book: "Cowells 90 Lathe - A Handbook by A. Smith" Unfortunately I can't really provide them, because I might be in breach of copyright.
It's a decent designed lathe but it's just too small. If it was twice as big, it would make it easier to work with. Regarding the return spring, I'd just take it off.
For my Unimat DB, I made one to hold an 11 mm drill bit (useful for M12×1.00 threaded holes), plus a 1/4" hole for various useful bits. Very much appreciated!
Okay, now let’s try stainless steel! 😂😂😂😂 Wow, I’m glad you’ve shown this! The setup time is way more than I thought! I’m sticking to tap and die for now and save for some small later with threading ability! Thanks for the video! Very detailed!
This works like the threading attachment on a Hardridge tool room lathe. On the Hardridge the master mounts on the outboard end of the lathe spindle. This makes changing thread pitches about a one minute job.
Life is fiddly to set up and quite noisy in operation, the saw is just doing it's job. Does it make any more noise than when in the lathe setup. The video was interesting, haven't seen this attachment in operation before. Thank You...
Well I've made one for my Cowells - but very different! I machined some cast iron bar to fit in place of the normal toolholder but it is cross-drilled in the same way. And it works very well.
Very good, I've just made one myself. I've got the same knurling tool and got pretty much the same result. My only difference was using precision ground stainless steel for the rod as I had some available. Oh, and a second rod which will be tapped M4 and M2 to take brass inserts for various purposes.
I was running mine and heard to distinctive pops and maybe a few sparks. I bypassed the speed control and ran direct to motor and it runs super high RPM, what should I consider looking at for the cause of the failure? To repair my old speed controller? It did no longer work with speed controller wires in circuit
Hard to say, depends on the materials being ground. The standard belts won't last very long sharpening a steel knife. The blue zirconium belts last a lot longer. 🙂
is the cowells stiffer than the Emco? You think it'd do stainless steel with light cuts? I have an EMCO (desktop) but its not rigid enough for stainless steel. Lots of chattering.
Possibly got one. Original wooden box come in good bit attachments milling piece.arbors tooling looks brand new. First edition heaviest one . Has big x on bottom cast. There pricey little devil's in great shape. 3 jaw chuck, Jacob chuck, I wanting little bigger spindle bore. To put barrels in. Make me a serious offer if ur interested send you some pics.
Hmm.. i thought of buying one of these but i will just stick to my dies for home use. It seems you can only do one pitch of the thread and thats whatever the follower is at or am I wrong. I pressume you can buy metric and imperial threadforms for it to follow?
Yes you need a leader and follower for each different thread pitch. If you are making common screw threads then dies are much easier. Where the attachment excels is when an unusual pitch and diameter combination is needed. Say a fine 0.5 x 40 for a camera lens or similar. 🙂
Ok so i did purchase one of these, and a new motors and controller, as even at the lowest speed it was still too fast in my opinion, so now I can cut threads minus the anxiety 😂
