Mine is the Combat motor, though I now have the fantastic PW3 camshaft. What I did with my pushrods, is to work out the correct length by having the valve adjusters exactly in line with the valve stems when at exactly half lift.. I then sent mine to Mick Hemmings to adjust the lengths. I cannot recall how I worked out how much to shorten them by. Maybe I set the standard valve clearances, then turned the engine over until any given valve was at half lift, then measured how much I needed to screw out each adjuster to get it in line with the valve stem, then have that much removed. This improves the valve geometry, but still didn't cure my adjusters sliding across the valve tips. I understand Norton increased the valve stem length for the Commando compared to the Atlas, I have no idea way as certainly for me, it created a problem.

@@petercharlton515 Correct Answer I had my push-rods shortened abt .025"

The 14 mm master cylinder you initially installed? Did Les supply that as part of his kit, or did you source and try that yourself? I cannot find the amount of lift in the official manual, but it does state minimum lift to clear clutch 35 thou.Its probably around that, its a problem with Tridents that the clutches have to be machined very accurately as there is so little lift available, that engaging neutral at a standstill can be a problem. The 9.5 Magura I have feels just right, the weight of my leg on the kickstart, just manages to bring the lever down when the clutch is pulled right in. It would be nice if I found a 9.5 master cylinder with a little more travel. Have yet to try it though, will report back here when I do.

Here is a link to their website, just go to customer support. They were very good and I haven't had any trouble with the replacement. driftinnovation.com/

@@petercharlton515 Thanks, I will do it. All the best!

Probably still under warranty. Contact Drift direct, they were very good at replacing mine. Especially if this is a now known fault.

Yes they were, sorry. You may be getting confused with earlier peashooters such as those fitted to the 1969 and 70s models such as the S type, which indeed had no seam. If you look up the Norton adverts with the Norton Girls, such as the one entitled "Temptation", you can clearly see that they have that welded seam around the larger end cone.

​@@petercharlton515Sorry, if you're talking about your 72 Combat mufflers, new peashooters supplied with Combats were seamless. One year later, early-mid '73, seamless were no longer available until almost 1980. And those peashooters you're showing have no sound I'm familiar with. How do I know? I own 4 Combats and still have the rusted burnt out original peashooters that were supplied on two of them. They didn't last that long that you would still have a pair. There were several peashooter suppliers but those being shown are not Combat originals. You're guessing. Nice try though.

@@NortonCombat-ib3xw Back in the 70s, I had the 1973 MKV 750, they were exactly the same as these I have fitted to my present Combat in this video, now maybe I am mistaken and the 72 MKIV had seamless, but these I have are still original Norton fitment, I had them on my MKV then in 78 I needed a new one, Gus Kuhns said, "this is the last one, you won't find another one like this", and sure enough, some months later I needed another one, and had to buy a pattern Toga which was much quieter and more restrictive. Having said that, I think you are in error as all the roadtests and adverts for the MKIV show these silencers with the seam at the last cone, here is a Cycle World road test from 72, you can see the seam at the end cone, have a look at the Norton adverts of the time. As far as I am aware, it was the earlier peashooters that were completely seamless and they had a little hole at the end for optional mufflers to quieten it a bit. As for my still having a pair, it took me 25 years going around autojumbles and looking inside for genuine Norton ones, if they cannot possibly be genuine after all this time, this would suggest that there is an aftermarket supplier who makes the internals exactly the same. Now I have never seen these and would love a pair of new ones as the ones on my bike now are rather tatty and have scrapes all along the bottom of one, please let me know if you ever encounter them. magazine.cycleworld.com/article/1972/5/1/norton-commando

Further to my last, are you guys who do not think these are Commando Peashooters in the States? I wonder if we got the loud ones here in the UK and yours had to be quieter for legislation?

I am more concerned that those who will inherit my bikes will fail to turn the oil on. I Have these on a couple of my bikes so am used to turning the oil on as much as the petrol, plus I have just the one battery I swap from bike to bike which I have "OIL" written on the side in big letters, plus I have a red leather fobs with "OIL" embossed that I fit around the handlebars, Plus I have "OIL" in big letters written by the padlock when they are stored outside. Actually I think your way sounds a lot less trouble. My Commando I fitted a brand new old stock oil pump, it still wet sumps in no time at all.

Yes, at least compared to all the pattern Peashooters I have ever seen, and that includes the later ones that Norton themselves produced with "Norton" embossed on the side. If you look at my original ones from about 1:30, you will see they are quite cavernous inside and follow more the megaphone shape of the externals. The main thing I notice compared to pattern ones I also own, is the outlet, my pattern ones, that maybe Toga, have a straight tube that is an inch or two long and that doesn't even follow the shape of the rest of the internals, whereas these genuine ones flow right to the end were they curve into that final constriction which is about half an inch. My first Commando was the MKV 750 you have, that went very well from standard, even better once I had Dudley Ward flow the head and put a 4S cam in it. It out accelerated the Kawasaki GPZ 750 when they came out at the start of the 80s.

It has the Combat head so compression is 10:1. it is also gas flowed by Norman White and I run Black Diamond Valves that I cut the seats with more than one angle for better flow. The cam is PW3. I know from my own experience though that the main contributor to how crisp its sounds, is the fact I am running the original silencers as fitted by Norton up to 73. Back in the 70s I had to replace one side, and got an original from Gus Kuhn who said, "You will never get another one of these, this is the last one", and sure enough, when I had to replace the other side I had to get one of the pattern ones that everybody uses these days. One day down the pub, a fella who was about to sell his Commando was quite happy for me to swap my newish pattern silencer for one of his originals along with buying him a beer. The difference in sound quality on the way home showed just how muffled the pattern ones are, it sounded like it was running on two cylinders again where as before it sounded like it was running on one and a half.

I'm not familiar with Mick Hemmings Isolastics so would be guessing to say it is the cradle tube ends itself that they adjusters rest against, so cannot see how the iso rubbers could be to blame unless their internal tubes are protruding further than the cradle tube and associated parts before the adjusters themselves. After ascertaining the iso rubber location in not at fault, here is what I would do, and did on mine. I removed the front collets and shims and hung the front of the engine on its through bolt which held the engine in place, without pushing it to one side or the other so the powertrain is free to slide to its own position along that bolt. I removed the headsteady, back wheel and shocks. I tightened the rear isolastic so that it had no clearance and was solid, this will now tell you if the rear iso unit is totally to blame, it will also allow you to measure the gap between the front iso main tube ends, and the inside of the frame lugs so that when you re fit the front iso components, you can ensure they fit perfectly in their gaps without pushing the front iso tube to one side or the other in order to get them in the available gap. Machine/shim or adjust so that when fitted and adjusted, they do not twist the powertrain to one side or the other. But first, the rear iso with the front just held in place by the through bolt. I now lifted the swinging arm up wards to see that the lower shock mounting points where in line with the top shock mounting points on the frame. Mine where maybe an eight of an inch to one side so that the rear shocks were leaning, I therefore inserted suitable washer between the rear Isolastic frame lug, and the adjuster so that it pulled the whole power train into its central position so that the shock absorber lugs lined up. I would then measure your gaps at the front iso whilst the rear one is still solid, when you have made a note of these for later, no0w try and adjust the rear one and see if your problem remains, I would have though that with the rear iso being on a vernier that you adjust on one side, as you unscrew this, it should naturally release the pressure from the other side. On mine I do have a vernier type on the back, but I have the standard shims on the front as these are easier to swap around in order to not push the front over to one side as this is what causes vibration on most bikes and causes the PTFE washers to wear to a wedge shape, as each iso unit must be perfectly parallel and in line with each other. I tried the Dave Taylor headsteady but found it gave no improvement over the Norvil type but did increase vibration which is why in the video I went back to the Norvil unit.

@@petercharlton515 The Hemmings adjuster is a simpler type than the OEM vernier. Just two parts, an adjustment collar, internally threaded and a short externally threaded spacer tube. Rubbers are the original bushings for pre-Mark III bikes. One advantage of the Hemmings setup is it can be adjusted without needing to slacken the through bolt/stud since the adjuster collar does not take the clamping loads from the bolt/stud torque. One thing your advice made me realize...when I have been measuring the gaps, the bike is on the centerstand and on a sloped garage floor. Not sure if that contributes to the off-centerline issue I seem to have. Thinking weight of frame/back of bike may be leaning away from right side of rear iso mount, taking up all the gap at adjuster unless I pry frame towards the right. Will try to find a flat place to re-measure things or turn bike around 180 degrees and re-measure....should make the problem move to opposite side of the iso mount.

@@TornadoCAN99 I just looked at a picture of the Hemmings set up, so the two smaller externally threaded parts, does one end fit against the frame lug, and the other fits against the internal bonded tubeing of the Isolastic rubbers that the bolt passes through? In which case, I do think the position of the rubbers to the main isolastic tube is critical. I would now suggest removing the rear wheel and the shocks in order to assertain the powertrain is in its proper position so the shock lugs match up, you can unscrew the Hemmings large adjusters so that whilst in position, they do not actually affect anything, you should see a gap on both sides of each adjuster to shop they are not affecting the position of the gearbox cradle. Then you need to somehow slide the gearbox cradle along the internal rubbers so that your swinging arm lugs line up, then tighten both adjusters completely to check the front and top as I suggested before. When you then do the isolastic adjustment, ensure you adjust each side by the same amount so that you dont affect the now centralised power train. As for your checking it on the mainstand, not sure this would be the cause of your vibration when riding it though.

@@petercharlton515 To be clear, there is only one Hemmings adjuster per ISO mount, not one on each end of the cradle tube. The OEM spacers/abutment is still in place on the other end. " does one end fit against the frame lug, and the other fits against the internal bonded tubeing of the Isolastic rubbers that the bolt passes through?" Yes, that is correct. The threaded stub tube fits between the internal bonded tubing and the frame lug, with the stud passing through it all. The adjuster then threads inward or outward along the stub to adjust the gap to the cradle tube. Will make some checks to see if issue can be identified.

Hi Damian, I'm afraid I really don.t know. I only ever replaced mine both times I did such a thing, at the same time I was replacing or having the frame painted. At a guess I would imagine that if you removed the exhausts, the back wheel, maybe the back mudguard, the front isolastic and the top Isolastic, that upon removing the rear Iso bolt, the whole engine assembly still in the cradle would have space to come forward or twist forward enough to give access, maybe the battery carrier and oil tank would also need to come off. Obviously use some blankets etc to prevent the engine scratching the frame.If you are on Facebook, join the Norton Commando group and ask there.

@Peter Charlton cheers Peter , I'm Not too fussed about scratches as the bike has its fair share of wear and tear, I bought it as a non runner/project so while the head is away being reconditioned I thought I'd look at the Isolasatics, both are knackered so need doing , it's going back together in mechanically refurbished state, I want to see if I actually like the thing before blowing a fortune making it look shiny and pretty, did that before with an A65 and hated it .

@@damiantuttle1348 With the head off, I would guess there will be a ton of room to pivot the engine forward enough to get at the rear Isolastics, I forgot to say you need to remove the shocks as well. A good Commando is maybe the best bike in the world, Keanu Reeves could have any bike he wanted and you will always see him on one of his Commandos.

you don't need to remove the engine and gearbox to replace front and rear isolastics, I recently did mine successfully, there is info on it online, I changed mine to vernier at the same time.

Occasionally, when it initially starts to spin. Please note however, that I now do not recommend anybody to buy a Bluetti product, after just four months, it has a tendency to self discharge all the way down to 0% overnight. When I contacted Bluetti, I was told this is "Normal", which hardly seems ideal for a battery!, then that it was "coincidental", now it seems I get no response at all. I am finding reports elsewhere that the Bluetti do not in any way honour their warranty commitment.

@@petercharlton515 no way mine does the same thing! I am currently speaking to support about me. I updated the BMS yesterday. Waiting to see if it works.

@@liamhenning When you say yours does the same thing, are you saying you turn it off at night with maybe a 90% charge, wake up in the morning, turn it on, and find its empty? In which case, feel free to tell Joanna my name and so it is a problem with them. What is "updating the BMS"? I had tried charging it up from the mains all the way from 0 to 100 % and letting it stand overnight, but that didnt work. Now let me tell you what I am trying now, I understand the cold and condensation might be causing problems with these new types of batteries, so today I stuck an 8 w reptile heating pad to the bottom and put a towel over the whole lot to keep it warmish and dry, my flat is quite cold at 6 degrees last night so ask me again in a few days if this has worked if you like?

@@petercharlton515 yea exactly that. It doesn’t happen every time but it seems to have only started happening now it’s got colder. The BMS is what controls the charging of the battery. So it’s possible that a BMS firmware update might fix it. What support have Bluetti offered you?

@@liamhenning My battery charges OK, its just that it has developed this tendency to not store the charge. Apart from the fob offs from China where they claimed this was "Normal", all Blueitti UK have done is given me a single suggestion to try. Anyway, this morning with my 8 watt heater pad affixed to the bottom, I awoke to find I only lost about 2% overnight which would have been used to run the pad and the fan which still feels the need to keep coming on annoyingly even when its only using 8 watts, so I will plug the heater pad into the mains tonight.

Whilst I wouldn't go that far, I must admit, I have refitted my Norvil Isolastic type headsteady. This one offered no improvement in handling, but did transmit more vibration, possibly because a rose joint moves in an arc, and I run my Isolastics with very little clearance.

Thanks Pedro, this used to be a very stiff clutch until I sorted the stack height!

@@petercharlton515 we are also chatting on FB :) It's a small world these days hey ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ke7C5Ho0hBk.html

Same direction the engine crankshaft turns when in normal use.